I'm a newbie mechanic. All I've done myself at this point is oil and oxygen sensors. But my front pads started making the I-need-to-be-changed noise, so I decided to do this myself this time around as I have the time to do so.


I'm driving a stock, non-ABS 98 MaximaSE, with just over 100k miles on the clock now. Regarding driving style, I am not really a spirited driver. Actually, I'm the kind of guy who lets off the gas when I see a red light in the distance, and try to time it so I get there when the light is green again so I don't have to brake. Braking = Fuel burn required to reaccelerate = Lost money. That said, with the hot ambient temperatures we get in the south paired with city driving, I have gotten noticeable fading at times, and I've had enough emergency braking situations that I'm picky about tire purchases and unsurprisingly don't want to chintz out on brakes either.


So that's the intro. Here's the questions:

Brake Pads
I'm leaning towards the the "Akebono Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc" from AdvancedAuto because they have a 3-year warranty. Good idea? The idea of getting free pads if these wear out withing 3 years sounds very attractive to me indeed.

I've also read up and eyed other pads, e.g. the EBC Redstuff from buybrakes.com based on a recommendation I came across from one member here. But that 3-year AdvancedAuto is really attractive to me. Thoughts?


Master Cylinder
ajm8127 posted here to make sure sufficient hydraulic pressure is made for good braking. I'm pretty sure mine's just fine, but how would I go about testing it? Simply putting it through "on the job" testing? I only see replacement info in my Haynes manual.


Stainless Steel Brake Lines -- yea or nay?
Venerable Nealoc187 says "absolutely no need for SS lines if you are not running the car on a track". New guy foamerdave says "A nice upgrade for any car is SS brake lines makes a huge improvement in peadel feel". Thoughts?


Rotors
A trusted mechanic the 2nd to last time I got replacement brake pads mentioned that if I had waited any longer they would have had to replace the rotors, but because I brought it in just in time they only needed to lathe turn them. Does this make sense? No comment was made the last time I brought it there though.

Is it really that important to check for disk runout (which is checking for warping essentially, correct?) if no pulsating has been noticed during braking?

What sandpaper grit is recommended for de-galzing the disc surface? I don't have a micrometer though (though I would like to change that. Let me know if you got a micrometer recommendation), so should I just bring the rotors by the mechanic (assuming they will agree to it) and have them lathe turn them and see what they have to say on whether or not the rotors are still in spec or not in spec?

If I have to get replacement rotors, I'm considering the non-slotted, non-drilled "Frozen Rotors" from frozenrotors.com. Good choice, or overkill for me? $100 each doesn't sound all that bad, but while I want a proper, no-cut-corners brake setup, it all does add up, and I want to be as frugal as I reasonably can as my income is far from stellar at the moment.


Caliper Pins
karguy mentioned here to check the caliper pins for wear. My Haynes manual mentions to check for "scoring and corrosion" ... but I have no idea what's normal and what's not. I'll snap a pic and post it here to see what you guys think.


Supplies
Actually, I'm just going to quote karguy from the above thread, albeit let me clarify I'm doing my front pads, not my rear ones at this time:
The only car-related supplies I current have is PB Blaster and Permatex anti-seize, so I'll need to pick up the following:

• Synthetic High Temp Grease -- How is this different than anti-seize? Recommendations? Maybe Permatex Brake Lube?
• CRC Anti Squeal
• Aerosol Brake Cleaner -- Recommendations or are they all equally good?

Is a torque wrench required to do the job right, or is careful observation of present tightness sufficient? I'd rather not spend the money, but if I need to, I will. The only other tools I seem to need is wrenches and a c-clamp, both of which I have as I'm sure most do.


Brake Fluid
Norm Peterson mentioned the following hereI assume this is something I should implement even though my car lacks ABS, correct?

Should I go ahead and replace my brake fluid? If yes, is it important that I do it the same time I do my brakes? I'd rather not bite off too much for my first time.


Bed-In
I plan on following the info here and here


Thanks guys. I really appreciate it.

 

Tires are the biggest part of braking.
Proper beading is important for smooth stops.
Good pads only come into play with repeated braking. Most of the time you sacrifice initial bite with fade resistance / longevity.


Brake Pads
IMHO, unless you stay ontop of your PMCS, the 'longer lasting' pads would be pointless. IF you do, make sure your calipers are in top shape. I spend about $100 for my daily driver. Can't remember what pads you were suggesting??

Master Cylinder
This is kind of a subjective issue. Really, if you have to work at stopping the car, there is an issue. Most go quickly; stock is MORE than enough if operational.


Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Not really needed. I hear a lot about them but you will not be able to tell a difference unless your lines were bad before installing. I agree for specific applications they are warranted.


Rotors
If you let your pads wear down to metal it will quickly 'destroy' your rotor. Many rotors have less than favorable mass for regrind opportunity so watch for that.

Yes and no; the more mass, the less fade.

If the rotor is truly glazed, I would have them turned. That is me...

There is no reason for slotted or drilled rotors. This is a very commonly misunderstood issue. At the risk of being jumped on, drilled - pointless, slotted auto-x at best.

$100/ is way high; if replacing to OEM spec I would expect to pay less than half that. Lack of pmcs or excessive/incorrect use would modify that price point....


Caliper Pins (main pins / guide pins / slide pins)
Another overrated 'problem' imo. If there is side or uneven wear, yes replace them. That said there will always be wear marks... always. Your caliper would have to be binding on the torque bracket for replacement to be needed (few exceptions). Make sure it is high-temp grease not just your average axle grease.


Supplies
brake cleaner for accidental/necessary rotor and part cleaning.
proper grease
14mm and 19mm box end
large C clamp
flat blade screw driver
wire brush
antiseize is fine / wd40 / whatever
(make sure the dust boots are in good condition)


Brake Fluid
It is best to use new fluid. You can go overboard really quick with 'quality fluid'. You might as well change it at the same time. There is no sense in 'clogging' or 'contaminating' newly installed parts. (To add it is the easiest time to do it.)


Bed-In
lol @ the 400-500 miles -this is a generality. The hawk section has it closest. You are wanting to put the rotor and pads through heat cycles without overheating. Proper lapping temps are important to attain without stopping and 'spotting' the rotor. Almost all brake issues are from lazy people not beading their brakes. (The part about the e-brake only applies if you are beading rear brakes.)

Hope I am not forgetting anything. Got to get back to work for pass-down.

 

I just got a fresh set, so I'm good on that front.

Roger that.

I'm looking at the "Akebono Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc" pads from AdvancedAuto as a good balance between initlal bite and fade resistance, for me, but really it's that warranty that is particularly attractive.

Anyone utilize AdvancedAuto's brake pad warranty? The idea of getting new pads for free if I wear these out within the 3-year warranty is quite attractive.


Did you mean to say "unless you [DON'T] stay ontop of your PMCS, the 'longer lasting' pads would be pointless." i.e. staying on top of PMCS means you can get away with not quite so long lasting pads?

$100 - for how many pads. What pads are you using? Just curious. As far as the pads I'm considering, it's pads available form AdvancedAuto due to their warranty .... but I'm not sure if their warranty is utilized by any here or if for some reason it is not. I like the idea of free pads.


Right, not planning on slotted nor drilled. I'm considering the non-slotted, non-drilled "Frozen Rotors" from frozenrotors.com. Just not sure if that's a good choice, or overkill for not-really-performance-oriented me.

Any recommended OE rotors? Wagner Brake Rotors locally are about $32 each, but I know some Wagner products are good and some are rubbish. Maybe ponying up the $45-50 each for the Brembo or perhaps Beck Arnley rotors here would be a better route? I go to do research partsgeek.com as a vendor though. drivewire is another vendor I need to look into as well.



I'll check and see if my rotors look glazed this the rotor pictured here.


OK will do.

I came across this interactive site that mentions that and other points:
http://www.morseauto.com/brakejob.html


I read up on anti squeal on this thread and a bit elsewhere as well, and I just decided to just use syn high temp grease.



I took a look at caliper pin dust boot prices, and I was amazed. Astounded actually. They're $19 from AdvancedAuto and $2.50 from AutoZone. Maybe the AutoZone ones are rubbish. 1year warranty from AA. 3mo from AZ.

I guess I've give Valvoline's 3&4 brake fluid a go then.

I can across this comment when looking up the anti-squeal bit:
If the ten stops were done in a row without any cool down, then the procedure will work for many performance pads from Porterfield, Hawk, PBR/Axxis, etc.

However, it is not the correct method for OE replacement pads from Raybestos, Akebono, Wagner, etc:

(source)


Thanks for your sage counsel adroitcaptor. I appreciate it.

 

This thread = perfect.

 

^^^^^ Agreed

 

Rotors
I hit the search function here some more. Frozen rotors were mentioned here. Apparently the jury is still out on whether they are any better, so certainly not worth the additonal expenditure if this is indeed true..

My rotors are glazed like a doughnut, so a rotor purchase is go. Brembo and EBC seemed to be the recommended rotors choices from what I gleaned via search, with Centric getting some respect as well. I decided to save a bit over the EBCs and go the Brembo route.


Brake Pads
Upon looking into it further, apparently normal wear is indeed still covered under AdvAuto's and AutoZn's brake pad warranties. So financially it's a really attractive route to take, but toleration of rather anaemic braking would be the catch. I'm tempted to pinch my pennies elsewhere and just spring for EBC Redstuff pads.

 

If you are not hard on your brakes like you say,a good quality brake pad and new rotors are in order.IF you are experiencing brake fade it has less to do with friction and more to do with hydraulics,specifically brake fluid condition.I recommend a thorough flush of the brake system,make sure your caliper pins and sliders are free and well lubed,slap pads and rotors on and drive.

 

Seriously, why cant all noobs be this good? Noob of the year award goes to...............DanMaxima....Enjoy your stay here

 

Thanks guys. The real credit goes to guys like adroitcaptor who can answer questions though.


Brembo MFR# Confusion
Concerning Brembo rotors, I'm a confused on what the difference is between manf# W0133-1621755 and manf# 25314. They appear to be the same thing, but obviously they are different enough for the manf. to issue them different part numbers. Any insight on this?


Brake Pads
I read up on the EBC RedStuff a little more and here an apparent EBC rep stated they may squeal up to the 1,000 mile mark. That's an annoyance factor to consider.