So i replaced both front struts and the passenger cv axle and went to get a front end alignment. Ole buddy came from the back and said that it couldn't happen because "somethin bent" he said it could be a control arm or the frame.

I'm gonna bet it's not the frame cause this thing has never been wrecked, but how easy is it to "bend" a control arm.

i'll post pics of the shops print off in a min.

 

Show us the specs and we'll try and give you an idea on what may be out of wack. The control arm will bend before the frame gets damaged. How easy is it to bend one? Short answer - not very...

 

And here's the results

 

When you changed the strut, on the top mounting is a plate with 3 studs, called the "strut mounting insulator bracket" that holds the strut in the tower. This plate has an arrow on it indicating the proper installation direction. Maybe you didn't get this correct on the left side.

 

The clocking of the upper spring perch wouldn't cause the alignment to be off like that.
It's not an arrow but rather the word OUT stamped on top of it. The word OUT should face out or be in line with the struts lower mounting flange.

I'd start by replacing the control arm, especially being caster is off too.

 

what i don't understand is how the control arm could be bent in the 6 mi trip to the shop because everything was fine before i replaced the struts.

 

and i will definitely look into this clocking... are you absolutely sure that couldn't be the cause of it being out of alignment

i love this pulling hard to the left thing

 

Yes, I'm sure. You can put some negative camber into it by loosening the lower strut bolts and pushing inward on top of the rotor when you tighten it back up. That's going to bring you L.F. toe inwards a bit and also bring the camber a bit closer. It's not going to fix the caster issue. If it's not pulling so hard after you do that, bring it back to see how it's tracking.

 

Fully agree with njmaxseltd.
Here is some thought. People think that they have to do alignment after changing the struts, but this is waste of money. The only thing you are getting out of alignment during strut change is the camber, which is not fixed by the alignment people - they pretty much only work on the toe. I also had my car pulling to one side after I changed the struts and I fixed it by adjusting the camber. So this is what you have to do:
1. Loosen the left wheel's 2 bolts that connect the strut tower to the steering knuckle.
2. Lock the steering wheel.
3. Push as hard as possible the wheel as it is turning right (inward). Tighten the bolts/nuts on the strut tower. Pushing the front of the wheel inwards changes the camber - you will see it by looking at the 2 bolts/nuts of the tower. The same way if you want to create positive camber point the wheel outwards. You can achieve the negative camber also by pushing the top of the wheel inward and pulling the bottom outward.
The car pulls to the wheel with the bigger (more positive) camber.

 

Not true with our setup.

You can never get the knuckle in the same exact spot as it was with the old strut. When that position changes, so does your toe on the A32. Brandons issue is a perfect examle.
For example, if you push the top inwards for more negative camber you're also going to push more toe in. (steering linkage is on the rear of the knuckle) The opposite happens when you pull for more positive camber, you get more toe out.

You may be close, you might luck out and be right on. But for $60 bucks, it's very much a wise idea to have it checked/adjusted as necessary.