Hey guys i want to do a paint job not now but in the summer is there any tips on doing a paint job with IS300 blue paint for ex.

want to know what kind of sand paper should i use?
i know u have to use primer
useing the overlap technic
same with paint with 2 or 3 coats of paint
any other tips oh and how much for a V1 or V2 supercharger hehe
thanks guys hit me up with a reply

 

Have you done this before??

THings you need:

Paint Brush
Water
Stensils
Sand Paper
$11,000 when you find out WTF you did

 

puff puff.. give give.. c'mon man.. you holding the blunt too long

 

in case you didn't figure it out from gtr and sprint's replies, you will NOT be able to do this yourself. Ever. Don't even think about it. Unless you have prior experience and all the right gear you will have a very, very hard time with this project. Take it to a shop you trust. Expect to spend a lot of money. 1500-3000 for paint and materials, 2000-3000 for labor and prob. more stuff I don't know about.

 

Ditto what all the others said. Seriously, man. A paintjob is not a 1st time do-it yourself project. You will spend more $ trying to undo whatever mess you create attempting this if you've never done it before.

If you're looking for the ultimate sleeper though, ***** it: install the supercharger then mask everything off, get about 20 cans of flat-black stove paint & go to town. No one will ever imagine you'd walk 'em from a light with a look like that. Go Mad Max!

 

buy a salvage title 95 auto for $2500, spend $5000 to get JWT to turbo your car, spend a grand or two on an upgraded tranny, VB and high-stall TC, paint it flat jet black, put hood scoop on it and go cruisin...










24/7...

 

Also check the "4th gen FAQs" thread up top for more links about painting the entire car.

 

I took body shop when I was in California, if you want to do this and your still in college see if they offer body shop and you can do it there they have all the equipment you need, and have you ever visited any body shop?, well the good body shops have rooms where all the air is being sucked out to prevent any type of particles touching your paint while is being sprayed etc.... theres more to that room but I forgot is being a while... and when Nissan painted my car they had a $60,000 baking room, I mean I am sure you can do without it but it can be done if you have the fascilities or you have someone with experience willing to walk you thru it.

 

Here's the thing, it's relatively easy to prep your car. Sand it down, primer it, fix the dents, etc. But spraying the car is an art form and takes years of practice. I know a lot of people in body shop school who can prep and primer a car really well, but haven't learned to spray well yet. It's not like spray paint. There are different paint nozzles, different pressures, etc. You have to know how fast to sweep the paint across the car, how far away to hold the nozzle, and a lot of other things. If you don't, the car is going to look terrible. My friend's shop painted my car, and he explained how much time it took to learn how to paint.

I would say you're better off finding a friend who knows how to do bodywork, and the two of you prepping your car. Then just find a shop willing to spray it. That alone will save you a lot of money.

 

Shadow's max looks AMAZING

 

I wonder if you might be being a little bit hard on the feller...

I did a complete respray on my Ford Bronco from two tone (rust over metallic blue) to black. After fixing the rust with new metalwork I hung plastic tarps in my workshop to make a spray booth and painted the whole thing in 6 hours. I used tons of laquer rattle-cans of primer while getting the surfaces flat - too 3 months of 10 hours a week to get it mirror-flat to 800grit all over (something you don't have to do if it's a colour change on a car with existing good paint). Then in one day I shot 3 coats of primer/sealer, 3 coats of colour and 2 coats of clear.

This was all accomplished in workshop the size of a 3-car garage, but could be done in a 2-car garage that you commandeer. I made up a crossflow paint booth by running the window a/c (for humidity and dust contol) in one end of the booth, and two window fans blowing the air out the door.

My lessons learned;

- Clearcoat is thinner than Ally McBeal, and runs like Ben Johnson if you go to heavy

- Don't turn off the air crossflow until the thing had dried for at least 24 hours. I got specks of dust on the panels after I painted, just from turning the air off.

- Gotta use the right tools - 5hp 20 Gal compressor with water filter, pressure guage at the gun and siphon gun.

- My 6 months of reserching paint systems paid off. other than the dust specks the paint looks gorgeous. I had to wait 3mo before I started trying to fix the dust, and now it's winter. It's gonna get another coat of black and 2 clear after I've flattened the dust specks.

It IS possible for a first-timer, but understand what you are getting yourself into - this is difficult stuff with precise procedures.

If you think you can get a factory-quality metallic paint job from rattlecans in your driveway with no elbow-grease, then pay a bodyshop.

 

that's what I read his post as. well, in honor of newbies (ones that are not as intelligent, well-versed and respectfull as you) I changed my sig. enjoy

 

If the guy does this much by himself it will trim maybe a grand or so off. It is the labor that gets you. At something like 50 bucks an hour it totals up fast.

SuDZ

 

Actually most good paint shops will NOT want you to acutally primer the car or even sand it. If you do, the shop will NOT guarantee how the finish will end up or if the new paint will even stick. They can only warranty their own work so since their work would be so very dependant on what they guy did in the prepping, it's understandable.
For even sanding, some shops say "no". Becuase if you don't properly degrease the car or get all the silicone based wax(if that is what he has been using), sanding will just grind all that stuff in. This makes degreasing the car much harder. Probably the most he could probably do himself is take off the trim, emblems etc...

 

So basicly nothing then.

SuDZ

 

No it's something. Anything helps. Headlights, corner lights, trim, badging etc... might save a few hours in prep time.

 

i worked in a body shop for 2 summers and the prep work is just as important as the paint itself, and is very time consuming. i agree if you do the prep work most good shops wont garuntee it. if your not worried bout how it comes out do it yourself. if you really want your max to look good just pay to have it all done right

 

I meant really after considering how much you would save if you prepped the whole car yourself.

SuDZ

 

That's just it. You wouldn't save anything unless you are willing to give up any type of recourse if the finish doesn't pan out.

 

You do it. Sand it down and paint it yourself. That way Clee can make a new sticky - "After you see this you will never paint again."
-Cyrus

 

It's true most shops won't warranty it. But you should see how bad most shops warranties are usually anyways. They will use every excuse to wiggle out of it. I'm not saying do it yourself if you don't know how. But if you have a friend who knows his bodywork, and plenty of people do, then you can save money that way. Of course every shop will want to final wash the car, and make sure the sanding is correct before painting it. But if you did a good job, you will save money.

 

I agree. A paint job is only as good as a the bodywork underneath it. I worked in the paint shop and we were always harassing the body guys for bad work - it made our finished product look crappy. Plus another thing to remember is if you mix paint systems - such as using primer or sealer from one company and paint from another there can be unfortunate consequences. I'd say the best way to save money is to have the bodywork done and primered and if you know somebody at a bodyshop maybe they'll let you remove the trim, lights etc. and let you mask the car. But there is a right way and a wrong way to mask a car too so...

 

"i know u have to use primer"

Only on the parts that have had bodywork. Actually, on a perfect car (say just a car with faded paint) no primer is needed. What happens is the painted surface of the car is scuffed down with a scotchbright pad (or something similar), so it has a rough surface for the new paint to adhere to. So only the areas that you fixed with filler or took down to the metal will need primer - not the whole car.

 

Actually I think you should primer the whole car. Especially if the base color is alot darker than the topcoat or if the oem color is red. Primers not only serve to help the topcoats stick but also give the car an uniform color start out with. If the topcoat is a light color, it increases the chance for an uneven finish. Also catalyzed primers help seal and will make the topcoat stick better than just spraying it ontop of the sanded oem paint.

You can get away with your method for maybe older cars or maybe cheaper jobs but to get the paint back up to the level of maybe a maxima, you should not skip the primer stage.

Also, in the paint industry, you get what you pay for(already said many times) If you pay $1000 for a repaint, don't expect a finish to rival a Porsche or Mercedes. So cheap out on a paint job, expect a cheap paint job.