1995 swapped GXE, 5 speed, act clutch and fidanza flywheel. Drives fine until it warms up (granted it has been 98 deg here for a week now) then won't shift. I checked the slave cylinder engagement and it seems to be extending and retracting fine. Any ideas?

 

Won't shift at all? How about getting into neutral? Grinds going into anther gear, or just wont go into another gear? Need more info.

 

starts grinding and gradually gets more difficult until i cannot force any gear. I'm running ss lines too fwiw.

 

What gear oil? How old? Have you checked the level? Can you shift into gear with the engine off?

 

Red Line, 10K or so old, level is good. Can shift with engine off.

 

any pressure in the clutch pedal? any missing fluid? its prolly the slave cylinder.

 

Not hyd sys, it shifts with eng off

 

hyd system wont matter when the car is off it will shift through the gears with the car off with out pushin the clutch in

 

Can you make a video if the slave extending and retracting fine? I can tell you by eye if it's not going in/out all of the way, and what color is the fluid in your reservoir?

Also just because your gear oil is under 12k, you're suppose to change it every 6 months either way.

 

Sounds like either your master cylinder / slave cylinder, or a problem w/ your pressure plate. How's the clutch pedal feel when the engine is cold vs warmed up (more resistance, same, or less)? Can you push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when you have the problem?

 

i had a very simaliar problem in my 95 geo prism i replaced the clutch master cly and drained and changed gear fluid i used 85-90 weight ... i dont kno which fixed it but a few months after i keep having to bleed it by the slave sly ... so it could be any of the three ... :/

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYb0UGKo05I

Pressure plate feels the same either way. What has me concerned is the fact that it drives fine for the first 10-15 minutes, then starts acting up. I can switch the car off, put it in first gear, turn it back on but then it won't shift into any more gears.

 

ima tell u right now man...i dont trust aftermarket clutch either. U got an ACT but u prolly the 3rd or 4th person on the orge i hrd with clutch issues.

Its not a complicated system...if the slave and master good and lines not leakin then its something with the clutch/pressure plate itself. something not causing the clutch to disengage. Might have to tear into it

 

Maybe you should check the movement of your slave when the problem is occuring... And what color is your fluid btw??

 

have u bled the system in the video i see fluid on the bellhouseing and the slave just wonderin if u have a leak or if u have bled it

maybe the fluid has been cooked and is no longer any good when it gets hot

 

I bled it, that's where the fluid came from. I may have to tear into it. I was never 100% comfy with 6 puck for dd.

My fluid is **** colored, cheap advance dot 3.

Are there better hyd fluids I could try, maybe this cheap fluid is not qaulified for extreme southern heat????

 

I agree with the problem being eng/disengage of clutch plate, but the thermal factor can't be ignored. I bet I could drive in Alaska with no issues

 

Dot 3 should be good. or else everyone on the org from the south would have issues.

gotta open it up and see whats going on.

 

how long ago was the swap done? (was everything new: clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing) is the clutch fork the right kind? throw out bearing as well? when it starts acting up, do you see the slave move the fork? can you get it into neutral?
give us a more thorough story, man.

 

Everytime I see this thread I think the same thing.
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synchros

 

How many miles were on the tranny?

Start in gear on level ground, clutch to the floor. Keep clutch down and release the break. Does the car move, like the clutch is dragging? Try again in reverse to rule out incline.

Generally heat will cause a clutch to slip, so I dont think its the PP, disk, or FW.

 

I'm thinking gear oil personally.

 

i think im with you on that note

 

Seems like a much better idea than tearing into it, what gear oil do y'all recommend?

 

GL-4
sta-lube from napa, or red line.

NOT GL4/5/6 IT DOES NOT WORK

 

Currently has redline right now, I'm guessing there are different weight/viscosity for different climates?

 

Gear box has 165k, swap was done 12K miles ago. New ACT clutch, pressure plate. At this time a new fidanza flywheel was also added. I'm going to try changing the fluid first, as this seems much easier.

I thought gear oil was good for 30-50K? idk

 

i have the same problem!!! I also have a act clutch and a fidanza flywheel. but it only happens for third gear to me though. When it gets hot third gear gets a little stiff to go in but it shifts fine into the rest of the gears. I started having this problem ever since i got this act clutch. And i have new slave and master cylinder with a SS clutch line too.

 

7.5k, not 12k as I said earlier or every 6 months... Well you're suppose to "Inspect" it every 7.5k miles, but with the way I drive my car I end up doing it once or twice a year for safety reasons.


Bleed your clutch lines, your slave does not move as much as the OP's

 

Yeh, I think the constant severe heat here breaks the oil down fast. Does NAPA sell AMS?

 

so in 4 days, you haven't even checked the condition of the fluid? it's been driving ok for 12k miles, and now all of a sudden won't shift. did you beat on the car?
when it starts doing this again, get a helper and tell him to engage the clutch (with teh car on, of course). verify that the clutch fork moves when he presses the pedal. there is no reason for it not to shift out of a gear (granted everything else is ok) if the throw out bearing is doing its job.

 

I travel & don't get home to often, today was the first day I drove her since Wednesday. And I know that the throwout bearing should function etc, don't you think if it was as easy as the fork working that I would be wasting everyone's time on this thread? It's only a problem during 90 + degrees after moderate city driving. When it happened last, I had someone engage the clutch and the slave moved the fork fine. I'll try changing the oil and get back

 

I'd check the clutch engagement point too - does the clutch disengage really close to the floor (closer to the floor than the stock clutch)? When cold, can you hold the clutch down about 1/2" off the floor and shift from 1st to reverse and back again without grinding?

 

Remminator...I would start with different fluid. Start with the easier and less expensive crap first. If you haven't confirmed already, when it gets super hot and start acting up, does the fork have the same movement as in the video you posted?

If that doesn't work, then I guess like others have assumed, master/slave cylinder. I'm hoping its nothing to have to do any tearing down....we know how that can be already.

 

Fork moves same bro, got the gearbox drained, waiting to get oil.

 

I would remove the fork boot and inspect components in there. Its possible that the fork is busted and doing odd things in there. #Check_that

 

The culprit was the fork. See where it cracked and severe metal fatigue at the pivot point. Replacing with all OEM, finally getting my 3.5 engine cover too. Hope she shift_ffs into gear after.

 

After further contemplation, I'm thinking the ACT pressure plate rigidity was too much for the fork in the extreme heat, especially after 16 years and 168K miles. I'm leaving the clutch alone and hoping the new fork and TO bearing will put this gripe to bed.

 

So did this work for you? I have the same exact problem. Only when its really hot and i'm stuck in traffic, I loose pressure on my clutch pedal and can shift into any gear. Then in the morning when its cold it works fine throughout the day until I hit traffic again.

 

^^You best check everything that he did. Might wanna peep and check your fork as well.^^