I always find parts dirt cheap for my Max, too! The most expensive parts I've dealt with so far were for a Subaru Outback...but at the same time, Outbacks retain their value incredibly well, too.

 

ok, i'm getting a scanner tonight from a friend and downloaded my FSM and gonna try and diagnose the problem this weekend. My question is if it is the MAF, where on those websites are MAF's located? I was trying to find them on 2 of the sites u guys gave me, but didn't know what section they are under? Cooling? Engine? What?

 

You can find a MAF on here. But on those sites, there are search bars, type in "Mass Air Flow Sensor", and it will pull up all the MAF's for your car that they sell, no need to search their site for it. I know on rockauto.com, it is under emissions, but they also have a search bar. Here is someone one here selling a tested MAF for $20. You cant beat that. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...gone-asap.html

 

Last time I needed MAF I paid 35$ for one shipped @ www.car-part.com.

Air Flow Meter.

Has lasted for many years and miles since then.

 

If you are buying from a parts store you can always hit me up first to see if your getting hosed..pm me or 208-664-4343 ask for Lonnie

i work the counter at a federated parts store and can give you over the counter and jobber pricing

also if buying from the parts store you can tell them you work for a specific shop or dealer that you know buys a lot from them and get a huge discount..just tell them at beginning of phone call i work for blah blah blah and need cash and tax price for blah blah blah for me personally

if you sound like you know what your talking about they wont even think twice about it and if you tell them at the beginning it def works better than having them look it up then say oh ya i work for so and so...that just irritates them usually

if they do say oh are you new you can just say oh i just do oil changes there or im just a lot boy if its a dealer

 

Rockauto has it under emissions, as is the vapour purge valve, another of your codes.

 

Im the man for MAF's and Coils. I think I have 2 MAF's Left? 40$ Shipped to your door.

 

If the OP is referring to OEM parts from the dealer...then yea its pretty expensive. For example, a new windshield from Nissan was 600 bucks!!!

The great thing about these cars, however, is that there is tremendous aftermarket support.

Now, im no advocate for cheapo depo parts or shortchanging the maxi...but why pay extra for somethin as common as a starter or alternator.

There are some cases where i will do OEM. And I wd EXPECT to pay OEM prices for it. OP, thats jus the way it is man.

 

Thats why we have Dave B. for OEM parts. He gives us discounts.

 

I found a brand new MAF on ebay for $49 shipped to my door, is that $40 for both or $40 each?

 

ok, just did the code reader and it pulled up thse 3 codes:
1st code: P0446
2nd code: P0100
3rd code: P0446

now time to do my research on see what the problem is

 

MAF is a VERY sensetive part. things like MAF and coilpacks are better bought OEM used than aftermarket new. if you do buy it new on ebay, make sure it is a good brand

 

I bought an OEM used one for $30 on ebay about 2yrs ago, and have had no problems at all.

 

i honestly think its your tps caused same syproms in my old max heres the testing procedures you have to use a multimeter set to Ohms and connect the MM leads to the sensor and you have to move the sensor slowly and watch the resistance value change.

the reason why you have to do a slow sweep is because you are looking for a break in resistance.

if you hve the MM connected and you do a slow sweep of the sensor and the readout doesn't change, then your sensor is ok


if you see the resistance move then go out, your sensor is bad if this doesnt resolve it or if you have more questions pm me

 

your third code is the same as your first code

 

question? Isn't the MAF come with the MAF sensor built into it? WHen it I took if off the car, it looked like it was inside it? So do I need an entire MAF or just a MAF sensor? Doesn't the MAF come with the MAF sensor when U buy it?

 

The MAF comes with the sensor in it. MAF=Mass air flow sensor.

$40 classifieds>$450 new

 

now i'm even more confused, because I emailed a guy on here that said he had a MAF sensor and asked him if it's the MAF assembly, and he said, no, it's just the MAF sensor? What the heck. Please help me understand. This comes with a MAF sensor in it, I think, right? Here's what I found On ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

yes, but I wouldnt trust an EBAY MAF. just get a $40 one from the classifieds

 

I will if I can find one like that on here. Everyone I PM'd on here so far said, it's not the MAF, just the sensor, which confuses me even more? I need a MAF with the sensor in it, right?

 

You must not be contacting the right people. PM me if you want any parts.

 

It is usually worth trying to clean the MAF first before replacing it, Autozone, etc. sell a MAF-specific cleaner that does a great job. That said, I ended up replacing mine with a used one I bought on EBAY for $35. Good Luck.

 

Dude, u are getting too confused. MAF is jus the abbreviated form. THe correct term is the Mass air flow sensor. When we say MAF, we are referring to the mass air flow sensor.

The MAF is one part or jus one sensor.

 

The MAF is one complete unit for the 4th gen. the sensor and the tubing are one solid unit.

 

 

thanks for all your help guys! I really do appreciate it. I sent the money to a guy in our forum today, so hopefully i'll read some tutorials and figure out how to install it myself and instead of the $800($572 for the part and $200+)for the labor I was quoted by my local "christian Brothers Automative(which charging that much isn't a very CHristian thing to do)hopefully i'll get this problem knocked in a week or less and get my max back to running smoothly again like It has been for over 5 years

 

$200 for labor HOLY ****. It takes maybe 10 minutes to change. Recommend to never step foot or call that shop again

 

I 100% agree. The crazy thing is they are recommended #1 on "Angie's List" which is a website that promotes honest mechanics and good experiences.

 

scott heres the deal u unplug the wiring harness from maf flat head screw driver or 8 mm socket on the hose clamp then 10 mm on the bolts on the maf remove install new if u need step by step text me u have my number and i can help make sure after u install new maf u earse old codes out of the ecu

 

Sounds like you have lots of good guidance on the MAF.

P0446 is the EVAP Cannister Vent Control Valve. It is on the EVAP cannister, which is under the car just behind the driver's side rear wheel. There are two hoses on the valve; and two bolts that hold the valve to the cannister. First thing to do is to pull it off and try to clean it out, as it can get gummed up and then fail to close. The valve asembly can be cleaned thru the port that sticks into the cannister and the hose ports; carb cleaner is fine to use. Search for threads on the this forum for more details. There are also a couple of related parts with hoses and connectors on the bracket in front of the cannister and these can also be causing your code - if cleaning the valve doesn't work look at these. In my case, the "vacuum cut valve" actually had a broken vacuum port - replacing that piece cleared my code. These are good junkyard parts.

Good luck - let us know how things turn out.

 

But here is the thing...

Sho doesnt seem to be too mechanically inclinded. Its not a hard install by any means, BUt if he has trouble with lets say...head unit radio install, then he shd take it to a mechanic.

Again, i am reminded of the thread where the OP was trying to install a SRI and ended up taking apart the MAF to install the midpipe lol.... damn that was funny.

Ppl do strange things man.

Sho man,

if u dont feel confident about doing it, then take it to a mech or one of your friends that knows cars. Its not hard to replace the MAF, BUT if u fawk up the MAF u WILL have car problems. Do it right, do it once.

 

I just replaced my starter 2 weeks ago. I bought mine at advanced for 110 but it was 125 or so at O'Reilly's. I just looked online and that's what I found. The new ones were 280 but rebuilt with limited life warranty was around 100 to 150 everywhere I looked.

 

This is what I did when I my starter quit one day: I disassembled it and noticed that the brush assembly was warn unevenly - 2 of the brushes were eaten and 2 were a good length. Went online and bought a brush assembly for about $40 with delivery, installed it and it has been good for about 4 years now. I think you can't go cheaper than that. Basically I did my own refurbishing. If my alternator goes one day, will do the same.

 

we've replaced the evap canister valve last week with no sucess yet. But maybe when I put my new MAF on and clear all the codes from the ECU, everythign will be wipes away and driving good. I checked the hoses too on the evap canister valve, they were all fine. It was the simplest installation ever! Basically 2 bolts and some plugging back in of hose that took maybe 5 minutes tops!

 

My kinda guy

 

ok, so here's my question for the future. For something like my knock sensor that I had replaced for $450. How could I of made that a lot cheaper? Is the part not $220 or around there for a new one? ALso I looked the tutorials and where it was located and it wasn't something my Dad or I could get to with any of our tools. Should I of found a cheap place online for the part and then pay a mechanic to install it? WOuld that of been cheaper? I'm asking because I want to know how to prevent me from spending crazy amounts to get my car fixed in the future.

Thanks,
Scott

 

Scott,

about 3-4 years ago when my knock sensor went, I started looking on Ebay for one and eventually bought OEM (in the original unopened Nissan cardboard box) for about $65. I was quick to buy it and installed it myself. You can find pictures in threads here that shows you how to do it the fast way without removing the intake manifold. The only tool that I bought and was really useful was a swivel ratchet (3/8) for about $15. Took me about 30 minutes to install and it was a bit hard on my hands because of the sharp edges of the head gaskets that protrude a bit in there.

 

Here are a couple links to answer your question, and these are both Brand New OEM:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OE-Ni...#ht_2268wt_882

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GENUI...#ht_3512wt_939

I bought my knock sensor from ebay, and it came sealed in OEM Nissan packaging, and has given me no problems. Next time you must shop around. As far as changing it, the hardest part is getting to it , once you do that changing the part is not hard at all. You will need some extensions. I was able to fit my hand in there to both loosen and tighten the bolt w/o any cuts, but my hands are skinny, and I have long fingers lol. If you have fat hands/fingers, then you may want to take it to someone, or get someone w/ long & skinny hands to help you.

 

keep reading the board and educating yourself about what you drive. try changing your own oil, and other small misc. maintenance things. for the knock sensor replacement you could've found a kid to loosen/tighten the nut on the sensor with a 12mm open ended wrench or a 1/4 rathchet (if it fits in the opening). the shop, most likely, had to take the intake manifold off to get to the sensor, so the rate is not *that bad*. the part itself cost you around $100, right?
rockauto, ebay, and other online places are usually pretty good.

 

i recommend the owner of the said shop be slapped silly. I mean, if you're smart enough to open a shop and get a business going, wouldnt you be smart enough to know that one with a 13 year old car that is worth $2500 is not going to be interested in spending $800 to replace a SINGLE part? why waste both parties time and suggest the a new part over a used? wow