Car: 1997 SE Auto in Cali

P0440
New code popped up the other day - P0440. Read that it was a "jackpot" code with a lot of various causes. I recently replaced the gas cap and perhaps didn't tighten it properly. I also saw a video on how to clean the EVAP Canister Control Valve using WD-40 so I'm going to check on this part.

>>> Any other possible culprits? I read somewhere that the CEL codes can go away automatically if the problem is fixed. Should I NOT reset the codes after checking these?

P1335
Had an unusual long start the other day. It was a cold start and plugged the scanner in and it pulled a P1335 and also P1335 pending. This code has came up over and over again ever since I first got the car. Had both Crankshaft Pos Sensors replaced and harness checked. I've searched the forums and the only two causes I can see (aside from bad sensors) is the Technical Bulletin on the CPS interfereing with the Power Steering Pulley and perhaps a bad engine ground.

>>>Does anyone have a picture or can direct me to how I can check the engine ground? Someone said that it was near or in the transmission??


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-=History - Solved=-
Old code: P0136 Result - Rear o2 sensor replaced!

I pulled this code today and I did some search on the forums but I am still a bit confused.

Someone mentioned that this code refers to:

P0136
Rear, Bank 1 sensor 2 is after the cat.

And I also read on the sticky with the Troubleshoot Diag Codes that this sensor is for checking on the health of the Catalytic Converter; like if it is clogged /failed as opposed to the actual sensor going bad. So... my questions are:

1. Do I replace the sensor? The cat? Or both?
2. I looked on some parts site for the sensor. Is this the 3-wire or the 4-wire sensor?
3. I can do brakes and from looking at the oxygen sensor, it seems it is pretty simple to replace: unscrew, detach and replace. Is that it?
4. As far as changing the Cat, would I need to know how to weld?

Any help is really appreciated. Thanks.

 

- Trouble code indicates sensor, not cat. Certainly do that first.
- FSM diagram shows 4 wires (power, gnd, 2 wires to ECM).
- That's it; use anti-seize on new one. Removing old one can be a PITA.
- Normally, welding skills not required to replace cat.

 

-jack up the car and place 2 jack stands.
-PB blast the sucker.
-get a piece of wood and place it between the b-pipe and the car body to minimize bending the b-pipe. this will also somewhat hold it in place for you to unscrew.
-it is best to use an O2 socket, a ratchet and a pipe to extend from the ratchet.
-now break it loose.

 

Thanks bobflood & kel456!! Bought the part from Autozone ($85) and had the old part swapped out. Had to use the lift at my local shop because I couldn't get under the car with my stands. Was able to get this replaced there. Got a few more codes (P0440 and P1335) to resolve. Still looking through the threads to see how others have fixed it. I think the P0440 is because my gas cap wasn't completely tightened but I will check the EVAP Canister Control Valve as well. The P1335 just keeps coming back for me even after replacing the CPK sensors. I think it might be a bad engine ground or the factory TB for CPK interfereing with Power Steering Pulley.

 

for the P0440, first simply check all the hoses related to evap. someone has a pdf diagram of the evap system not to long ago on this forum to help locate all the hoses. if all the hoses are good then you will have to buy 2 parts. one part, of course, the canister and the other is valve/harness. it should run you a bit over $100. the location is behind the driver side rear wheel. it's very straightforward and you don't need to jack up the car even if you are over weight. screws should be badly rusted by now so remember to PB blast the screws.

 

After you clean EVAP stuff, clear codes and see if it comes back. I got my replacment cannister/valve/bracket at a Pull-A-Part yard for about $25.