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Coolant temperature and gauge problem?

Old 09-23-2011, 01:56 PM
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Coolant temperature and gauge problem?

Hello all, Im having problems with my Gauge cluster it seems. The temperature gauge reads High. It's at the second line at the top. But when I plugged my Scanner in the temp reads 214??? That isn't high right?? Normal is 200ish I think. It would go up to 220 then the fans bring it back to 212-214??

I also have a code P0600??? That's another issue.

Thanks
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:29 PM
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It's probably your ECTS.
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:36 PM
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The readings you got with the scanner are normal. The engine uses 2 coolant temperature sensors. One for the dash gauge and one for the ECU. The scanner shows you the one for the ECU. You could have a bad sensor that runs the dash gauge or you could have a bad gauge.

The 2 sensors are located next to each other. Follow the upper radiator hose back to where it attaches onto the engine. Go another 3 inches or so and there are the sensors. The one closest to the radiator hose has 1 wire going to it. This is the one for the dash gauge and that is all it is used for. Right behind the dash gauge sensor is the ECU temperature sensor. It has 2 wires on it.

You can take the sensor out measure the ohms. The FSM lists the ohm value for certain temperatures.
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:02 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-j9MNH8Ukpw
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:17 PM
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That's a good video. Pmohr had done a lot of good stuff for us. However, keep in mind that the video is about the ECTS that goes to the ECU.

BORQUA79 needs to check/replace the other sensor.
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:13 PM
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Ok! Thanks for the tips. Another thing is that I recently removed my Gauges to remove my reverse indiglo faces. I might have forgotten to connect the ground wire??? Now that I remember. Could that ground be the problem?
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BORQUA79
Ok! Thanks for the tips. Another thing is that I recently removed my Gauges to remove my reverse indiglo faces. I might have forgotten to connect the ground wire??? Now that I remember. Could that ground be the problem?
I doubt it. I think other things would be affected too.

Then I remembered about a self diagnostic for the dashboard gauges, so I dug through the FSM and found it. What it will do is make the needles of the gauges (gas, speedo, tach and temp) point to a certain spot. maybe about halfway. There is a drawing showing the exact position.

Anyway, the disgnostic proceedure starts on page 72 of the EL section in the 1998 FSM, page 73 in the 1999 manual.

If you need a manual, here's 2 places that you can download from:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan or http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file, the starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file.
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Old 09-25-2011, 01:11 AM
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First, check the voltage on the harness to the wires on the sensors. Than check the sensors itself,than check the conditions of the wires for burnt or frayed wires or shorted wires. If the voltage test good and the wires are good and the voltage to the ecu is good than the ects has to be replaced. check the fuse if there's any.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:42 AM
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The ECTS has nothing to do with the temperature gauge in the dash. The op's problem is either the temperature sensor that sits right next to the ECTS or the gauge itself.

Nissan has not done a very good job of documenting this sensor, part # 25080-89907. Depending on where you find it in the documentation (and that's not an easy task), it is called the "thermal transmitter", the "coolant temperature sending unit" or the "sensor-temperature".
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:04 PM
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Update: I ran a diagnosis of the gauges as the manual says. And according to that the gauges are working but the fuel gauge seems to not be in the right place. I thought that the fuel gauge would reset it self but when I read the instructions for the reverse indiglo gauges I had, It said to keep note of where the fuel needle is.

I will start trouble shooting the sensors when I have a chance, but first I have to get behind the gauges and connect that ground wire...

A big THANKS!! to Dennis for the manuals and info... Thanks
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BORQUA79
Update: I ran a diagnosis of the gauges as the manual says. And according to that the gauges are working but the fuel gauge seems to not be in the right place. I thought that the fuel gauge would reset it self but when I read the instructions for the reverse indiglo gauges I had, It said to keep note of where the fuel needle is.

I will start trouble shooting the sensors when I have a chance, but first I have to get behind the gauges and connect that ground wire...

A big THANKS!! to Dennis for the manuals and info... Thanks
You're welcome.

And one last tidbit I remembered. There have been several posts here on the org where people have found that the wire connection on the engine sensor was loose and/or corroded. That would sure be an easy fix.
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:34 PM
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i have a 97 nissan maxima manual trans and my radiator keeps going almost empty every other day, i swear to you a cant find a single leak or finf coolant in the oil for that matter, where the hell is my coolant going?
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:37 PM
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also my coolant gauge on my dash works when it wants to, sometimes it reads right and other times it will stay all the way on c the whole time im driving, any explaination for that too? oh and if this helps one time i caught the coolant gauge going up and down in sync with my tach but it only happened once or twice
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:52 PM
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Sometimes leaks can be hard to find and I guess this is one of them. Have you tried running the car for a while it is parked? You can get a pressure testing tool for the car and that way you don't have to run the car.

As for the temperature guage, they usually aren't accurate when the coolant level is low because the sensor is not in water. Once the leak is corrected, the gauge will probably be ok.
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:28 PM
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i have tried everything i am not spotting a leak anywheres . brand new rad and hoses and thermostat and dry everywheres including timing areas where the water pump is located its like its vanishing out of thin air
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:36 PM
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If you can't find an external leak, you may have a blown head gasket. The coolant leaks into a cylinder and goes out the exhaust pipe as steam. You could hold something like a piece of paper or your hand in the exhaust coming out of the muffler. If condensation builds up on your hand, a head gasket is bad. This is a subjective test, a car with no problems also puts out some moisture but it's a very small amount and you can barely detect it. You may have to try this on another car that isn't having a problem to find out what normal is. Also, the car has to be good and warm because if the exhaust pipe is cool, all the moisture will condense before it can get out.
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