First of all, i would like to state that I apologize for "post whoring" to reach my 15 posts awhile back...

I was wondering what people are running on around here as I am on the search of new wheels, I dont want to lower my car because I like my ride, and it's not some race car... I'm running 215/50/17s right now, and was wondering who has bigger wheels to help xlose up the gaping issue.. I was thinking 350z staggered, G35 , or some decent mille miglias...

Thanks to all!

 

Also no major rub issues*

 

Lowering your car doesnt mean you lose the suspension quality. Im lowered on KYB AGX struts and Progress Springs. My struts are adjustable. I can make them super soft, or in my case super stiff.

Tokico Illuminas are also a very very good adjustable strut.

Many people here are lowered and love the ride quality.

Plus, without lowering it, theres no way you can pull off a staggered setup

 

Hmm... How much would a set up like run me? And you talk about ride quality.... I wont be making sunroofs with my head( no Sunroof) when I hit the slightest bumps? I see these riced out hondas and the drivers head is bouncing around like he's on a trampoline lol

 

Ride quality is always a drivers opinion. My setup set me back 800. I bought all the parts and had them installed for me at a shop.

I will say that AGX struts are notorious for getting stiffer in the cold... which they do. But it doesnt bother me. Tokico Illuminas from what i've heard do much better in cold.

Anyways, my ride is like that of an infiniti. Its not too stiff, not to loose. Speed bumps and potholes will give you a little rattle, but normal driving is not bad at all. It all depends on how you set the damper settings. (soft or stiff)

 

Bigger wheels will make the wheel gap look even bigger. If your not looking to lower your car then you have very few options that will look decent.

IMO, only 02-03 maxima se wheels look ok without a drop...18in 350z or g35 without a drop will look very awkward.

 

yea bigger wheels or rims will not fill in the gap without a drop....i learned that when i decided to put 20"rims with a 225/35 tire big mistake and waste of money. so im on stock 17" 05 altima 3.5se wheels and tires i think the tire size is 215/55.but im also dropped 2inches all the way around almost no gap in front and mayb a 1" gap in the back but a very little rub in the front when making a sharp u turn

 

Definitely give dropping it a second thought. The guys you see bouncing around are probably on a cheap set up. You may lose a little ride quality depending on the set up, but its not like you will have to pray every time you go over a speed bump.

 

stock. anything bigger looks stupid at stock ride height.

if you want to lower your car and still retain ride quality go with one of the less aggressive springs like H&R and koni struts. tokicko struts are a distant second, and agx struts are an even more distant third.

 

Thanks for the info 95Maxed. SO many people dodge my question when I ask about ride quality and I think its because most everyone assumes that once you lower your car, you loose ride quality and it is not 100% fixable. Thanks to your explanations throught the forum, I'm saving up for a set of Tokico adjustables to go with my 2.25" drop.

 

Thanks to all, looks like Max-r is getting dropped... Any suggestions on what to go with? Kyb is a know brand and has good products... Anyone have before and after pictures or pictures of it dropped 1.5-2 inch?

 

Thanks, I love helping people out.

KYB is a good known brand. BUT, their struts are also the stiffest, and get stiffer in the cold. Go with Tokico Illuminas or Koni Yellows. H&R springs might be good for you since they have a good spring rate.

Check out TireRack.com for struts and springs, I got mine there for like 150 bucks cheaper than anywhere else. Plus, free shipping.

Last thing, invest in a good set of camber bolts for at least the front wheels, otherwise youll be spending money on tires b/c of camber wear.

 

Thanks 95maxed, didn't even think about how the drop will make my fronts cambered! I'll have make sure to get an alignment and some nice camber bolts with this purchase

 

you don't need camber bolts, you just need to get an alignment. the slotted top bolt hole on our macpherson strut design (and the aftermarket struts designed for our cars) is enough to allow for proper camber adjustment up to like 3.5" of drop. and it's not camber that wears out tires, it's too much toe.

don't bother with the kybs. if you want to do it right get konis, if you want to do it easy get tokickos. there is no reason to get kybs for our car. tokickos are a bit better, and konis are way better. i owned kybs for like 4 years. they can never be adjusted properly because the rebound and bump changes in a disproportionate fashion on the ones they designed for our car. if you get the rebound set right, the bump is wrong, and if you get the bump set right, the rebound is wrong.

 

I had an alignment done, i NEEDED camber bolts on my 2 inch drop for the front. The rear i got by without, but my tires did get slight camber wear.

Besides, camber bolts are 30 bucks... its worth the money.

 

i don't know what to tell you. i had a 2.75" drop and did not need them. i guess it depends on your definition of "need" - what were you able to get the camber to without the bolts, and what were you wanting your camber to be? I had some negative camber (about -1.25 degrees if i recall correctly) but also proper toe which as i said before, is what really wears out tires, not camber. camber will change with toe if you don't adjust them both back after lowering the front of our car, and camber is what people "notice" rather than toe, so everyone mistakenly calls it "camber wear" when it is the toe that does 99% of the abnormal wear when you lower a maxima (and many other types of cars). true camber bolts are cheap, i even bought a set back when i first lowered my original max back in the day, but i never ended up needing them. i probably still have them sitting in the original packaging somewhere lol.

camber doesn't change in the rear when you drop it with our suspension design, the rear is a beam, it just goes up and down. the top of the tire doesn't tilt inward when you lower it.

 

The maxima front strut mounts have some built in adjustability... Probably 5° or maybe more. I had a camber problem when i slammed mine

 

I honestly cannot remember what I have them set at. All I remember is that without the bolts, the mechanic wasn't able to get the camber to be withing the factory specs. As for the my rear tires, its definitely camber wear, you can see my tires are cambered and not toed in. Idk, every drop is different I guess. Either way, 30 bucks for bolts isnt a bad investment.

 

im running 17" wheels with 45 side wall tires. Its smaller then stock so I get better acceleration gear ratios

 

Well boys.. I am now a proud owner of g35 wheels, and I am very happy at how it turned out.. I'm running 225/45/18 in fronts and 255 in rears, closed gap up in fender very, very well, no rubbing on U turns, and raised me about a inch, and speedometer is right in dial.... Also, the 8.5 inch rims in rear pulled my rear out very well, now flush with fenders maybe a 1/4 out.... Center caps were a pain as my axle wanted to keep popping them out, put with some hammering and a little work, everything works GREAT!!!!

 

Should've gone with some 48's.

 

What you running??

 

18x8" Volk GT-N's with 225/40's on KYB AGX's and Eibach springs.

 

I'm happy with my 18x8 and 18.5 wheels, I was running some gay American racing wheels, cheap. Junk. Crap. Glad I'm on OEM wheels, Volk make strong wheels

 

G35's are actually 18x8 all around

 

Thank you for correction kev... I actually thought they were a half an inch wider in rears, kinda bogus I can't rotate now