Anyone buy any of those cheap knock sensors from eBay?? If so, did they work and who was the vendor??

 

http://myworld.ebay.com/automartint9...id=p4340.l2559
i got mine for my 99 here it took a week to get to me and it cost 13 bucks total. My knock sensor code doesnt come back and my car runs smoother esspecially up to redline

 

Got mine here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Niss...item2c5d6ca7d9

Genuine Nissan part for $43.

 

member since 03 and starts a noob thread like this.....

 

aint that something lol

 

I just got bent over at my Nissan dealer for a knock sensor and an O2 sensor. I really should pay more attention to internet threads like this one and save a lot of money. Thanks for the links.

 

Get the cheapest one you can find. They're perfectly fine.

 

Sorry for being such a "NOOB!" I did search the threads for knock sensors and yes, people have purchased the cheap ones from eBay. Maybe I should have reworded my post asking what are the eBay vendor names that sell the cheap knock sensors and if they work!!! By the way, Max Ride 41, I see you live in Collegeville.... right down the road from me....

 

i just bought this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-KA24D...item4aa74e27ba

works great and shipping was fast got it in 2 days code hasnt came back

 

no $hit man, we should meet up sometime and do a cruise!!! yeah, i've seen like 3 or 4 knock sensor threads lately and im wondering if people really look before posting up a new thread. i just saw an oem knock sensor on ebay that sold for 30 smackers!!! there's also 4th gen parts section and someone also had one oem new. hit me up man before it gets too cold and we'll meet up at sonic or something!!! 95's represent!!!!

 

I bit the bullet and bought one from Automart International for $11.75 on eBay...

 

I got a Beck/Arnley from RockAuto....think it was like $40-$50.

 

Hey I have recently overheated and my codes consist of p0325 which is the knock sensor... I also am getting p0133 and p0153 codes which are 02 codes did any of you have the knock sensor code throw any 02 codes as well??... I'm pretty sure in my case the overheating put hairline cracks in the knock sensor which I'm gonna replace regardless

 

I just ordered one from RockAuto last week and it was the BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580679 $91.79. I got the one with 1 yr warranty rather than the cheaper ones that had 30 day warranties.

Taking the old one out and putting the new one in was harder for me than the threads on here and the videos online made it seem. My hands barely fit in the crevice where it is installed and having to twist in the screw with an index and middle finger rather than than using my thumb was also a challenge. I guess smaller hands make the job easier, as well as the experience of having done it once.

My last issue was that I ordered a new harness for the knock sensor and then couldn't get the old harness out because of the little plastic *** that holds it to the metal clip. I'm sticking with the crusty 16-year-old one that is in there, which sucks.

Good luck.

 

I also bit the bullet and ordered that same one as well..let me know how it turns out for you

 

I think mine was delivered today. Won't know until I get home from work. Any-hoo, where can I get a long, 12mm combo wrench besides flagging down a Snap-On truck???

 

got mine off ebay a while back and it worked fine. dont remeber the vendor though. but im sure they all are of the same quality.

 

I used a 12mm socket + 3/8" universal + a solid 18" extension when I did mine. I used the wire attached to the sensor (held firmly to the extension) to keep the universal joint at a 90° angle and to keep the bolt in the socket, which was in the center of the sensor.
The hardest part was just getting the bolt started correctly so it wouldn't strip, but I didn't have to try and fit my hand (or find someone whose hand would fit) under the LIM. Total time of job was ~15-20 minutes.

(Assuming this was the purpose for your wanting a 12mm combo wrench, given the topic)

 

Just ordered this one as well. Will post review after I install it.

 

Yeah, I have all of the sockets, 6 pt. and 8 pt., extensions, universals, etc., but I want to add a long 12mm combo wrench to my arsenal when I attack this thing on Saturday. I think I might try Harbor Freight. They have a store close by to me. BTW, I wrap a piece of electrical tape around my universals to keep them from flopping around!!! Give it a try.

 

BTW, it came in today!!!!!

 

My problem wasn't the universal so much as the bolt itself staying in the socket, my universal is pretty stiff on its own.

 

I ordered this one as well. Auto Zone and other places want so much money for one.

 

It makes you wonder why these things are so much $$$$.

 

I replaced my KS this morning and thought it would take all day when I was deciding how to go about it. I removed the air intake up to the throttle body and disconnected the MAF connector so I could move that out of the way to gain a better angle to access the KS. There is a green vacuum assembly near the front of the access hole to the KS. This prevented me from getting my hand in there. So I disconnected its wire connector and vacuum lines to help access the KS. Once I felt I had good access to the KS, I sprayed some WD40 on the KS bolt. Using 2 long 3/8” socket extensions, universal, 12mm 6pt. socket and socket wrench, I broke the bolt loose. Got it loose enough so I could turn it without the socket wrench. Using my grabber tool, I grabbed the bolt then the KS. If you don’t have a grabber tool, get one because it makes this a lot easier. Removed the metal clip and the old KS. Installed new KS and clip. Almost lost the clip because it sprung right out of my hands when I was trying to install it. Luckily, I had a magnet and found it under the car. Take extra care when handling the metal clip because you don’t get a new one with the new KS. Sprayed the KS bolt with WD40 to help with starting the bolt, put the bolt thru the KS, maneuvered KS and bolt over bolt hole using my grabber tool and a long screwdriver. Once I felt that the KS bolt was sitting on top of the hole, I used just my extensions, universal, socket and no socket wrench, to position the socket on top of the bolt and was able to turn the bolt to get it started. Once I snugged it up by hand, I used the socket wrench to slightly tighten it. While I had everything apart, I cleaned my throttle body and MAF. Put everything back together, read my CEL codes and along with the P0325(KS), there was a P0150, oxygen sensor. I cleared both, hoping the P0150 will disappear. Took it out for a spin and noticed a difference. To me, it felt like I had more “pedal!” I’d like to know how you guys who were able to take out your KS in 20 minutes, did it in such a short time!!! I was very lucky that I was able to start the KS bolt by using socket extensions, universal and socket!!

 

jobell, your way sounds like the way the shop would do it (remove the intake). I know, because I considered taking my wife's car in to have it changed and they were charging $435 for labor because of that.

Did you go from the front or the back?

 

You are referring to the air intake and not the intake manifold, right?? I like to have a lot of room when I work on stuff like this and I don't mind removing a bunch of stuff, just as long as it makes the job easier. Back or the front?? Not sure what you mean. I went in from the driver's side.

 

Now that I think of it, the shop did say "intake MANIFOLD." It's been a while... never mind that part.

In any event, I didn't have to remove anything to get to the KS. I did, however, take a flash photo so that I could study where everything was inside. Then I went in with just my arm (and somehow it fit... lol) and felt around for what I was looking for, put my socket on, attached my adapters and 18" extension, and did what I had to do.

Sure beat trying to use a wrench and ending up with a scar on my knuckle....

 

You have a 99 Maxima? Maybe Nissan made access to the KS easier on the newer models, cause there is no way in hell you can get your arm in there on a 95 Max, unless you are made of rubber!!!

 

And I weighed about 235 at the time.

Is your car Cali spec? I've read in other threads that there's a lot more stuff in the way on those models.

 

Nope and I weigh as much as you!!!!

 

No way if anything they made it harder because the swilr valve makes it virtually impossible to get your hand in there i used a peice of scotch tape to hold the bolt in the ks and meneuverd it in with a universal joint a 18 in swivel extention and a lot of finesse

 

just got my ebay KS today, going to install tomorrow on my 97 max. Ill let you guys know how it goes ; http://www.ebay.com/itm/320634496954...84.m1497.l2649

 

Shucks I guess I best hop on this train and replace mine too. Sounds like fun...not

 

That's what I ordered, came fast and everything the part looked fine, but I haven't time to install it. Let me know how it makes your car feel after you install it, I also have a 97 Max.

 

Install was a bit of a b*tch to be honest, my knuckles were bleeding and i was very frustrated by the end of it, though it took less than 30 minutes. I ended up using 12 inches worth of extensions, a universal and the 12mm socket method. Could not of done it without my magnet, this really helped me place it just right. Cleared the CEL (replaced coils at the same time) and took her for a ride. It was significantly more powerful (especially after 4k) and seemed to climb through the RPM's very smooth with no hesitation. I am very happy with the product!