00vi swap high idle help
00vi swap high idle help
ok i have done the 00vi swap car idle really high and jumps up and down between 1700 and 2500rpm i have already adjusted my tps ,my maf i have already checked ,no vacuum leaks that i can see, and i have done research and read pages and pages on the swap and other members advice
i am running 5th gen lower,upper,fuel rail,tb and iacv..but were im lost at is the two lines at bottom of throttle body that connect to iacv i cant find a digram or how to on these two hoses and were they go it seems most of the how to's and vacuum checks are all running the 4th gen iacv adapter plate some any idea
thanks in advance
i am running 5th gen lower,upper,fuel rail,tb and iacv..but were im lost at is the two lines at bottom of throttle body that connect to iacv i cant find a digram or how to on these two hoses and were they go it seems most of the how to's and vacuum checks are all running the 4th gen iacv adapter plate some any idea
thanks in advance
if they are coolant line why whould it run thru the iacv vavle i was running coolant to it before then i did research and read in some ones thread they had a simalar problem and on a 5th gen he said no coolant goes to tb
when it is cold out, and you have done a coolant bypass on your t/b, then a fourth gen will idle high. If you want to idle to return to stock (assuming everything else is right) then you need to run coolant though the throttle body. If you search here for coolant bypass you will find that other people (including myself) have had idle issues after it is done. It will idle fine when it's warmer outside, but once it gets cold (under 40*) you will have this issue.
your OP is a little confusing to read, but those two nipples on the 5th gen IACV are for coolant. If your running a 5th gen IACV its a good idea to run the coolant lines through there. The 4th gen stock TB had coolant lines too. just put them on the same way on the 5th gen tb
If your running a 5th gen tb without the IACV and using a 4th gen IACV then that bottom needs to disappear and you need to make a block plate for it.
When i did my swap i had to adjust my absolute TB stop
If your running a 5th gen tb without the IACV and using a 4th gen IACV then that bottom needs to disappear and you need to make a block plate for it.
When i did my swap i had to adjust my absolute TB stop
your OP is a little confusing to read, but those two nipples on the 5th gen IACV are for coolant. If your running a 5th gen IACV its a good idea to run the coolant lines through there. The 4th gen stock TB had coolant lines too. just put them on the same way on the 5th gen tb
If your running a 5th gen tb without the IACV and using a 4th gen IACV then that bottom needs to disappear and you need to make a block plate for it.
When i did my swap i had to adjust my absolute TB stop
If your running a 5th gen tb without the IACV and using a 4th gen IACV then that bottom needs to disappear and you need to make a block plate for it.
When i did my swap i had to adjust my absolute TB stop
ok understandable ...but about a week ago i had these coolant lines running to these two ports at the bottom of the throtle body and had the same result and from somethings i have read and to my understanding ..if i am right iacv opens when the sensor reads throtle is closed and when it does open lets a certain amount of air from the intake into the manifold ..and thats what allows the car to idle calm when throtle is closed ...
are you running 5th gen tb and iacv
Currently i am running 4th gen iacv and 5th gen tb
ok understandable ...but about a week ago i had these coolant lines running to these two ports at the bottom of the throtle body and had the same result and from somethings i have read and to my understanding ..if i am right iacv opens when the sensor reads throtle is closed and when it does open lets a certain amount of air from the intake into the manifold ..and thats what allows the car to idle calm when throtle is closed ...
are you running 5th gen tb and iacv
are you running 5th gen tb and iacv
I've read that it's more reliable to make a block off plate for the iacv on the 5th gen TB and make an adapter plate for the 4th gen iacv and run that instead. Something about the 4th gen not liking the 5th gen iacv. Just in case you hadn't read that yet.
I'm starting to do my 00VI swap next week so I've been doing lots of research and reading on the subject.
I'm starting to do my 00VI swap next week so I've been doing lots of research and reading on the subject.
I've read that it's more reliable to make a block off plate for the iacv on the 5th gen TB and make an adapter plate for the 4th gen iacv and run that instead. Something about the 4th gen not liking the 5th gen iacv. Just in case you hadn't read that yet.
I'm starting to do my 00VI swap next week so I've been doing lots of research and reading on the subject.
I'm starting to do my 00VI swap next week so I've been doing lots of research and reading on the subject.
plate
OP are you getting any codes? And could you be more specific on when these rpm changes are happening? i.e. cold starts, idle? If so, you have to bend the pins on our 5th gen iacv a but further down to make it make contact withthe harness. Believe me, I learned the hardway and now I don't have that idle problem.
OP are you getting any codes? And could you be more specific on when these rpm changes are happening? i.e. cold starts, idle? If so, you have to bend the pins on our 5th gen iacv a but further down to make it make contact withthe harness. Believe me, I learned the hardway and now I don't have that idle problem.
ok i adjusted the stop screw ,adjusted tps again ,checked all vacuum and still same problem
and its all the time if its cold out it will idle at 2000 when it warms it jumps from like 1500 to 2200
and i have the iacv hooked up right i think the connector is in all the way but i will go to try see if i can bend some pins
Sounds like my iacv before I bent the pins in down a bit further
It'll bounce between those to rpms right? Then eventually when it's warm just goes back to normal idle? Just make sure to bend the pins back urged down but not too much that they break. Use a zip-tie to secure the iacv and harness connector, and as others have mentioned, run the coolant lines through the iacv. Basically use the order from the way it ran through your 4th gen throttle body as if it were the same, though it might be a little longer. Hope this helps man and good luck!
It'll bounce between those to rpms right? Then eventually when it's warm just goes back to normal idle? Just make sure to bend the pins back urged down but not too much that they break. Use a zip-tie to secure the iacv and harness connector, and as others have mentioned, run the coolant lines through the iacv. Basically use the order from the way it ran through your 4th gen throttle body as if it were the same, though it might be a little longer. Hope this helps man and good luck!
Sounds like my iacv before I bent the pins in down a bit further
It'll bounce between those to rpms right? Then eventually when it's warm just goes back to normal idle? Just make sure to bend the pins back urged down but not too much that they break. Use a zip-tie to secure the iacv and harness connector, and as others have mentioned, run the coolant lines through the iacv. Basically use the order from the way it ran through your 4th gen throttle body as if it were the same, though it might be a little longer. Hope this helps man and good luck!
It'll bounce between those to rpms right? Then eventually when it's warm just goes back to normal idle? Just make sure to bend the pins back urged down but not too much that they break. Use a zip-tie to secure the iacv and harness connector, and as others have mentioned, run the coolant lines through the iacv. Basically use the order from the way it ran through your 4th gen throttle body as if it were the same, though it might be a little longer. Hope this helps man and good luck!
thanks and yep its all together just as you explained still same problem now with iacv pins wat pins do you have to bend, mine went in all the way the first time noreally mod to make fit
I know it "seems" like it's connected together, but after closer analysis the pins need to be bent a little toward each other, in other words, closer in, since the harness has a narrower insertion for them. Bend the pins in slowly and gently almost a good 25* in. I know it sounds like a funny figure, but it's a trial and error process. The first time I tried it, it wasn't enough. And I kept pushing them in ever so slightly further and further.
Let me ask you this as well. Are you using an after market intake system? If so, when you turn the car on do you hear the hissing of the intake? And also a gasping end sound when you turn the car off? If you don't it means that the iacv isn't properly connected, since that is what happened with me as well. Make sure to secure the harness and iacv with something that will not make it pop out. Electrical tape did not do it for me, and I am using a sort of strap for the moment until I can get a zip-tie around it.
Let me know how it goes and I do hope this helps. I know exactly what you're going through with it not working or idling correctly!
Let me ask you this as well. Are you using an after market intake system? If so, when you turn the car on do you hear the hissing of the intake? And also a gasping end sound when you turn the car off? If you don't it means that the iacv isn't properly connected, since that is what happened with me as well. Make sure to secure the harness and iacv with something that will not make it pop out. Electrical tape did not do it for me, and I am using a sort of strap for the moment until I can get a zip-tie around it.
Let me know how it goes and I do hope this helps. I know exactly what you're going through with it not working or idling correctly!
I know it "seems" like it's connected together, but after closer analysis the pins need to be bent a little toward each other, in other words, closer in, since the harness has a narrower insertion for them. Bend the pins in slowly and gently almost a good 25* in. I know it sounds like a funny figure, but it's a trial and error process. The first time I tried it, it wasn't enough. And I kept pushing them in ever so slightly further and further.
Let me ask you this as well. Are you using an after market intake system? If so, when you turn the car on do you hear the hissing of the intake? And also a gasping end sound when you turn the car off? If you don't it means that the iacv isn't properly connected, since that is what happened with me as well. Make sure to secure the harness and iacv with something that will not make it pop out. Electrical tape did not do it for me, and I am using a sort of strap for the moment until I can get a zip-tie around it.
Let me know how it goes and I do hope this helps. I know exactly what you're going through with it not working or idling correctly!
Let me ask you this as well. Are you using an after market intake system? If so, when you turn the car on do you hear the hissing of the intake? And also a gasping end sound when you turn the car off? If you don't it means that the iacv isn't properly connected, since that is what happened with me as well. Make sure to secure the harness and iacv with something that will not make it pop out. Electrical tape did not do it for me, and I am using a sort of strap for the moment until I can get a zip-tie around it.
Let me know how it goes and I do hope this helps. I know exactly what you're going through with it not working or idling correctly!
thank you im going to give it a shot right now and yes the intake sounds super loud while my car is trying to idle (hissing sound)
no no change ,i reset the ecu i adjusted tps ,ajusted stop screw and checked for leaks,the car still feals like i have a missfire ,and idle jumps from about 1500-2100 when its cold it will idle at 2000 til it warms up then it still jumpy
Are you getting any codes? Just wondering because it will usually tell you why it's doing that and would want you to test your iacv with a multimeter. Also, are you running the coolant lines through the iacv?
yes i am running coolant lines and codes that come up are map sensor and misfire cyl 1 ..i checked almost everything that i can think of tommrow i am going to take everything off and redo the whole thing down to the lower manifold and makesure i have no leaks n everything is lined up right
Have you had any luck with the idle problem? I got a 5.5th gen and I just sold my brother my 4th gen and we just replaced the tranny and got it back running but we are having the same exact problem with the jumping idle with a DE-K swapped 4th gen. It only does it while in park or neutral. If you have figured it out please post it and let me know. That would be greatly appreciated, because it is making us want to pull our hair out! As you more than likely know exactly what were going through. Lol. Thanks!
Help Please.
Well... Thanks anyways... Still the same problem, anyone have any knowledge as to what this could be? Idle is irratic
and it only does it when the engine is warmed up. runs fine when in reverse or drive, but park and neutral its going vroom vroom vroom. between 800-2000 rpms. any help would be greatly appreciated!
and it only does it when the engine is warmed up. runs fine when in reverse or drive, but park and neutral its going vroom vroom vroom. between 800-2000 rpms. any help would be greatly appreciated!
Let me ask you this as well. Are you using an after market intake system? If so, when you turn the car on do you hear the hissing of the intake? And also a gasping end sound when you turn the car off? If you don't it means that the iacv isn't properly connected, since that is what happened with me as well. Make sure to secure the harness and iacv with something that will not make it pop out. Electrical tape did not do it for me, and I am using a sort of strap for the moment until I can get a zip-tie around it.
Let me know how it goes and I do hope this helps. I know exactly what you're going through with it not working or idling correctly!
yes i am running coolant lines and codes that come up are map sensor and misfire cyl 1 ..i checked almost everything that i can think of tommrow i am going to take everything off and redo the whole thing down to the lower manifold and makesure i have no leaks n everything is lined up right
take your time putting it back together, don't stress thats how **** breaks. i stripped the threads in the LIM with 3 long bolts that hold the UIM to the LIM TWICE. had to enlarge the 00vi bolt holes and re tap the LIM, so gay.
those two lines under the throttle body should be put together using a T like fitting. make sure that ur tps is positioned properly. I had the problem where mine wasn't and anytime i'd go WOT and come to a stop the car would stall out on me.
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Just cap those lines off and be done with it.


