I recently replaced my coil packs due to rough idle and missing upon acceleration. Right before I changed these, I CEL with a P1320 code.

The car runs much better now with the new coils but the check engine light is still on. How long would it take for the check engine light to go off if it was on due to the faulty coil packs? Thanks!

 

I've been told three drive cycles because the computer has to run through its diagnostics a few times to make sure the fault is no longer present. You can always unplug the battery for 30 min or so to reset the ecu or head to your local auto store and trick them into resetting it(they technically aren't suppose to do this anymore). Did you use Nissan OEM coils with the gray dot on them?

 

Thanks for the info.

No we used BWD/Intermodal coils at $70 a pop. I strongly do not want to put the junk Nissan coils back in since they pooped out at 60k. Why do you ask?

 

Well the original coils from nissan are junk, but the updated coils with the gray dot on them are well worth the money(courtesyparts.com or nissanpartsasap.com are both dealers who have online parts for much cheaper prices). The reason for your p1320 remaining could be because of those aftermarket coils. The tolerances of those aftermarket coils are just not quite right(there are many threads on the org regarding this issue). I used a BWD/Intermotor coil on my 2000 max and still had the p1320 UNTIL I went and got an OEM. Some guys up here the aftermarket coils have worked well for and they have no CEL, but for most it doesn't.

 

I am not exactly certain when I got the CEL but it could have been recently. I swapped out 3 coils last week, then the other 3 today. So the CEL could be due to the new coils. On the flips side though, the roughness at idle and mis-fire at acceleration (around 40mph) is completely gone (so far) with the new coils.

The sites that you listed are a good bit more expensive than the BWDs. At least $25 per coil. I forgot to mention that I got the BWDs for 20% off. So, if the car continues to run correctly with no rough idle and no mis-firing, should I keep the BWD's?

Thanks!

 

What condition are you spark plugs in? this could be something else to look at too. See the problem I see is that even though you have no rough idle or no noticeable misfiring is that a misfiring issue can cause damage to your pre-cats over time, resulting in needed replacement. Honestly I would return those BWD's and invest in OEM but I'd reset that ECU before I did anything to see if the code returned.

 

Replaced the plugs about a month ago and are good to go. I'll reset the ECU and see what happens. Thanks for the info!

 

P1320 from the service manual:

Possible Cause
NFEC0572
I Harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or
shorted.)
I Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
I Condenser
I Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
I Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit

your crankshaft sensor could also be your issue as well. What year is your max?

 

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

scroll to the bottom simple ecu reset procedure

 

Or buy a $20 scanner:


I got tired of checking/erasing codes manually lol

 

Its a 99. Thanks!

 

I bought myself that same scanner for christmas, lol it works great for me!

 

P1320 is an "Ign primary signal" code, not a misfire code. Your BWD coils are within BWD specs and are working fine, nut they are outside Nissan specs and look bad to the ecm. This is a known issue with after market Nissan coils, and is the result of sloppy manufacturing. You would have done better with used OEM pieces.

 

Do you think the P1320 is a result of the BWD coils and do you think the BWDs would be fine to keep? Just wondering if there would be any consequence of keeping these coils. Thanks.

 

Yes. Ignition primary refers to the harness, the primary windings in the coil, or the condenser in the harness. After market coils show different resistance values due to the gauge of wire, or number of turns in the primary winding. To the ECU this looks like a bad coil, although it runs fine.

FWIW, OEM '99 coils have an unnaturally high failure rate. Go to the wrecking yard and pull coils from pre '99 4th gens. Test your original coils for re-use, and use the best looking boots out of the bunch. Take the BWD coils back when you resolve the issue, but be quick or they might not refund.

Or buy new grey dots.

 

Ok, thanks for your information here. I do appreciate your time.

What I really want to understand is what physically would happen if I kept the BWDs and the P1320 code stayed lit. If its just a light and nothing physically is going on with the electrical system or mechanics of the engine, I'll just keep the BWDs. Somehow, I believe it won't be that simple though.

Also, how do I distinguish between the good (grey dot) Nissan coils from the older ones with the high failure rate? I assume the parts have a grey dot on them but not sure where. Is there a new part number for the grey dot coils? In other words, when buying the OEMs, is there a good part vs a bad old part that I need to look out for. Don't want to end up with the original garbage that came with the car from the factory that got me here in the first place. Thanks!

 

If buying used, get pre '99 Mitsubishi marked coils and stay away from the Hanshins.

I don't know about the new OEM, but I think they actually have a spot of grey paint. Biglou55 can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

The grey dot coils I have is just a sticker on them, I have seen the 5.5 gen coils have paint instead.
You would need to confirm it's the coils( probably is but better safe than sorry) and not another issue (crankshaft position sensor REF(doubtful)) before you just accept riding around with that ses light. Also you would have to check your ses light at random times to make sure no additional codes have appeared. Head to your nearest junkyard, I always see a few 4th gens in the scrapyard so I'm sure you an find some coils in there for cheap.

 

True. As well, if you have to pass inspection, it will most likely fail you.

 

Oh yes I forgot about that good point, probably because my car is registered in a non emissions county so I just have to pass the basics to pass inspections ses doesn't even matter.

 

as stated, BWD coils are the reason for your P1320 code............ask me how I know

For electrical components............OEM or bust!

 

Update:
Lets start from square one. Car was idling irradically and missing around 40mph.

Changed fron coils with BWDs. Missing and idle problems continued and CEL came on 1320 code.

Replaced rear coils with BWDs. Idle and missing problems went away but CEL came back on after reset. Removed front coils, reset CEL. Idle and missing problems still gone, CEL still off. So far so good.