I got a code 1005, have a picture showing the EGRC Solenoid, the small piece with the green connector just to the right front near the air intake /throttle body. Can anyone walk me thru the step by step removal / replacement of this item. Thanks.

 

Tricky but fastest way: buy a 10mm flex head ratcheting wrench (Gearwrench is one band). Disconnect the electrical connector. With the wrench head bent at 90 degrees, use the fingers of your left hand to slip it under the solenoid valve and onto the nut, working from the left of the valve. Your hand will barely fit. Break it loose, ratchet it a few times, then loosen the nut by twirling it between the sides of your index and middle fingers. Bend the mounting bracket up a little bit to help.

Better way, but slower (maybe) and more involved: Remove the air intake, including the part that connects to the front scoop. That will enable you to get an ordinary wrench onto the solenoid valve nut from the right side (standing in front of car looking at the engine), through the vacuum gallery. No gymnastics required. But more intimidating if you've never removed the air intake.

 

Thanks. I've had the air stuff off b4, just need a warm day now as I am going to get the part at a pull yard.

 

You can also get a 10mm crows foot wrench for a couple of bucks that works as well as a flex wrench. And make sure you have a magnetic extending pickup gizmo. You WILL drop the nut when you take if off or put it on.

 

Even though I'm really inexperienced mechanically, this was one of my first parts replaced on this car (after I managed to switch my MAF sensor which cured all the stalling I had at that point).

Getting the nut off the EGR solenoid was not the hard part, however.

Be careful taking the little hoses off the EGR solenoid. When I did mine, after doing research here on the .org, I used a door-panel popper tool to pry the little hoses off but one of them still ripped. The door-panel popper was recommended by some other guys who had taken this part out.

Have a small extra supply of that diameter hose before you start this project because what my mechanic told me is that you don't need the 3 in. long ones specifically (which are pretty expensive by themselves). Instead, you can simply loop it in a little circle if the replacement hose is too long, which I ended up doing. This is because that hose simply controls vacuum pressure in that system, so a little extra loop doesn't hurt.

I have not had that code come back and it was extremely satisfying to clear it and see it not come back, as this was one of my early "repairs" on this car.

 

I don't know how much this valve is but you can just open it up and clean it and then reinstall it. As I recall, inside is just a tube with a piston and a spring, the piston gets dirty and hangs up in the tube, only take a few minutes.