car won't start
02-28-2012, 05:32 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 160
car won't start
on every warm start, and on random cold starts i have starting issues. sometimes it takes two or three key turns to get it started, sometimes two or three minutes, and sometimes it won't start at all. when it doesn't start, it won't crank at all. when it finally does crank it starts like normal. it is clear that the problem is not the ignition switch, as there is something going on in the engine bay. here is an audio recording:
http://soundcloud.com/reverent/car-starting
also if it's worth mentioning, at one point, when my car would absolutely not start i tried to jump it and there was still no response
attempts at fixing the problem include:
-replacing the starter solenoid
-replacing the starter
-replacing the inhibitor relay
-adding a ground to the starter
-checking the battery
-checking that the battery is sending 12V to the starter solenoid
even after all this the problem still persists; and starting is the only problem. otherwise, the car has been running perfectly fine
http://soundcloud.com/reverent/car-starting
also if it's worth mentioning, at one point, when my car would absolutely not start i tried to jump it and there was still no response
attempts at fixing the problem include:
-replacing the starter solenoid
-replacing the starter
-replacing the inhibitor relay
-adding a ground to the starter
-checking the battery
-checking that the battery is sending 12V to the starter solenoid
even after all this the problem still persists; and starting is the only problem. otherwise, the car has been running perfectly fine
Last edited by Perseus; 05-24-2012 at 01:14 AM.
02-28-2012, 05:38 PM
#3
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also forgot to mention that i did have issues starting these past few weeks. i would turn the key once and nothing would happen, but two or three turns later and it would start perfectly
months ago the starting problem was a little different. turning the key, you could hear the starter rev but the engine didn't respond (characteristic of not turning the key all the way). and ofc this was solved by installing a new ignition switch and putting some duct tape in the key housing. i'm pretty confident that these aren't related
02-28-2012, 05:42 PM
#4
nope. is there any way to check if it is actually the starter?
also forgot to mention that i did have issues starting these past few weeks. i would turn the key once and nothing would happen, but two or three turns later and it would start perfectly
months ago the starting problem was a little different. turning the key, you could hear the starter rev but the engine didn't respond (characteristic of not turning the key all the way). and ofc this was solved by installing a new ignition switch and putting some duct tape in the key housing. i'm pretty confident that these aren't related
also forgot to mention that i did have issues starting these past few weeks. i would turn the key once and nothing would happen, but two or three turns later and it would start perfectly
months ago the starting problem was a little different. turning the key, you could hear the starter rev but the engine didn't respond (characteristic of not turning the key all the way). and ofc this was solved by installing a new ignition switch and putting some duct tape in the key housing. i'm pretty confident that these aren't related
02-28-2012, 06:04 PM
#6
02-29-2012, 12:15 AM
#13
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Posts: 160
after putting everything back together just now the car started perfectly fine...but i'll try the ignition switch test again and see what happens
i remember reading that people who've had to change their switches several times over the course of a few months had another problem that was causing the switch to go bad. not sure if it's related to that
also read that people who have a hard time starting when it's really hot out have bad ignition switches. this might be it since my car was a furnace when it wouldn't respond to my key at all, but i guess i'll have to observe what goes on before i can make a clear correlation
i remember reading that people who've had to change their switches several times over the course of a few months had another problem that was causing the switch to go bad. not sure if it's related to that
also read that people who have a hard time starting when it's really hot out have bad ignition switches. this might be it since my car was a furnace when it wouldn't respond to my key at all, but i guess i'll have to observe what goes on before i can make a clear correlation
02-29-2012, 11:54 AM
#15
There is a clutch inhibitor switch and relay for manual trans, and P/N safety sitch and relay for auto. There are a few places to drop the start signal between the ign and starter. When you have a no-start, test the signal wire at the sterter and work your way back. Down load the FSM (search) to get a wiring diagram.
03-01-2012, 07:12 PM
#16
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i'm pretty confident that the issue only occurs when it's hot(trouble starting is always in the afternoon, and it was VERY hot when it wouldn't start). could bad wiring still be the culprit? i really hope it's just the ignition switch @_@
03-01-2012, 08:36 PM
#17
similar issue happened to our i30. the switch has been going bad for a while and one time wouldn't even start the car at all. try pushing the gas pedal just for fun and see if it starts then.
03-01-2012, 09:17 PM
#19
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forgot to mention that i was paying more attention to it, and there is a click when i turn the key and it doesn't start. i did a little reading and apparently this means that it isn't the ignition switch
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hing-else.html <this thread reports a similar scenario to my own, and it was solved by replacing the inhibitor relay. how can i see if that's the problem in my case?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hing-else.html <this thread reports a similar scenario to my own, and it was solved by replacing the inhibitor relay. how can i see if that's the problem in my case?
03-02-2012, 07:12 AM
#23
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Yo man,
Chrisman and ASAND1 already pointed you in the right direction. If the starter is good, then there is a problem with the starting circuit.
If you cant test/check the starting circuit yourself then try to have an orger help u or take it to a mech and have them check it.
03-02-2012, 07:57 AM
#24
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 84
Also, if you hear the solenoid click then it is not the relay either. You need a multimeter and s friend to help. If you have someone try to start the car while you listen under the hood to see where the click comes from. With multimeter you can check voltage at the solinoid switch harness, that will let you know if the inhibitor/interlock relay is working. If so then test voltage on the positive side of the starter solenoid.
03-02-2012, 05:22 PM
#25
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Yo man,
Chrisman and ASAND1 already pointed you in the right direction. If the starter is good, then there is a problem with the starting circuit.
If you cant test/check the starting circuit yourself then try to have an orger help u or take it to a mech and have them check it.
Chrisman and ASAND1 already pointed you in the right direction. If the starter is good, then there is a problem with the starting circuit.
If you cant test/check the starting circuit yourself then try to have an orger help u or take it to a mech and have them check it.
sorry but i'm not experienced; just learning as i go
03-04-2012, 06:05 AM
#26
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 84
I checked that relay by taking the starter solenoid harness, the one you had to unplug to take the starter off. The side coming from the car you will use for ppsitive on multi meter and of course ground somewhere. Get someone to tru to start the car. If you get power to it then your relay is working. Try that and report back.
03-05-2012, 12:39 PM
#27
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
nope. is there any way to check if it is actually the starter?
also forgot to mention that i did have issues starting these past few weeks. i would turn the key once and nothing would happen, but two or three turns later and it would start perfectly
months ago the starting problem was a little different. turning the key, you could hear the starter rev but the engine didn't respond (characteristic of not turning the key all the way). and ofc this was solved by installing a new ignition switch and putting some duct tape in the key housing. i'm pretty confident that these aren't related
also forgot to mention that i did have issues starting these past few weeks. i would turn the key once and nothing would happen, but two or three turns later and it would start perfectly
months ago the starting problem was a little different. turning the key, you could hear the starter rev but the engine didn't respond (characteristic of not turning the key all the way). and ofc this was solved by installing a new ignition switch and putting some duct tape in the key housing. i'm pretty confident that these aren't related
Take the ignition switch out of the housing and try starting it using a screwdriver. If it works every time, you probably have the slop issue. A new ignition switch won't fix it, you need to put a shim in the slot in the switch.
03-07-2012, 03:43 PM
#28
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: MAGNOLIA TX
Posts: 129
try jiggling the key when its in the start position and see what it does. on my 98 it usualy took 2 or 3 turns of the switch to get it to work when it was going out. usualy could hold it foward and then wiggle it to make it work until it finally went all the way out. bought a whole assembly from oreilly and replaced the thing. no problems since.
usually that clickin noise is the starter. find where the noise comes from and that's probably where the problem is.
usually that clickin noise is the starter. find where the noise comes from and that's probably where the problem is.
Last edited by ADROX; 03-07-2012 at 04:10 PM.
03-08-2012, 11:20 AM
#29
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
you will need the elecrical diagrams from the FSM to properly diagnos. PM if u need the FSM
03-10-2012, 03:31 PM
#30
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Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 160
sorry for responding so late but i had other priorities to take care of this past week
anyways no it's not the issue with too much leeway in the key housing; that is the problem that i fixed months ago. also, with that issue you could start the car after a few key turns, but with this sometimes you can't start it for 10 minutes - and jiggling doesn't make a difference
dark - thanks. i tested it out and the solenoid is giving a signal
and an update on the issue: the issue is at its worst when the engine bay is hot, but it has occurred on cold starts as well
anyways no it's not the issue with too much leeway in the key housing; that is the problem that i fixed months ago. also, with that issue you could start the car after a few key turns, but with this sometimes you can't start it for 10 minutes - and jiggling doesn't make a difference
dark - thanks. i tested it out and the solenoid is giving a signal
and an update on the issue: the issue is at its worst when the engine bay is hot, but it has occurred on cold starts as well
Last edited by Perseus; 03-10-2012 at 05:34 PM.
03-10-2012, 06:03 PM
#34
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Join Date: May 2011
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if it helps at all, here's a recording of the engine bay when trying to start the car. i give it 3 full turns before it finally starts on the last turn
http://soundcloud.com/reverent/car-starting
http://soundcloud.com/reverent/car-starting
03-11-2012, 09:42 AM
#36
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: MAGNOLIA TX
Posts: 129
did you ever try starting it with the lights on? if the lights go out when the click occurs its a bad conection/cable.
and when you say the problem only occurs when it's hot do you mean outside temperature or the engine itself being hot? the engine bay heat could affect the starter which won't show up at the local dealers testing machine.
and when you say the problem only occurs when it's hot do you mean outside temperature or the engine itself being hot? the engine bay heat could affect the starter which won't show up at the local dealers testing machine.
Last edited by ADROX; 03-11-2012 at 09:47 AM.
03-11-2012, 03:17 PM
#37
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Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 160
did you ever try starting it with the lights on? if the lights go out when the click occurs its a bad conection/cable.
and when you say the problem only occurs when it's hot do you mean outside temperature or the engine itself being hot? the engine bay heat could affect the starter which won't show up at the local dealers testing machine.
and when you say the problem only occurs when it's hot do you mean outside temperature or the engine itself being hot? the engine bay heat could affect the starter which won't show up at the local dealers testing machine.
03-11-2012, 05:38 PM
#39
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Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 160
took a gamble and bought the last solenoid at the shop. installed it and it still won't start on the first try, but it does start much sooner. HUGE improvement from this morning but it's still not perfect...
Last edited by Perseus; 03-11-2012 at 05:43 PM.