*EDIT* UPDATE

I've got them installed finally. It feels amazing. I do have a minor exhaust leak between the cat and the ypipe. That will be fixed in a week or 2 when I install my test pipe.

My buddy grinding the cross member


Pictures of the cross member and where it was cut and ground. I painted the cross member after it was finished to prevent rust.




Pictures of the motor mount cover. I cut the passenger side of the cover off with a grinder and then broke the other side with a pry bar and hammer.


I did undo the inner power steering hose. It's only a clamp and 2 bolts and it made working the headers in place much easier. As stated, you don't have to remove these, but I personally found it easier to just take it off for extra room. The rear o2 sensor in the ypipe is a tight fit between the sway bar and the firewall but you can get it to fit, once it's screwed in all the way it won't touch anything. I've deleted the ENTIRE EGR system. None of it is longer bolted to the car. I've rerouted all the coolant lines to bypass their original set up and removed everything related to the EGR. I then cut the top of the EGR tube off from pipe and welded it shut and re-bolted it to the intake manifold.

All in all, this project took about 8-10 hours. It's a lot of trial and error. However, once you finally get the headers on and start it up for the first time, you get the biggest amount of satisfaction. It feels like a whole new car. Like nothing is holding it back. The time it takes to get from 75-110 happens so much quicker then stock and it just keeps climbing and climbing like it doesn't even have to try. The sound is also quite nice, minus the exhaust leak that I have. I'll be sure to make a video of the sound once I get the leak fixed.

 

I've heard they were a pain...good luck. Wish I could help more.

 

+1

 

That's just how it is.

 

Which headers are you installing?

Have a pic?

You're doing it wrong if it's kicking your @$$, just sayin'

 

OBX-R V2 Headers/ypipe for VQ35


Really it's just fitment that's a *****. You have to unhook everything just to get the rear header to slide up into place. Then it's constant remove, grind, place, remove, grind, etc. It's going to be well worth it though, so I'm just going to keep at it. I should have it done by tonight.

 

i dont recall having to remove any ps hoses. the only modification schmellyfart and i had to do was the grinding of the x member . everything else went in fine

 

oh and you might have a leak where the front headers meets the y . the gaskets provided arent thick enough so i still have a leak

 

Maybe its because the car isn't lifted enough or what, but I could not get the rear header into place with the power steering hoses attached. The bezel on the hose gets in the way and won't allow me to push it up. I just disconnected it and it slid right up into place. I just need to do more grinding to get it to fully bolt up.

 

good to see more people trying this, hopefully OBX will get better and fix all the bugs before I buy a set of these. If not oh well. Good luck finishing it up though dude.

 

These are the V2 headers designed for the VQ35. If you want ones that are direct fit, OBX-R has some for the VQ30.

 

meh . idk . are you almost finished ? took us almost 8 hours

 

Wrong.

To the OP.

I don't recall the PS line being in the way, the only thing in the way was the motor mount bracket, after that was removed then the headers came right off.

I will install these Friday night if the weather plays ball with me, take some more photos for future reference and clarification.

 

Yeah, it's almost finished, I had to stop short last night at 2am because my buddy had work in the morning. I just need to grind more of the cross member and it should slide right into place. Then I'll need to install the power steering hoses, weld the EGR on the intake manifold shut, install the intake manifold, and then fire it up.
These are specifically designed for the VQ35. If I had a 5.5 gen they would just bolt right on. Hence the modifying to fit them properly. By Motor mount bracket do you mean the Cross member that goes from the front radiator support all the way to the firewall and supports the motor?

 

Yeah header install is a PITA, but feels good when you're done with the job

 

Good. I hope it's well worth the effort

 

Remove PS hoses? Sounds like you chose the hard way. The easiest way is to drop the crossmember then pull the rear motor mount bracket.
This.
No. Those have even worse fitment, the front header to y pipe connection doesn't line up at all.

Just cut off the top portion of the guide tube that bolts to the uim and bolt it on with a nickel and some rtv between the uim and the guide tube.

No the bracket that bolts to the block and the motor mount itself.

 

theres a bracket that connects to the motor where the cross member connects. removing it lets the header in a lot easier

 

I've updated the first post with pictures and comments.

 

mmmmm headers...

 

+1

 

Did you go from Stock to headers or Y-pipe to headers?

I really want Cattman headers....but the price on these!!! tempting...very tempting!

 

nice work!

Who was your OBX source?

 

said exhaust leak is most likely cheap OBX flex that makes you sound like you have a small turbo. It's annoying when you are trying to run people. It's cool to see non car enthusiasts stare in confusion about this noise coming from a maxima.

 

I went from complete stock to full y-pipe and header upgrade. I say go for it. They are high quality, it's not incredibly difficult to get them to fit, and I'm sure the difference in gains to the cattman are minimal if any.

The cheapest place I could find them was HERE. Free shipping via Fedex and they were on my front door in less than 5 days.

It could be the flex pipe as well but I do really have a leak at the flange from the ypipe to the catalytic. When I was removing the stock ypipe from the Cat, I snapped a bolt and was unable to remove it from the flange. So I bolted one side, clamped the other, and tacked it with the welder. It's only going to stay this way for a week or 2 until I get my test pipe. Then I'll drop the cat entirely and bolt my test pipe up with new stainless bolts. Regardless of the leak, this set up makes me very happy.

 

What options do i have, being from California, in dealing with the EGR?

Will deleting the EGR throw a code? I don't mind getting rid of it as long as I can pass emissions.

 

If you put Headers on highly doubt you will pass the sniffer test, but there is always a way you can pass, just takes a little more Dollar$....

 

they have all but eliminated the pay off by all the computer scanners and VIN and all sorts of sheit. Its pretty hard to pass now, gotta drive around and find the guy who looks cool and hope he really is

 

Got It Covered....

 

You'll get a code.

You won't pass smog.

You'll need a buddy to go with you to use his (if it is stock) max to pose as yours at an illegal smog.

Oh, you'll pay more $$$


I already have my guy, and he keeps upping the price $20 ever 2 years


Hopefully having the VQ35 will change all that....

 

I've read that a 100 ohm (IIRC) resistor will take care of the EGR code. I'll see if I can dig up that post.

Edit: That was easier than I thought http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...relay-fix.html

 

It will throw a code but I don't have to pass emissions so I don't really give a damn. As of now I'm throwing 1 code for the EGR and 2 Codes for the EVAP system. Both have been deleted.

 

I ****ing hate california for it's emissions standards....

 

I've never lived and Cali and never will for this very reason.

 

I guess I wont have headers then...

Sucks because my OEM headers have no studs, leak badly, and are rusted to ****.

 

Oh, well I have headers, but just the ebay shorties.... for now and I did have crappy ash stock headers with 260k on them


I should be able to pass emissions still though, and would most likely get my engine swap done till after my next smog date.


So, don't sweat it yet dude... there's always hope!

 

Do you want my old stock exhaust manifolds?

 

sry, but i need more pics to see what was done. i have no idea where that last picture was taken from lol.

Would it be possible to request a pic from the bottom of the car? like a view of the whole y pipe from bottom and the right side, and where it touches the anything else that needs to be ground/removed/modded?

 

http://aackshunsgarage.blogspot.com/...1_archive.html





On my '96 to this day I do not have a code for the EGR by leaving everything else connected except for the pipe off of the header.

And I was lazy on this one... I didn't even block it off at all, it's just open.

Still drive it day to day fine getting 20-24mpg depending on how well I can behave..... I usually can't though.....

Haven't had a highway trip with all of this stuff.... Been meaning to though.

This is probably the most helpful thread for installing headers on a 95-03 Maxima.

If you can't do it after reading through this thread you may need to stay away from this job....

 

http://aackshunsgarage.blogspot.com/...1_archive.html





On my '96 to this day I do not have a code for the EGR by leaving everything else connected except for the pipe off of the header.

And I was lazy on this one... I didn't even block it off at all, it's just open.

Still drive it day to day fine getting 20-24mpg depending on how well I can behave..... I usually can't though.....

Haven't had a highway trip with all of this stuff.... Been meaning to though.

This is probably the most helpful thread for installing headers on a 95-03 Maxima.

If you can't do it after reading through this thread you may need to stay away from this job....

If you have the OBX, it's a crap shoot weather or not you need to grind away your X-member, it's pretty obvious once you get to the job, just have a dremel and sawzall handy.