Amazon List (free shipping):





Am I missing any essentials? I don't want to replace anything I don't necessarily NEED too.

Control arm bushings by Energy Suspension. But that just me imo. Im getting ready 2 tackle that job in a few wks with another orger

don't forget that actual sway bar bushings.... those are pretty cheap and since you have already out of there might as well change them...

Thanks guys

Yea, im contemplating which ES bushings I need, and If I can reuse any old equipment.

Could someone help me figure out which other of these kits I need? They're so many similar categories for each part.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+1999

These right?:
-Front Sway Bar Bushings - 20mm
Part Number: 7.5118

What else? If there's anything ES I can buy that will eliminate any of my MOOG parts? Except the control arms, I am FOR SURE buying new control arms.

The ES bushings replace the rubber part on the control arms and the big rubber bushing about the size of your fist stuck on the end of the control arm. If you are going to do all that you could easily take your existing control arms and have new ball joints pressed in. While they are off the car clean them up and paint them.

Really there is no need to replace the whole arm UNLES yours is bent! A little elbow grease will get the same results especially if you are going to pull the stock bushings off anyways! The reason why you get new control arms if you are NOT going to get ES bushings is to replace the stock worn rubber bushings. But your talking about purchasing new control arms with these new bushings and then pressing them out....see what im talking about?

Just trying to save you some cash here...

My miss-communication...I was asking what ES bushings I need EXCEPT those included with my new control arms. And if any of those ES parts could replace any of my MOOG parts. I don't want to mess with the en control arms, they should be fine.

I wanted to know which ES bushings I needed, such as the sway bar...sway bar LINKS...Basically, do I also need the Front sway bar LINKS bushings?

Oh...second thought. As an option to the ES bushings there is also the Delrin control arm bushings (I got them from another Org member). I had ES and then removed them for the Delrin bushings.

SuperPro bushings also make an offset rear bushing that will increase your caster a bit.

ES does make universal sway bar end link bushings but they dont fit very well (I had to force them). The actual sway bar bushing is a good one to get.

If you arent going to install the Control arm bushings then you will be fine with the complet control arm you listed. It will be just like stock. Just so you know the ES will change the way the car handles...

in my opinion if your going to go through all the trouble of changing the control arms I would install the ES bushings on it. When I did this job I didnt buy new control arms, I just took my stock ones, installed new ball joints (about $25 a piece) and had the same shop press out the control arm bushings (about $50 in labor to instal the ball joints and press out the bushings). All in all i probably spent less for reconditioning my existing parts with better bushings than what its going to cost you to buy new control arms. Just my .02

If you've seen how bad my car is rusted, you'd buy new control arms too.


I think for me right now, being a on budget, I will make use of the control arm bushings and when they wear out, I'll swap in some ES. I don't mind the labor. I enjoy working on my car. Thanks for the advice. Sway bar bushings it is. Are there alternatives to the sway bar end link bushings besides ES?

lol...yeah rust sucks...

I just asked the same question about the sway bar bushings....no answer though.

I doubt your stock bushing on the new control arms will wear out (unless you keep the car another 5-10 years).

Here is a decent pic of all three bushings just for the newbs on here (not you). You cant really see the rear one but its attached to the "rod" on the end of the control arm near the back of the car. I call this "proactive Newb posting"....

thanks brother.

Do you know if this amazon supplier gives (2) bushings instead of just one? They are about the same price as the ES website, except its listed singular, not plural.
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspens...1575548&sr=8-5




And updated version of list:

They will come as one pair....Im not sure why the list them as singular....that is confusing. That being said, check out the amazon review on this product. I actually have the exact same issue with my sway bar ES bushings (for the record I have installed ES bushings on three of my cars now and this is the first issue I have had with any them actually failing). I myself am thinking about getting stock bushing to replace the ES ones. This is what I posted as a question on another thread that I never got a good answer on....found it on your amazon post though...thanks

Also, you should put a layer of heavy duty Rustoleum type paint on your new control arms and metal parts before you install them. It will help with the rust thing and make everything nice

You need two of the "center link tie rods" - AND if you dont already have it a "3/8-Inch Drive Crowfoot Wrench" wrench attachment to remove them. (you cant get a normal wrech or socket in there). I dont remember what size the inner tie rod is but here is a link to a 17mm one for example:

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-816.../dp/B003DA5Q1W

You should also get replacement boots for the inner tie rods (I would check the Nissan price on this...the Moog price seams a bit steep to me).

http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K9860-Pin...=pd_sim_auto_2

I believe the center link tie rods are already on the list.

I didnt see that you had two listed. I thought you only had one.

i recently ordered new front end suspension as well ES/Moog everything but i went to rockauto, amazon, ebay, clarksautodiscount (local store in lakewood has everything cheap) and energysuspensions.com to compare part #'s and what was cheaper. I got ES motor mounts, ES subframe bushings, ES sway bar bushings, ES control arm bushings thats about all they offer specifically for the max, and MOOG i got endlinks, ball joints, tie rods outer and inner, and thats about it

I just did this job yesterday. I used Raybestos control arms with Deeza inner/outer tie rods and end links. Both of my rack boots were torn, so I'd pick up some of those since you'll have the old ones off anyway.

I personally don't see the point of buying Moog inner and outer tie rods. I think they're over priced and they're still made in china. Deeza stuff is made in Turkey...I don't know if that is worse, better, or the same....but they looked really nice to me. The front end feels brand new again.

So what and where was it cheaper?

bump for j2fresh

to j2fresh,

when you have an opportunity, would you kindly measure your es lca bsuhings & pin (length, id's & od's) and let me know what they are? i'm trying to source some rubber lca bushings (ie close to stock) and need the dims to determine what will work/fit. thanks and i hope you can find the tim to do this.

Both of mine sway bar end links were rusted and one was broken and they other one broke removing it.

Can you expand more on that please, lol.
Really interested to know how it handles now over road imperfections,
is it smoother, less jarring when going over uneven road conditions?

When I bought my car, it had several symptoms of a worn out suspension. The front end creaked when I would take off from a stop and there were various rattles and popping noises too. I first replaced the shocks, struts, front mounts, mount bearings, and bellows. (tokico hp struts/shocks) This only helped the ride but didn't help any of the noises I had. After doing the rest of the front suspension parts that I listed, and new engine/transmission mounts, the car is just as quiet as a new car. I still have a little wobble on the highway above 70mph, but I think that is due to wheel balancing issues.

AS far as your question about being smoother, and less jarring over uneven road conditions...I believe it is better than it was, but nowhere near the smooth ride of a Lexus for example. With the hp struts/shocks, se springs, and poly endlink and sway bar bushings it is a sporty-firm ride.

Each website had a different part that was cheaper. I just compared the prices from all the websites and bought the parts accordingly to cheapest price and shipping depending on if it's free or not