went to change pads due to metal on metal sound from rear wheels. changed the rights and went to the left. seized as **** piston. this side's was the only bare pad. BEYOND metal on metal. couldnt be more pissed. JY time too bad i work during their hours.

 

Rear calipers are notorious for seizing...Ive replaced both of mine for seizing up

FWIW..mine are from advance and both work great

 

One time and one time only. I was able to get one to turn back so I could get one more run out of it. I soaked it in PB Blaster.

 

bout to put my parking break up everytime i park now tho.

 

even tried bleeding while spinning and tightening

 

This is what caused mine to seize last time...... But i believe every maxima i have owned i have had a rear seized caliper.

Story......(though i dont like to admit this noob mistake)

The last one (98) i had it seize up on me the second day i owned the car. I was 20 miles away from home and it was about 2 am in the morning. So i put it up on the scissor jack and i was just going to tie off the caliper just to make it home(the tire was dragging the whole time i was driving) So i got it up on the jack and loosened the bolts to the caliper but it wouldnt break free of the rotor. So my brilliant thinking lets put the e-brake down..... Yeah to say the least it was a bone head move.

 

I just did my front and back brakes this weekend. Fronts on Saturday and rears today. I had a seized caliper pin in driver side left. Bought a new bracket and pins from autozone. Today, I go to change the rears and passenger side has a seized caliper pin. 40 minutes and some pb blaster later I got it out. I clean it up and put everything together. All seems fine. I go to run an errand and the brakes on the same side start locking up. I thought the wheel was going to catch on fire. Found another autozone and bought a bracket and pins and fixed it on the street. So far so good. I recommend you buy the bracket and pins from autozone. They don't cost so much. I think 15 or 20 for the rear bracket. The pins are another 16 I think. The only thing they don't sell are the rubber that seals the top of the piston. I just took them off the old ones.

I just realized that you said seized caliper not pin. So nevermind.

 

ok forgive me, but I don't get it...

 

Car rolled and fell off the jack??

 

I thought that too..but I don't get how that would work. E-brake locks the rear brakes, right? If the rear of the vehicle is in the air, there is no reason for the car to roll since the e-braked wheels weren't keeping the wheels from rolling in the first place...

 

Exactly what happened

 

Silly question for you. When you go to a junkyard, how do you verify that a caliper is good?

Also is it worth it compared to the cost of a rebuilt caliper from a parts store?

 

Must have used jack on side, so only one side of rear was in the air; other rear wheel was on the ground holding car in place. Let off e-brake and ...!!!

 

I love JY parts for many things, but not for brakes!!

 

well i was only going to try my luck at a JY. a nonseized caliper should rotate with needle nose plyers and some effort. if i didnt find one in this condition im going to buy one.

is it worth it? well if i can get one from a u-pull for 10-15 bucks, compared to 150 with a 75 core charge.

 

yeah, unfortunately, my piston is seized. wont budge AT ALL. i knew it too as soon as i pivoted the caliper down, the head of the piston was all rust brown and the inner pad was TERRIBLE

 

Try rock auto. They have raybestos, beck arnley and cardone 1 that range from about 66 to 70 core charge included in price. They also have a brand that i can't remember for 27 each. Order a pair for 140 and get back 70 when you're done, know for a fact they work and won't seize up a month later. I heard that it's recomended that you change both calipers at the same time. If you're willing to pay 30 or 40 bucks for brakes, you should be willing to pay at least that for calipers that make your brakes stop the car. I'm not trying to give you a hard time but we're talking about brakes/ calipers that are coming off a 14 year old car. Also rock auto is great on shipping turnaround. They have warehouses all over the place. Average for me is two days.

 

i work in a shop and can get a new one through them for around 75 after core. but if i can get one for 10 bucks that turns smoothly, why wouldnt i try that first before shelling out 150?

 

Fwiw jy calipers are fine as long as they turn how they should...most of us clean up parts regrease them anyhow before instslling...my last set of rears were 60 used and lasted until i sold my car and thensome...which was about a year after i installed them

 

How can you tell if one of your calipers is seized?

 

well it sounded like i was dragging cinderblocks behind my car. and i scored a nice caliper from the JY for 10 bucks. win.

 

The parking brake caused my right rear caliper to seize last January. Getting 22F high temp caused the adjusting CAM to freeze and not release. It was an autozone caliper with a lifetime warranty so I just swapped it for another one.

I'll never apply the parking brake again if it's below freezing.

 

i think this is whats going on with my car now...i changed my front pads cuz of scrapping sound and only the drivers side were completely worn out as to the passengers side still had a lot of meat on it left..i did some research and found out that our brake system is inter-crossed and since my rear passenger caliper could be seized it caused more stress on the front pads...i jacked my car up not too long ago and the rear passenger tired spun freely with the ebrake up and everything...i yet still have to check the caliper since i havent gotten a chance to but i believed thats what wrong with mine also...would it make sense to just get a caliper off a maxima from a junk yard?

 

^^^^ Is this how you check to see if your calipers are seized? Jack up the car and spin the wheels by hand and if they spin freely theyre fine and if they dont theyre seized? Only reason I ask is because I think one of mine might of just seized up. theyres plenty of meat left on both the front and rears but my car feels like something is holding it back all of a sudden when acclelerating, almost like a slight braking....

 

no i just noticed that, that was happening but u have to check the caliper piston i didnt get a chance to do it since i dont have the time to but it was something i just noticed and maybe that one sign that it is...thats y i was asking...no too sure though

 

Caliper is a part you don't want to take chances with. I got badly rusted calipers at the JY only so I could use them as a core trade in and keep my OEM calipers. If you have the money then buy OEM calipers. Like myself if you don't feel it's worth it then get refurbished OEM calipers at your local parts store with a lifetime warranty.

To inspect the calipers you'll have to raise the car and have someone press the brake pedal. To test the parking brake lever/ CAM in the rear caliper you'll need the parking brake cable pulled.