got P0440. which valve?
#1
got P0440. which valve?
So i got a CEL last night, P0440. Car runs good as normal. Checked around here and it seems to be an INSANE issue but like 25 different fixes for it.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/14920-v...784_1814_1817&
I have this sensor in the engine bay, I'm used to apply 12v and hearing it click and removing it and it click again. It never clicked.... Blew air on either side and it came out.
I ohmed out the terminals according to some of things i found on here. Ohm out terms 1 and 2, 3 and 5, 4 and 6. Value should be 30 ohms or so. So i did 1/2 and got about 40. Then 4/6 and got 75-80. Lastly 3/5 never got a reading. Applied voltaged to all terminals and no click. Is it safe to say that is my problem... Its pretty dam pricey valve, thats a dealership only. They told me i cant return it so be sure.
Another test was to plug the lines and turn it ON and OFF and watch it move. Which one am i looking at, the metal straight or the plastic 90* one? I would assume the plastic one none moved.
dealership says they sell more sensors in the rear then front one.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/14920-v...784_1814_1817&
I have this sensor in the engine bay, I'm used to apply 12v and hearing it click and removing it and it click again. It never clicked.... Blew air on either side and it came out.
I ohmed out the terminals according to some of things i found on here. Ohm out terms 1 and 2, 3 and 5, 4 and 6. Value should be 30 ohms or so. So i did 1/2 and got about 40. Then 4/6 and got 75-80. Lastly 3/5 never got a reading. Applied voltaged to all terminals and no click. Is it safe to say that is my problem... Its pretty dam pricey valve, thats a dealership only. They told me i cant return it so be sure.
Another test was to plug the lines and turn it ON and OFF and watch it move. Which one am i looking at, the metal straight or the plastic 90* one? I would assume the plastic one none moved.
dealership says they sell more sensors in the rear then front one.
Last edited by smash; 06-25-2012 at 11:06 AM.
#2
zip nada?
Hey much is that rear evap sensor suppose to move? The one on the cansiter. I gave it 12v and it does click and move but just like a CM or 2. I'm thinking it might not fully close. I sprayed WD40 on it and waiting.
the bolts are rusted to hell, it just keeps spinning. I hope i dont need a new canister.
Hey much is that rear evap sensor suppose to move? The one on the cansiter. I gave it 12v and it does click and move but just like a CM or 2. I'm thinking it might not fully close. I sprayed WD40 on it and waiting.
the bolts are rusted to hell, it just keeps spinning. I hope i dont need a new canister.
#3
Have you found/fixed the problem yet? I don't know how much movement the plunger in that valve should have, but if you try blowing though it, it should be either yes you can or no you can't. And when yes, it is easy to blow through. One of the many possible causes id the gas tank filler cap. Did you try that?
#4
yea gas cap was good.
I paid a shop $85 to smoke test the car while i watched. Turns out the canister was cracked on top, and leaks at both of the rear sensors.
Got a charcoal canister and evap sensor from the junk yard for $9. Swapped them out and went back to the shop. It stilled smoked at the neck of the BOOST valve ( green connector sensor at the rear) bought it for $185 at the dealership and its all good and passed without a problem.
I now have a purge valve for sale, one mounted on the engine bay if one needs it.
that plugder is only suppose to move slight so it was in order but the bolts were so rusted on the cansiter it was just better to remove both since it didn't cost me anything.
I paid a shop $85 to smoke test the car while i watched. Turns out the canister was cracked on top, and leaks at both of the rear sensors.
Got a charcoal canister and evap sensor from the junk yard for $9. Swapped them out and went back to the shop. It stilled smoked at the neck of the BOOST valve ( green connector sensor at the rear) bought it for $185 at the dealership and its all good and passed without a problem.
I now have a purge valve for sale, one mounted on the engine bay if one needs it.
that plugder is only suppose to move slight so it was in order but the bolts were so rusted on the cansiter it was just better to remove both since it didn't cost me anything.
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