Hey, all!

Having a problem with the ignition lock cylinder on our i30. Can't start the car with the key, but can take the ignition switch out and start it with a screwdriver in the switch.
I did the electrical tape trick and it started a few times with the key, but once the tape wore off it wouldn't start again.
Seem like the ignition lock tab is a little loose and either slides out of place or isn't gripping the switch strong enough to turn it over.
Found this part for 8 bucks online: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=488610
I assume that's the only way to fix it now, except for replacing the whole assembly (need to drill those bolts out as well).
How would I go about replacing just that part? If i'm missing something, and it's an easier fix, do let me know, please

Thank you!

 

Use an aluminup popcan and glue to replicate the tape trick. My electrical tape is still working.

 

I eventually had the same problem with the tape, and switched to the coke can fix. Works fine.

 

thanks, guys. i did end up putting a small piece of metal in there. definitely tightened the ignition up lol

 

The real problem is the ignition switch, not the extra space. By putting in a shim, you are just turning it a little more. If you bought a new ignition switch and key cylinder from nissan, you would still have the same space. If you take apart the ignition switch, you will see that one of the contacts inside is burned. When I was having a starting problem on my 97, I found out I could use a screwdiver and the car would start. So I took the ignition switch apart and that's what I found out. I cleaned up the contacts and I'm still using that switch 3 years later. If you do open it up, be careful, there is a spring in there.

 

Dennis, I've tried two brand-new switches from autozone that day. No dice.

 

I'm going to assume you tried shimming it. Did shimming fix it?

 

When I had my mystery starting problem, one of the first things I did was replace the ignition switch, and it didn't help. I think they're different causes of the same problem.

 

sure its your ignition? Could be park neutral switch. Next time try switching it into neutral and if it starts right up? problem solved. Lots of shops jump right to the ignition so they can sell you one and a new key and although it is a common problem it doesnt mean it HAS to be your problem

 

yup, shimming it (small metal piece inside the ign switch) did work

nope, wouldn't start in neutral either.

 

well, it started getting slow to start again, so i pulled the ignition switch for now (she'll have to use a screwdriver for now lol)

here's a vid i shot of the cylinder tab:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/81851542/VI...704_192033.mp4

i think my options are: either brand new or used cylinder lock, this thing( http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=488610), or a remote start.

how would i replace the middle choice (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=488610)? seems like there is a pin that goes thru the lock that holds it in place, but i'm not sure.

thank you, guys.

 

lucky parts are readily available. my friends benz 190's ignition broke and he had to get a new one... but its only available through benz. you send the vin # through a benz dealer to germany and then the factory makes you a new one w/ key.

he was also able to start his car for a few weeks with a flat head

 

found this guide: http://keypicking.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5409

looks like i'll have to drill some small holes next to the pins to take them off, then slide the old assembly out and new one in. Never done this before, so I hope it goes well.

 

Ok, the part came in today. Turned out to be the compete assembly for 13 shipped lol one of the connectors didn't fit. This one: http://db.tt/ikG48BsL
What's its purpose? The car started and shifted without it, but i rewired it temporarily (not soldered) and plugged it in.
thank you, guys!

 

That's so the car knows if the key is in the ignition.

 

Makes sense, thank you. It did chime, so i must have rewired it correctly. Need to solder it on now.

 

Hi there,
I have this same issue, I put tape over the lock cylinder tab but am wondering how to to the coke can fix? I'd really rather not pay for the $180 lock cylinder assembly when all I need is the tab! I just have a feeling like electrical tape won't last?

 

I'm not sure where you put the tape. I don't have a picture of the can fix, but here's a picture of the tape fix I did some time ago. http://s397.photobucket.com/user/Dbe...ion-1.jpg.html The part I circled is the end of the tape. (It looks grey, but it's really black electrical tape.) The tape actually goes down into the slot, and that's where you want to shim it up with the can instead. Cut a thin strip of can to fit in the side of that slot (not the bottom) and crazy glue it in there. It's only about 1/2" long by 1/4" wide.

BTW, if you do decide to replace the lock cylinder, I got one off Amazon for about $90, not $180.

 

check this out BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2011758 (AUTO) $7.28 + shipping from rockauto. same deal i got last summer! don't let that picture fool you, it's the whole assembly.

 

awesome,.mine is starting to go. You can pull the key in any position.

 

Nope, it's not. I took a chance and ordered one, and it is just the cylinder part (like in the OP's picture), not the whole assembly. They must have sent you the wrong part.

 

interesting...doesn't sound right, as their regular inventory for the same part is around $55.
this part #: 2011815 is around $52 and looks like the complete assembly in the pictures they provide.

 

Right, that's the correct part. I'm surprised it's that cheap, though, when mine was $90 off Amazon (it was the Beck-Arnley too, but a different part number). I'm sure I checked rockauto when I was looking for it. Sounds like their pricing is a little confused. But maybe it's just a great deal. I'm almost tempted to buy one just to have the spare part...