I know i know, nobody likes a noob but i need some help on where to start with engine performance upgrades. Should i start with intake, headers, and exhaust? Or jump right in to block work? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

Find yourself a equal-length y-pipe and take it from there. Take care of maintenance first.

 

Do maintenance first (seafoam, change oil, clean throttle body & MAF, etc.).

Basic performance mods include: GAB mod or intake, Warpspeed Y-pipe, test pipe, 2.5"catback.

The more involved performance mods include: MEVI swap, Cams, some kind of piggyback ECU, and tune.

 

Maintenance before mods. Make sure everything is in good working condition first.

 

well first of all what are your mechanical skills? do you have tools or do you have access to a shop with a lift and so on... but like everyone said first thing will be to get the car up to maintenance... I would drive it for a while after you check everything and make sure there are no surprises... the y pipe and the muffler could be replaced just a regular maintenance if rust has taken over... also be super careful when you clean the TB... I do know for a fact that the Idle Control Valve is very sensitive on the 5th gen...

 

Thanks everyone for the advice, tools and a place to work are solid. I will get started on the maintenance asap and go from there. Will have more questions haha, but i will keep posted and hopefully get some pictures up. Thanks again

 

Bad news on the maxima....the check engine light came on and i had it checked out..said it was the o2 sensors, noc sensor, and i think the gre/erg(something like that) sensor. I was wondering where these were located so i could potentially clean them and/or just go ahead and replace them.

 

Look up EGR cleaning in the how to's. What exact code for the O2 sensor, they are MUCH cheaper from Rockauto.com ($50 shipped). The Knock sensor code could be a ghost, falsely triggered by the EGR and O2 codes. If the KS IS bad, get one from ebay under $20.00. Knock sensors ARE NOT a case of getting what you pay for.

 

Well there are a few O2 sensors...we need the exact code, the Knock sensor is under the Upper Intake Manifold (but is really easy to change..takes 20minutes tops)..and what is the exact EGR code?

EDIT: Asand1 beat me to it

 

Read the stickies first, then maintenance, then mods. Be sure to read post #12 in the following link for performance upgrades.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html

Equal length y-pipe, you say? He'll be looking for a very, very long time. Great advice to give a n00b.


EDIT: Don't worry about the KS code until you have the other codes taken care of. Then reset the ECU and drive around for a while. The KS code often piggybacks other codes and really doesn't need replacing.

 

True its hard to find one. But its better to know at a early stage. He just needs to keep an eye out for one. I was going to get one but I think either you or someone you know jumped on a Stillen Equal length y-pipe,
that I was planning to jump on.

 

Question, why go with a y-pipe, and not headers with O2 sims?

 

The stock ypipe on these cars have 2 precats. The headers don't have any kind of emission blocking until the exhaust gets to the ypipe. By replacing the stock ypipe with an aftermarket one, you'll free up blocked power.

Nothing wrong with getting headers with it. Check into the OBX-R V2 3.5L headers. They bolt right up with minor fabrication and produce nice gains.

 

OBX-R V2 Headers and equal length ypipe is less than $350.00. Not sure if anyone makes just a ypipe that is equal length but who needs it when you could just get the V2's?

 

If you are a noob, then read this:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html

Its a really good read and details a lot of useful info with the max, including performance upgrades.

 

i disagree. you don't always get what you pay for but you ALWAYS pay for what you get! the cheap chinese knock sensors are cheap for a reason...because they're junk (think cheap coil packs, etc.). if you want to end up replacing the ks again soon or have sub-standard performance out of it, then, by all means, get the cheap chinese knock-off knock sensor and enjoy; if you want good guy stuff, then put a quality knock sensor on. fyi, i'm selling original equipment genuine nissan knock sensor for $35.00 shipped; here's a link to the classifieds for all interested.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...0-shipped.html

 

echo...echo...echo....I must have used invisible ink in post #10

 

Of course you disagree, you have a financial stake in it. Weve all seen enough testimonials on the board here clearly stating that the cheap ebay sensors work flawlessly for years. I appologize for cutting into your sales.

 

^What he said. The ebay KS' work fine. I however did bypass mine due to a stripped bolt hole

 

give me your equal y wiz or else... lol i was literally a few days late to that thread when you bought it

i'm on a mission to make one now :/ emailed stillen to see if they can still make one for me... i can't believe they stopped production, what a bunch of douche clowns!

OP from easiest to hardest/mild to extreme in a nutshell:
-intake
-cat back (2.5")
-high flow cat (2.5")
-y pipe (ebay or warpspeed, i recommend the latter and in stainless)
-headers (shorties)
-headers+equal y pipe (cattman (fit perfectly but only available used, no longer being produced) obx 3.5 headers (slight fitment issue))
-tune (piggy back or greddy emanage ultimate)
-MEVI (variable intake manifold from the middle eastern vq30de. complete bolt on if you get the whole package. made of metal and the intake path switch is mechanically actuated)
-00vi (2000-2001 maxima variable intake manifold, made of plastic, intake switch is electrical. this is not completely bolt on, lots on info on this, search)
-tune can go here too
-supercharger ($1.5-4k depending on parts (used/new) and whether you're doing it yourself... search in the maxima discussion under performance)
-turbo charging ($- dunno... everything a supercharger needs except you make the exhaust spin the turbine instead of the engine. so instead of adding a belt to spin it you add exhaust work.

oh and nitrous but i don't count that lol permanent horsepower ftw!

 

don't apologize; the ks i'm selling are a bargain for everyone with the savvy to see the obvious. cheap no-name sensors are cheap for a reason, because they're cheaply made. cheaper materials, cheaper production processes and less exacting standards. do you really believe that nissan (delphi), beck arnley & etc. are 5-10 the cheap chinese ebay ks because they are the same quality sensor but that the good guy brands are just making a boatload of pure profit on each sensor or is it more likely that the cheap sensors are made inferiorly? the testimonials that you refer to; have these people measured the timing advance to verify that the engine is operating at optimal levels or is "work[ing] flawlessly for years" just mean that the ghost code for the knock sensor hasn't shown back up since they replaced it? by the way, they're are plenty of post around here where people had problems with the el cheapo ebay knock sensors; i'm sure you've seen some of them, or have you seen nothing but glowing reviews of the cheap chinese knock sensors? fyi, i know because i too tried the cheap chinese ebay ks route but noticed that the timing was not advancing as much as it should even though there was no code thrown; with the oe ks, timing is more advanced at both idle and at higher rpm's. it never ceases tp amaze me that people send hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars on ther cars for maximum performance and yet will cheap out on something as important as the knock sensor! by all means, you MUST run premium gas, but put a junk ks on the car so timing will not be maximally advanced so as to get the maximum benifit from it. this type of thinking is penny-wise and dollar-dumb. but to each his own and good luck.

 

I can't believe there were 9 posts before someone referenced the stickies. Are people getting soft around here?

 

You and about 4 other people are bugging me for it...

I'm going to price this out and possibly use the Stillen equal length Y as a mold and start making these myself, or have them made. But this won't happen till after October. Not to mention I'm a bit tied up at the moment making CF parts.

LOL

 

equal length y-pipes dont exist no teasing allowed her

 

if thats not a joke then i'm in hands down. paypal, cash, contract w/e... i want that proper vq sound soo badly

there was talk about this here in the 3rd gen http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ipe-w-vid.html

post #289 is what i'm looking for, that sort of piece welded to my wsp. his sound clip is also cool, by being equal even the vg sounds similar to a vq35.

you make cf parts? i'm listening what do you make? cf: because race car lol

 

Thanks for all the advice, i will get the exact codes tomorrow and let yall know, and go from there.

 

I own an equal length... and am never giving it up...


But maintenance before mods my good friend!

 

sorry internet has been down and there are a slew of things that came up

p0400 egr valve
p0150 o2 sensor bank2 sensor 1
p0325 Knock sensor
p0130 o2 sensor

 

They do exist. OBX-R V2

 

NONE for sale at the moment. saw a set for $450 in shop in NY but they don't ship. i think you grabbed the last of the batch or something... i'm visa-ing it the first moment i see it again on ebay they sound DELICIOUS on your car LOL