Electrical problem, Dash status/diagnostic light flash on intermittently
#1
Electrical problem, Dash status/diagnostic light flash on intermittently
Dash status/diagnostic light flash on intermittently
Ok, This is really driving me nuts. I have a loaded 1999 I30t, no mods and 165k mi. It has been well cared for. There are no codes, everything works.
While driving, occasionally, I have two main symptoms:
1) ABS & TCS lights blink on and the bose speaker amplifiers seem to lose power (cd player continues playing). 2) The brake and battery light flash on. 3) sometimes these happen simultaneously. During these incidents, I also have noticed the headlights appear to dim very slightly, also this appears more likely to occur at night.
I think something may be shorting out, but I don't know what...
Can anyone help or suggest something to check.
Unrelated to this problem (although I had hoped it would fix it) I have replaced the battery and the positive battery cables
Thanks,
Rob.
Ok, This is really driving me nuts. I have a loaded 1999 I30t, no mods and 165k mi. It has been well cared for. There are no codes, everything works.
While driving, occasionally, I have two main symptoms:
1) ABS & TCS lights blink on and the bose speaker amplifiers seem to lose power (cd player continues playing). 2) The brake and battery light flash on. 3) sometimes these happen simultaneously. During these incidents, I also have noticed the headlights appear to dim very slightly, also this appears more likely to occur at night.
I think something may be shorting out, but I don't know what...
Can anyone help or suggest something to check.
Unrelated to this problem (although I had hoped it would fix it) I have replaced the battery and the positive battery cables
Thanks,
Rob.
#3
When the Alternator has a problem, it's normally everything that goes haywire at the same time, because the alternator effects all systems simultaneously. Right now I am getting two specific areas which are being effected by an intermittent issue, but not necessarily at the same time.
I think it's a short or a loose wire, but I really don't know where to look for the problem.
Any other thoughts would really help
Thanks,
Rob.
#4
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Check the battery cables, both ends.
Check the wiring at the alternator.
Makes sure the belt it tight.
Check the alternator output under load - have it tested.
Battery and Brake lights on means charging system is failing.
The others items are simply having trouble operating under a low voltage condition.
Check the wiring at the alternator.
Makes sure the belt it tight.
Check the alternator output under load - have it tested.
Battery and Brake lights on means charging system is failing.
The others items are simply having trouble operating under a low voltage condition.
#6
Check the battery cables, both ends.
Check the wiring at the alternator.
Makes sure the belt it tight.
Check the alternator output under load - have it tested.
Battery and Brake lights on means charging system is failing.
The others items are simply having trouble operating under a low voltage condition.
Check the wiring at the alternator.
Makes sure the belt it tight.
Check the alternator output under load - have it tested.
Battery and Brake lights on means charging system is failing.
The others items are simply having trouble operating under a low voltage condition.
Last edited by bobflood; 09-04-2012 at 11:09 AM.
#7
While I appreciate the advice about alternators, I really think it is a ground or wiring fault. I have experienced alternator failures on my 95 Max and 99 I30, so I am very familiar with the symptoms. This is not the same. That being said, I am going to drop it off at the service station today and have them check the alternator, battery and anything else they can think of.
1) When the dash light flash, my headlights got significantly brighter, not dimmer.
2) I recently had a problem with the front driver turn signal. I was getting a fast blink on the turn signal. Also, when the hazard lights were engaged it would be on during the off cycle (ie. when the passenger side light was on, the driver side was off and when the passenger side was off, it was on) removing and re-inserting the bulb appeared to fix the problem. ( I did replace the bulb and the flasher module anyway).
Note: I knew my positive battery cable was bad, so I replaced it plus the two attached terminal wires in the hope that it would fix the problem.
At this point, I expect the problem is a bad relay or ground, I just don't know where.
SVI30 - Thanks for the suggestion one the BOSE GND. I will check that tonight!
Has anyone experienced other wiring faults or possibly relay failures? Are there any common ground points to check.
I would also appreciate your thoughts on whether this is a short or an open ground. Right now, I am leaning toward 'open ground'.
Thanks!
Rob.
Last edited by robsst; 08-28-2012 at 04:25 AM.
#9
I dropped off the Car at my local service station. He's going to check the battery and alternator. He agrees that the symptoms I describe point to a ground problem instead.
He's going to check to Neg terminal ground and a couple of other spots.
Rob.
He's going to check to Neg terminal ground and a couple of other spots.
Rob.
#10
Can anyone tell me the most common points where grounding issues occur on the 4th gens?
I had my service station test the battery and the alternator. He also flushed and filled my transmission fluid, 'cause it's not been done in a while.
All was good and he could find no problems. I talked to the owner/head mechanic and he said he thought it was a ground problem as well.
If you can help me identify grounding points it would really help!
Thanks,
Rob.
#12
Im going with a mixture of both alternator and ground. Grounds suck in a 4th gen plain and simple and unless your shop put in an OEM Alternator then it could very likely be going bad as well. Power can surge with it going bad it doesn't just have to dim but a voltage regulator will nip that in the bud. Ask your shop what brand alternator they used and I guarantee you it was a brand you could get at the auto parts stores. Unless you did the work yourself you can not be sure. Grounds to check: Follow negative battery to in front of radiator/front valve cover, grind that fresh with a Dremel($20 at wal-mart great tool). Starter ground. Lastly, if you do not want problems in the future I would highly recommend you add in a true frame ground. Its the only one you need in addition to a new starter ground or additional. GL
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