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homemade torque link (pics)

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Old 11-22-2012, 10:34 AM
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homemade torque link (pics)

What do you guys think?
Total cost is less than $20. Little bit of welding and drilling and grinding involved.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:49 AM
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Sounds good but...Where are the pics?
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:50 AM
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:56 AM
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No pictures...


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Old 11-22-2012, 11:09 AM
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I think it looks good, if you had some ics:
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:12 AM
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Triangulated front strut brace anchored to firewall and UIM??? Just throwing that idea out there.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by asand1
Triangulated front strut brace anchored to firewall and UIM??? Just throwing that idea out there.
I'd be weary of anchoring it to the uim if you dont have solid motor mounts.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:20 PM
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Any pics of it installed on your car?
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:45 PM
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Yea im trying to ser some pics. I might wanna do one for my car after I replaced my motor mount on the passenger side. Hey snypa my car is fix thank god lol
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:49 PM
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put up some pics for us
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:51 PM
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Yea mounting to the UIM could easily crack it
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe
Yea mounting to the UIM could easily crack it
Especially if its plastic......
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Product_Of_Korea
Especially if its plastic......
if what is plastic?
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:21 PM
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The UIM.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:12 AM
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Plastic=00vi...
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:27 AM
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no pics = fail.
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:50 AM
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si si I didn't think about that. I cant think of any solid mount near the UIM that would be good for triangulation. Just the firewall like everyone else uses
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:07 AM
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Sorry guys Im using phone app and I couldn't upload the pic. I'll put one up tomorrow morning
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:13 AM
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excuses excuses
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:14 AM
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The rear of the UIM has a factory mount on the back for those that don't know. I also believe if you were to triangulate to that point it would crack the UIM under hard driving only because the engine mounts would still be mushy causing a lot of stress on that mounting point. Can you imagine wheel hop with something like that, it would be interesting to see what happens. Look into poly mounts.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:21 PM
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Nice no pics ,ahhhhhhhhhhhh!
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:25 PM
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Last edited by Pavell88; 11-25-2012 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:31 PM
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take the picture with your cell phone. send in a picture message to your email. download to your computer. host it on a hosting website, and then post to the board. its that simple.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by GGENIUS
take the picture with your cell phone. send in a picture message to your email. download to your computer. host it on a hosting website, and then post to the board. its that simple.
thanks, im messing with it right now
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:35 PM
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http://forums.maxima.org/album.php?albumid=7349
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Pavell88
OP do you know how to post pics? You have photobucket and it's pretty simple

Go to your photobucket and copy your "direct link"
Come back here and paste it here ""

Make sure where you're pasting there's not "http" because your direct link already has it
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:26 PM
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:27 PM
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:27 PM
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:28 PM
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finally. thanks guys for your help. first time posting pix
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:31 PM
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This thread was funny, and then... PICTURE! LOL

How is the frame-end of the engine brace mounted? Can't figure it out from these pics. On the 5th gen, there are 4 separate M6 bolts used for the frame plate from NWP, which itself is a seriously sturdy piece of design. And considering what's going on here, it would have to be.


Last edited by Rochester; 11-25-2012 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
This thread was funny, and then... PICTURE! LOL

How is the frame-end of the engine brace mounted? Can't figure it out from these pics. On the 5th gen, there are 4 separate M6 bolts used for the frame plate from NWP, which itself is a seriously sturdy piece of design. And considering what's going on here, it would have to be.

metal i used is 0.185 thick and that was probably an overkill but thats what I had laying around. mounted to the frame by 3 bolts you find origionslly holding different brackets( ps lines and wiring harness) Adjustable link is 3/4 thick yes it is adjustble and lock it in place so it doenst come loose. i have about 100 miles on it since i installed it and it works great. very little vibration. Might be hard to judge my pictures but believe me its not going anywhere. Welding such thick metal is probably the hardest part. I used lincoln 125. and like i said less than $20 not including welding and cutting cost.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:04 PM
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Accomplishes the same thing as the NWP but just doesn't look nice in the engine bay IMO, blasphemy to Roc I imagine. If you say it is strong then I can appreciate you doing it yourself. Did you use NWP's design as a springboard? Be honest.....obviously it is really the only place to mount it but still, oddly similar especially the bracket that goes on top of the engine mount itself lol, same shape and everything.

P.S. I really feel bad for you northern guys as that rust is terrible
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe
P.S. I really feel bad for you northern guys as that rust is terrible
Rust can be cleaned and painted. Rusty nuts & bolts can be replaced.

Somehow I don't think engine bling is high on the OP's list of priorities. And that's reasonable for an old sedan and a limited budget.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe
Accomplishes the same thing as the NWP but just doesn't look nice in the engine bay IMO, blasphemy to Roc I imagine. If you say it is strong then I can appreciate you doing it yourself. Did you use NWP's design as a springboard? Be honest.....obviously it is really the only place to mount it but still, oddly similar especially the bracket that goes on top of the engine mount itself lol, same shape and everything.

P.S. I really feel bad for you northern guys as that rust is terrible
lol
of course I used NWP design. Yea it doesnt look as godd but to be honest I bet I can make connecting ends little differently and itll look much better. Also i used steel and not aluminum so I coulds just leave it as is so I painted it wrinkly black. If you can weld aluminum and dig around the hardware store long enough to find nice looking link and stuff, you can make it look great. Or just buy NWP one. Im always happy to support a good company and always encourage people to do the same. But when I think I can make something myself for very low cost.... i couldnt resist to try to make one myself. Its been a fun project.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Rust can be cleaned and painted. Rusty nuts & bolts can be replaced.

Somehow I don't think engine bling is high on the OP's list of priorities. And that's reasonable for an old sedan and a limited budget.
Yup Im got going for looks right not. Rust isnt bad at all. Just them bolts and brackets like you said make it look bad. and yes im taking cheap route. Dont feel like dumping money into this thing. Ill make sure it looks good and runs great, and runs 12s I cheaply swaped vq35 in, lower 2 inches ( with nissan sentra struts) did some body work and welding myself. Learned a lot and had a ton of fun. Great project over all.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:42 PM
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good job bro , nice lil upgrade
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:46 PM
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Props for DIY!
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:17 AM
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Nice
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:20 PM
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Torque link? Where

All I see is red RTV.... You know they make grey RTV.


All kidding aside, it looks decent enough.
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