Hey, this is a follow to an older thread I had. My car was misfiring and not throwing any codes..people suggested that it was injectors and told me to try the chevron fuel cleaner and it got rid of the symptoms for that tank of gas. As I was warned, it came back with a vengeance. It's a whole lot worse now... My car back fires as I accelerate numerous times in a lower gear if I go near half throttle at low rpms.. My car has a straight pipe exhaust so it is a loud backfire and quite annoying, as well as the car stuttering an not acting like it wants to go. Is this all caused by my fuel injectors? I'm about to buy injectors, fuel rail and fuel regulator but wanna make sure it isn't something else before I make the purchase. Thanks ahead of time!

 

Forgive me, I use mobile version and it sucks so imma ask a couple questions that may have been asked/answered in your previous thread

Are your coils/spark plugs good? Does the engine start up normal? I also think you should replace fuel regulator.

 

My car was occaisionally stumbling...I knew it was a coil but with no check engine light I didn't know which one. So I slowly replaced each coil one by one using some spare used OEM coils i have. I eventually found it was coil number 2. Took me a week, but I found it. You should do the same thing.

 

Likely a misfire is coming from an ignition issue so I second checking them. Run the engine and unplug each coil one at a time. Once you unplug one, if the engine stutters and idles worse then that coil is good. If you unplug it and nothing happens then that coil is likely bad or the wiring is bad. Dont forget to check the clips. I had a bad one causing a misfire and Im glad I didnt buy a new OEM coil when I could get a clip at the PAP.

 

Do this but don't automatically buy a new one first switch a "good" one there and test again if again it doesn't do anything then it's most likely an injector

 

Try changing out all your spark plugs first. I had the same problem and almost bought new injectors also. I was using autolite and switched to ngk and problem solved.



Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

 

I think I'm just going to buy the injector pack I found. Probably going to get new coils and spark plugs so I have a full tune up and hopefully that fixes it.

How do I know if the coil injector clips are bad?

 

WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THIS DEAL?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=49602202174

 

Not a bad purchase as one injector cost $130 OEM so you are getting a deal there. Just make sure the FPR is good or swap out your current one.

 

I think you should troubleshoot the car like people suggested instead of throwing money at it...

If you are set on buying those, then test them in a jar and sell the good ones you do not need to .org members.

 

Unfortunately I don't have a lot of time to troubleshoot. I will try the coil packs by in plugging them but I can't really test my injectors more than I have. The techron realt clears it up but it always comes back.

And what do you mean testing in a jar? My old ones or new ones?

 

My indie bought a '99 Max for his daughter that had a SES light on (as mine does). He replaced coils with ones from NAPA, but SES light still on. He calls a Nissan dealer & they tell him that that model year uses an "updated" coil that will stop the SES light from coming on & that any other non-OEM replacememt coil will turn on the SES light. My '98 has the same symptoms with NAPA replacement coils (SES light on, stuttering on accelleration, sometimes low idle speed) so I wonder if this OEM-only ignition coil thing is valid.

Any of you guys hear of this or is this just dealer crap?

 

Did you verify the codes being thrown by the light were for the ignition coils only? As for the coils, OEM is the way to go.

 

I cant speak to the accuracy of that statement but the Nissan replacement coils for cylinders 1,3, and 5 are slightly different than the originals I took out. Sadly, coils are something you MUST go OEM on. Aftermarket coils are cheap for a reason and the only ones the engine likes are OEM Nissan. Its not a total crapshoot though because they will last you another 10+ years.

 

Thanks guys! I agree that OEM is the best way to go, but I'm like 160 miles from the nearest dealer. That's why we all depend on Napa, CarQuest, etc. out here. But is there really an "updated" coil that if not installed, causes a SES light & all the attendant problems with the ECM?

 

Go OEM used and get a bunch for like $30 each.

car-part.com

 

After market coils trigger an SES almost everytime due to improper resistance value in the primary winding. There is no "update", aftermarket coils just don't work right. OEM new or used, that is all.

 

This sums it all up for you. Get to a junkyard...

 

+1

 

thanks again, guys. I'll see what I can find online. Are Hanshin's OK?