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help with grounding kit

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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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help with grounding kit

I just made my own grounding kit with the five grounding wires for my 1995 se. 4 gauge wire and good connectors. After I installed the kit on the car, it seemed to not run as good. I have a air/fuel gauge hooked up to the front 02 sensor and the car seems to run a little more rich. Also another thing I noticed is the car doesnt start better in the cold.


I tried driving it for a few days to see if maybe to ecu had to relearn something and I cleaned the iavc today and tried adjusting the screw again.

If anyone has some suggestions that would be great. Thanks.
Old Dec 18, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Dwolniak
I just made my own grounding kit with the five grounding wires for my 1995 se. 4 gauge wire and good connectors. After I installed the kit on the car, it seemed to not run as good. I have a air/fuel gauge hooked up to the front 02 sensor and the car seems to run a little more rich. Also another thing I noticed is the car doesnt start better in the cold.


I tried driving it for a few days to see if maybe to ecu had to relearn something and I cleaned the iavc today and tried adjusting the screw again.

If anyone has some suggestions that would be great. Thanks.
Show us your grounding kit and how you installed it. Without details and/or pics, it's going to be hard to help you and troubleshoot.

Typically, A/F gauges are wideband and have their own dedicated wideband O2 sensor that you install downstream after the 'Y' and before the cat. You don't just "hook them up to the front O2 sensor" as you said. Our O2 sensors are narrowband. If you got a narrowband A/F gauge, it's nearly worthless.

I hope you're following the FSM when your monkeying with the IACV screw...
Old Dec 18, 2012 | 10:55 PM
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I can take pictures of the everything tomorrow. I followed the procedure on how to adjust the iavc screw. I got a sunpro air/fuel gauge and installed it the the front o2 closest to the front of the car.
Old Dec 19, 2012 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dwolniak
I can take pictures of the everything tomorrow. I followed the procedure on how to adjust the iavc screw. I got a sunpro air/fuel gauge and installed it the the front o2 closest to the front of the car.
Kinda sounds like to you took out the OEM o2 sensor and installed your wideband o2 sensor? Yes/no? If so, that's why you're having problems. You can't just yank upstream o2 sensors. LOL

http://www.amazon.com/Sunpro-CP8200-.../dp/B000FJQWS0
If this is your gauge, or something like it, it's narrowband and useless.
Old Dec 19, 2012 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Kinda sounds like to you took out the OEM o2 sensor and installed your wideband o2 sensor? Yes/no? If so, that's why you're having problems. You can't just yank upstream o2 sensors. LOL

http://www.amazon.com/Sunpro-CP8200-.../dp/B000FJQWS0
If this is your gauge, or something like it, it's narrowband and useless.
Yeah that's the gauge I have. I have all oem o2 sensors in. I spliced the wire on the plug that sends the voltage to the ecu to the gauge.
Old Dec 19, 2012 | 11:55 PM
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heres a link to my album with the grounding kit pictures

http://s1338.beta.photobucket.com/us...51865443483656
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 12:00 AM
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With regards to the picture with the cable connected to the battery, where does the other end connect?

Everything else looks good.

Glad to hear you didn't yank your OEM o2 sensor, but tapped in to it.
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 12:05 AM
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The cable connected to the battery goes behind the driver headlight to the ground on the fender(right behind the fuse box) I have a video I can upload tomorrow of how the hard start is in the cold. I noticed i was really low on oil yesterday and put some in and that helped a little bit, but still would like to figure out why its harsh start when cold, but ok when warm.
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 01:26 AM
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Why would the grounding kit make your car run bad? Take off the kit and see if the car starts running better. If it does, something is wrong with your wires or you hook them up somewhere they should not be. If it does not run better the issue is elsewhere.
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 04:35 AM
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heres a link to my album with the grounding kit pictures
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 06:56 AM
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It looks like you have the grounds at the right places, but I think you might have high expectations of your grounding kit. It helps the electrons flow better, but its not going to make a drastic improvement. Also, don't go by the narrowband gauge...they're completely useless as mentioned before.
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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But why would you use the af reading from only 1 bank of the engine? This is how I'm understanding your wb02 placement. I have mine after the y pipe has merged, so basically in the collector Before the flex.pipe
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:10 AM
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Nvm just reread its narrow band :S lol no offence but why would you get this?
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 07:48 AM
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Well at the time, I didnt know the difference between narrowband and wideband ones and just installed it. It has helped me with somethings, but after the grounding kit I dont know why the gauge would start reading different?


heres a video....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vf-Rc8MAQl0


If the car is really warm it isnt as bad, but the gauge is more jumpy and gets closer to the rich. before it was a steady read and when crusiing it would only get to about the half way point on the ideal section.

dirty grounds on the kit?
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 02:56 PM
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your grounds are fine. That gauge is crap. I had one in an integra when I was 17...kept it for about a week then took it out... If you're serious about hooking up your car, make sure a wideband oxygen sensor is your first purchase. There's plenty to choose from. I got an Innovate for about $180 shipped.
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 03:02 PM
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Why people don't just ground the alt and the starter TO THE FRAME I will never understand
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 06:43 PM
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I just followed the kit instructions
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 07:34 PM
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Just double check the connections on your factory connections, the neg battery cable going to the frame make sure you sand the connection and the terminal. Also sand your battery terminals and battery clamps. The little things can add up and this has always worked for me. Don't trust the connection from the negative battery cable to the frame since that wire likes to corrode, I have a double connection there.
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by maxgtr2000
Just double check the connections on your factory connections, the neg battery cable going to the frame make sure you sand the connection and the terminal. Also sand your battery terminals and battery clamps. The little things can add up and this has always worked for me. Don't trust the connection from the negative battery cable to the frame since that wire likes to corrode, I have a double connection there.
Yeah maybe taking things apart and then putting it back together messed with the connections on the factory wires, I'll check them and clean them
Old Dec 22, 2012 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dwolniak
If the car is really warm it isnt as bad, but the gauge is more jumpy and gets closer to the rich. before it was a steady read and when crusiing it would only get to about the half way point on the ideal section.
On cold starts its normal for a more harsh start. But shouldn't too harsh. And running rich during a cold start is also normal.
Old Dec 29, 2012 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Climaxx
On cold starts its normal for a more harsh start. But shouldn't too harsh. And running rich during a cold start is also normal.
I know a harder start is more normal in the winter, but it hasnt been like this ever. Running rich makes sense, the car is trying to warm itself up. I have been averaging 22-23 mpg per tank this month. I was getting about 26 in the summer and fall. Is that normal?
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