Im about to replace the MAF on my 98 Maxima but im reading that i will need to reset my ECU or my car might not run good or at all after. Can someone please tell me how to reset the ECU...ive read something about disconnecting the battery for awhile????? Thanks in advance

 

Mine ran fine. All I did was disconnect the battery and let it warm up at idle before driving. Easy stuff.

 

Did you disconnect battery before replacing or after??

 

BEFORE. The only real reason to wait a while when disconnecting your battery is if your working on or near your airbag, iirc.
Just pull your negative off and swap out, then reconnect.

 

Thanks for the info

 

Your very welcome. Thanks for the thank you. Lol

 

+1 to what Fakie said. Replacement took all of 20 minutes. Also, look very carefully at the thick rubber gasket between the MAF and the throttle body (Nissan calls it an isolator). I needed to replace that also - cost about $12 or so at dealer. Good luck.

 

look at how well the children are playing together.

 

Update


Replaced maf and at first idle car was not idling normal then revved to 3500 rpm n engine shuddered like before at 2500.....battery was not connected while replacement was done hoping that would reset the ecu

After letting the car warm up the initial problem of engine shudder at 2500 rpm returned....the issue seems to be when the car completely warms up .....any further advice would be appreciated Thanks

 

I know, right? Lol

 

Uh oh.

What was the reason you decided to replace your MAF?
Did you have a code?

 

have you cleaned the maf yet???

 

It was a new maf ....aftermarket part

 

If it is not too late, and your sure it's your MAF, keep your receipt and put a WTB in the classifieds for a used OEM.
Much cheaper, and better.
Unless anyone else disagrees..?
Also, clean your MAF even if new. Make sure you use MAF specific cleaner.
Keep us updated.

 

Thanks i will try that

 

+1 for an OEM MAF; rebuilt OEMs are available on the internet. I paid about $160 from autopartsexpress.com just under two years ago; other than having to chase them to get my core refund it was a fine experience. I also replace the isolator - about $15 from Nissan. No problems since. Good luck.

 

So in your opinion MAF from Ebay are no good..should be a OEM?

 

Yep. Based on what I have heard here over the last couple of years, plus my own experience, I would only use a new or remanufactured OEM MAF. If you can find one like that on Ebay, no problem.

 

Why did you replace the MAF? Was there an error code/check engine light on?
This "shudder" only happens at 2500, but does the engine run up past 2500?
Could this be a misfire your feeling? If so, it's not your MAF, start looking at the coils.

You don't have to reset or clear any codes for the engine to run correctly after a defective part is replaced.

 

I was honestly taking the advice from some of the people on the forum....
I main problem Ive notice is as the car warms up the shudder occurs from 4000-3500 and completely warm at 2500 rpm... at this point it will not go pass 2500 (this is while the car is in park)

Ill have my mechanic look into the coils as a prob this weekend and no i didnt use a scanner...Thanks for the feedback