Fender Finisher
Fender Finisher
Does anyone have any input based on experience with this?http://www.eastwood.com/fender-finisher-1.html
I'm currently on 18x8.5 wheels lowered on D2's. I cannot go as low as I'd like due to tire rubbing. My fitment isn't entirely extreme so I don't think I need to roll the fenders, I just want to get rid of the "lip" on the inside of the fenders and give it a shot. What do you guys think?
I'm currently on 18x8.5 wheels lowered on D2's. I cannot go as low as I'd like due to tire rubbing. My fitment isn't entirely extreme so I don't think I need to roll the fenders, I just want to get rid of the "lip" on the inside of the fenders and give it a shot. What do you guys think?
Get an aluminum bat and do just as good a job. Wedge the small end between the lip and tire and have someone you trust slowly drive forward and reverse while you apply pressure downwards. Repeat as many times as needed while using a thicker section of the bat each time to get the desired clearance and the look your after.
Andy
Andy

Ive used the Eastwood fender roller and had no issues,as have a lot of other members here.
You have to warm the paint up to soften it and then go slow, rolling a little bit at a time untill you get the lip to your liking. I rolled mine completely flat.
^^ thats a nice tool. as everyone said, your paint will most likely crack at the edge. even if you cant see it, there will most likely be cracks. they WILL lead to rust later on. so def be prepared to paint.
You HAVE to warm the paint up for sure though.
See post #3 in my thread. This tool worked great. Our lips are very, very rigid. Each lip took about 30 minutes to do. I do not see the fender finisher working or the ol' bat trick for our particular lips. Now, on my friends Audi S4, the lips are so thin you can bend it with your hand, this type of lip is what I believe the fender finisher is meant to do.
http://forums.maxima.org/members-rid...g35c-rims.html
No cracks on mine either. Plenty of heat, and took my time rolling the fenders with multiple passes.
I also own the actual rolling tool that flava posted. It works well. I only cracked my paint where I had a bunch of bondo
It does cost a lot more than the tool you posted, but it also does a very nice job.
It does cost a lot more than the tool you posted, but it also does a very nice job.
Good info, I suppose there's a reason nobody has used the original tool on our cars. Was seeing if it'd be worth a shot. I refuse to use a bat! Has anyone rented a roller before? Any reputable websites for them? Any ball park estimates on how much a body shop would charge to do it? Thanks guys
Andy
I paid $125 at a small shop a few months ago to have both rear fenders rolled. They used a heat gun and the fender rolling tool and I didn't have any paint cracks. You can also search craigslist for people renting out the tool or who might be able do the service for a little cheaper.
ok cool. im just sayin ive worked iwth PDR guys, and even they say, theres practically no way to do PDR or roll fenders, with heat, and not get microscopic cracks in the paint. he said it wont do anything now, but when the paint starts to fail, those spots are where it will rust or peel first.
I suppose you could buy the tool, then just resell it when done to the next renter.
How does that tool work? Once you set it up, do you just move it front to back manually, over and over as you tighten it up?
How does that tool work? Once you set it up, do you just move it front to back manually, over and over as you tighten it up?
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