Please read the whole post, or at least read the notes at the bottom for important info.

Now, this isn't just slap some new pads on there and drive away. I'll go over almost the whole brake system (located at the wheels, not going into master brake cylinder, abs, etc.)

Tools:
10 mm wrench (bleeder screw)
14 mm wrench (caliper bolts)
19 mm wrench (caliper assembly bolts)
21 mm impact wrench (lug nuts)

Fluids/Chemicals/Grease:


Parts:
Brake pads, rotors, calipers, brake lines, etc. (as needed).

0) READ THE NOTES AT THE BOTTOM

1) Pop the hood and clean off master cylinder reservoir


2) Jack up vehicle and remove wheel


3) Remove lower (14mm) bolt for the caliper


4) Flip caliper upwards


5) Remove brake pads

6) Remove upper (14 mm) bolt for the caliper. Place caliper on something as too not damage or stretch the brake lines.

7) Remove the slide pins. Clean old grease off


8) Remove caliper mounting assembly (2 19mm bolts). Then take it off the rotor.



9) Clean caliper and caliper assembly with brake cleaner. The assembly has two metal clips that keep the pads in place. They easily pop out.


8) Remove and inspect the rotor for uneven wear



9)Inspect hub, rotor backplate, and brake lines for wear and tear. Then clean the parts.



10) Grease the brake piston. OPEN THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR. Then use a pace of wood and c-clamp to push the piston back in. Close the master cylinder reservoir.


11) Install rotor

 

12) Grease slid pins


13) Install caliper mounting assembly, slid pins, and brake pad clips, and pads


14) Install caliper

15) Open the bleeder screw and pump the brakes until the master cylinder reservoir is ALMOST empty. Add new DOT 3 or higher brake fluid. Pump brakes until clean fluid comes out. Close the bleeder screw and master cylinder.


16) Install wheel. Lower vehicle.

17) Repeat for all wheels.

Notes:
You DO NOT have to pump the master cylinder reservoir until it is almost empty for the rest of the brakes. You do this once to get the old fluid out.
Its always debatable whether you start at the furthest or closest wheel from the master cylinder when bleeding the brakes. I prefer to start at the closest.
If you pump the reservoir empty take it to a shop. If air gets in the master cylinder there is a very specific way to fix it (bench bleeding).
New rotors come with a chemical rust inhibitor on them. You can spray it off with brake cleaner.
The slide top slide pin has grooves on it. The lower one is smooth:

 

I cannot believe your not using 6 point sockets on this job, especially on the torque member.

 

Great write up

 

This is not totally correct for the rear brakes so you may want to add this into your write up. For the rears, you need to turn the caliper piston NOT just push it in with a clamp like the front. Other than that Love that you have pics for people like me who need to see pics.

 

Very good write-up. From what I can see here, for your brake line to be rubbed down and your baffle plate to be getting rubbed away, you must be using some large wheels on your car correct? I have the 03 SE on mine and I am getting rubbing from baffle plate but not the brake line...that's dangerous....were you missing the clip??

 

The brake line probably rubbed when the wheel was turned all the way left. Tires are 215/60-16 I believe. Stock for the SE I think is 215/55-16.

When I started this I was also going to paint the calipers again.

 

^^No way. You have stock wheels and your lines were rubbing when turning all the way left?? Something is wrong man...definitely something is out of whack..

 

Don't brakes require the use of special brake grease/lube. Or is Valvoline synthetic grease that the OP using just as good?

 

Great write up. When I put on my new rear rotor and pads, and bolt everything down, my caliper with the pads are sliding a little. I made sure everything is tight but they still shake. Then I put the wheel back on and drove the car around but it makes this horrible rattling sound when I go over a bump. When I apply the brake the rattling stops. I did everything in your guide. Any idea what's up?

Thanks,
Scott

 

your next write-up should be, " how to clean under the hood "

 

i think videos are easier to follow to me, thanks anyway OP

 

Good job man..now clean the engine bay that thing is filthy

 

is it just me or do some op just keep the car running and others keep it "clean" and running? i mean, how do you know when you have a problem and you can't see the fluid level or where the leak is? my .02c

 

 

Thanks for the excellent photos and description! Gonna do my rotors and pads today. What kind of grease do you use for the slider pins?

 

Ideally you'd use a silicone based lube (don't google that). You can find it at Autozone, Advanced Auto, etc. I happened to have some Vavoline fully synthetic which I used.

Anytime you lube or grease a rubber object you want to use something that's not petrol based, because it will eat rubber.

 

K thanks. Turns out one of my front caliper pins was seized. I suspected it as I've had fast brake wear and a lot of noises for a while. Searching forum now for tips....

Does anyone know if Autozone sells or rents the tool to turn the rear pistons? I assume a C-clamp won't work on the rears.

 

They won't work, I used channel locks to turn mine but it took forever. AZ should have the tool

 

Yes, almost any auto parts store will have one. Mine is a metal cube, about 1+ inches on a side. Each side has a square hole in the middle for a 3/8" extension and a pair of nubs - each side has different size/spacing of the nubs. Use the side with the nubs that fit the slots in your caliper piston face and use a ratchet handle to turn the piston in. I have had mine for decades; but my son just bought one so I know they are still out there - cost him 8 or 10 bucks. Good luck.

 

LOL

 

good write up man!! I had to replace my master cylinder in my 3rd gen once, and had to bleed all 4 wheels by myself, a great learning experience lol.