S1cTech

Last fall. Starting to get the clicking snapping scrape sound when driving and turning at certain angles, didn't think it was anything I could of broken the bank for. Anyway. It started to get really bad a month back to the point of scraping while just driving stright so I knew my wheel bearing was shot.

I took it into my uncle's shop. It had no castle clip on it, just the cotter pin so I figured the nut was getting loose this way without that castle head on there. SO my uncle said. It probably just needs to be tighted. I did that, and it was Extremely better, but at turns you could still hear and feel the scraping but only slightly this time. I knew the bearing had to be replaced regardless.


So I than went to work on it last week. Replaced it, pressed it out. It fell apart when taking it out so it was indeed done. I also replaced the Axle for good measure just in case, and everything seemed all fine right? Well nope...

Just 3 days ago. It started to make the sound again. Mostly on a right turn. WTF? A BRAND NEW bearing and axle and this is gonna do this to me? Did my bearing go again? Did my uncle perhaps press it in wrong to make it do this? (he wanted to do it lol) Or is the nut losing again? I went to nissan and made sure I got the Castle caps this time and put them on with brand new Heavy duty Pins as well

I am not sure what is going on. I know TQ specs are 275 to 300lbs and the washer is there. Maybe there needs to be another washer? The only thing I think it could be is a bad hub. The hub could be so bad that it is either ruining the bearing or cause the nut to loosen. I don't see how a 300 pound tightened Axle nut could loosen!!!! and on top of that. I been getting snap sound when shifting. Sounds like my balljoint but my balljoint is pretty new and was VERY tight.


Please help. Only thing I could think of is a bad hub or a defective bearing?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

I would lean towards replacing the spindle then as it may have warped from driving with bad bearings for a while. Those nuts don't back out that easily and I never had an issue with it backing out with safety pin in it.

S1cTech

Well I know the Axle "acts" as the spindle per se. So really it is just the outer hub that probably needs to be replaced.

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

right turn is most likely the driver's side bearing and/or other suspension. which side did you replace?
when you take a turn, you load the opposite side of the car. you can quickly test a bearing by going at a higher rate of speed and make slight turns with the steering wheel. you will feel a knocking type of noise from a bad bearing.
cv axles can be tested in a parking lot by doing full turns in either direction. you'll hear the axles "click."

cjanderson3

I had that problem, not sure why. I tightened the hell out of it (prolly a bit more than the spec a bit) and bought the nut retainer things that most cars have, but our's don't come with for some reason. They've stayed tight ever since

Good luck

asand1

iTrader: (1)

There should be a retainer, they do come stock with them.

If the bearing got bad enough the hub will be damaged to the point that the inner races will be loose enough to shift and ruin the bearings again.

New hub, new bearing, and get a retainer.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

torque spec for the axle nut is 174 to 231 lb ft, not 275 to 300. But I doubt that the higher torque would make any difference.

S1cTech

yeah we had to cut the inner race off the hub because it exploded when it was pressed lol

S1cTech

oh and the retainer is what I kept referring to as the "castle cap" lol I just wasn't sure what it was called but I got 2 brand new ones and my maxima didn't have them either when I got the car and was fine without them for a long time. hell the Driver side didn't even have one until I put it on and I also put on the foam washer before it. I guess it is for noise purposes.

I can't see a brand new bearing going bad but I guess if the hub is bad. This could be. It is also a brand new Axle I put in too. Legit brand new too, Not a rebuilt one. I was shocked that Advanced had new ones and I think the bearing was moog. I would of gotten a Nissan one but my Uncle gets a commercial discount at Advanced so we just did that.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you are referring to parts # 15 & 14, here is an interesting side note.

Those parts are shown in the 95 & 96 FSM. They are left out of the 97, 98 & 99 FSMs.
But they are listed in the parts book for all years of the 4th gen.

Nissan stopped using those parts in 2000 with the 5th gen.

S1cTech

wow really? lol that is really weird...so out cars didn't come stock with them?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

My 97 came with them, even though the FSM doesn't show them. I don't know about later years.

S1cTech

hmm. This is odd. Well I am gonna try to see if a new hub will help

S1cTech

okay, Just took it apart again. And the nut was very lose. I am starting to think it is a bad hub. Also it seems like t he Axle has a little play in it and that to me is very weird. Maybe it was the wrong one? What if I got an auto one? I thought the only difference in axles for all gen 4 maxima's were just the drivers side for LSD or not?

maxima2fst4u

i had the same issue im auto only way i could keep mine from backing off was to stand on the ratchet and bounce then after i broke about 4 ratchets i took a hammer and a little peace of metal i found on the edge of the axel bolt beat it to death i've always had this issue on both sides even after an impact wrench it still backed off

JvG

You mentioned that you tightened the bolt to a much higher torque than is specified. You might have stretched the spindle. If that happened, there would be play there that should not be there.

You might need to replace the spindle.

Just putting the thought out there.... what do other members think?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

I advised the spindle from the second post which should cure the problem.

shaks

iTrader: (15)

you have to consider another thing - transmission side - if it's the output shaft bearing, it would give you the same type of vibration on the other side of the axle which can cause wheel bearing going bad as well

S1cTech

Well it wouldn't surprise me at this point as my Input shaft bearing has been bad f or years, but the pass side does have a contact point in the middle. SO I am thinking the vibration would be stopped there for sure.

Also. As said before. There is no spindle on a front wheel drive car. The axle is "essentially" the spindle. If you guys are referring to the hub, than yea. I probably need a new one lol

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Just a thought.

If you did have the incorrect axle, maybe the threaded portion is not long enough and when the nut seems tight, it is because it is at the end of the threads and not truly being stopped by the hub.

Putting a second washer behind the nut would prove/disprove this far out idea.

S1cTech

Well so far. That Axle came with a castle'd nut and My uncle did the smart thing and bent the cotterpin into one of the grooves, see if it will loosen up now. I think it still will. The washer is in bad shape. I should prob buy 2 new ones. Either way this is def looking like a bad hub.