IACV OEM vs Aftermarket

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Jun 12, 2013 | 06:16 PM
  #1  
- Autozone: Duralast IACV - $146.99 (90 day warranty)

- Napa: Echlin Fuel System IACV - $164.00
(36 Months or 36,000 Miles Whichever Occurs First)

- Courtesy Parts: IACV-AAC VALVE 1995-1998 - $295.05
(1 year warranty)........Site says: This part number is flagged as a Service File by Nissan and may have changed or need additional parts for replacement. Please contact us before ordering!

Not sure what that means...

-Have not called DaveB yet...

I guess my question is has anyone used an aftermarket IACV sucessfully and for how long before it gave you problems or if it is still pushing strong. I know OEM is ideal just want to know any feedback on aftermarket. Why wouldn't you buy one for half the price and a 3 year warranty?

Thanks in advance.
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Jun 12, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #2  
Daveb no longer sells maxima parts
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Jun 12, 2013 | 10:40 PM
  #3  
Quote: Daveb no longer sells maxima parts
Wow really?
Hope he didn't get fired for hooking us up all these years!!

Back to the question at hand, anybody?????????????????
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Jun 13, 2013 | 05:45 AM
  #4  
Quote: - Autozone: Duralast IACV - $146.99 (90 day warranty)

- Napa: Echlin Fuel System IACV - $164.00
(36 Months or 36,000 Miles Whichever Occurs First)

- Courtesy Parts: IACV-AAC VALVE 1995-1998 - $295.05
(1 year warranty)........Site says: This part number is flagged as a Service File by Nissan and may have changed or need additional parts for replacement. Please contact us before ordering!

Not sure what that means...

-Have not called DaveB yet...

I guess my question is has anyone used an aftermarket IACV sucessfully and for how long before it gave you problems or if it is still pushing strong. I know OEM is ideal just want to know any feedback on aftermarket. Why wouldn't you buy one for half the price and a 3 year warranty?

Thanks in advance.
I can't answer specifically since I haven't had an issue on either of my cars.

My general approach is based on labor to change the part. The more labor, the higher the quality of part. I do all my own labor, so it is easier to spend the money on parts. However, when a shop is doing the work, I believe that is an even bigger reason to insist on quality parts.

Generally, I prefer not to use the cheap line of parts that most stores offer - unless it is a really easy repair.

Typically I go with Napa's top of the line parts unless Autozone is selling a particular brand that is known to be excellent (e.g. they sell Timkin wheel bearings).

The only time I use OEM parts is when I have to or no one else makes an acceptable substitute (e.g. oem strut boots).

IMO, going with the cheap line of parts from any of the stores is a recipe for having to do the work over.
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Jun 13, 2013 | 07:25 AM
  #5  
I suggest sticking with OEM. The IACV is complicated even inside the Nissan family. I regularly look at my 98 I30 and my friend's 99 I30. We have 2 completely different IACVs. One has 4 electrical connections to the ECU and the other has 3. Go figure

Plus, someone on here cleaned his out.....it gets gunked up from EGR re-circulation. You could maintain your IACV for a longer life by using TC-W3. One of TC-W3s benefits is to clean out the carbon gunk in your intake system.
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Jun 22, 2013 | 06:04 PM
  #6  
Ok so I thought I would write a conclusion to my problem, in return for the help everyone has given me....

Bought an Airtex IACV on RockAuto for $160 Shipped with a 30 day guarantee, and 1 year warranty.

It turned the check engine light off for both P0505 and P0325.

Cheers for now!!!

Feels like a brand new car. I love it. Also saved $180!!!
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