PasswordIsTaco

Hello all. New to the forum. First car 5 years ago was a 96 maxima, then owned a 2000 camaro ss for 3 years, now back in a 97 Max.

1997 maxima gle, maroon, black leather.

Basically here's what is going on. Around february, I had ignition switch issues. Replaced it, no problem, car acts normal. Then (late march?), the car begins to act bizarre. Clicking relays, radio cutting out when i roll a window down/up or press on the brake pedal, lights dimming/flickering, locks going crazy, you name it it has happened.

The car began to lose all electrical power intermidently, and work fine other times. This issue would seem to only happen when I turn the key from the "ACC" to the "ON" position. With the key at "ACC", car acts normal. As soon as its turned to "ON", no power. Had all the symptoms of a bad ground. Cleaned them, and this did help, but not fully fix the issue. Car was stranded for 2 weeks because it decided to act up as soon as I checked out of my apartment on May 31st, an hour and a half away from my house.

So I buy a grounding kit, install it today, finally get the car running, and get it home. Try starting again and issue is still there. I have noticed that sometimes when the power dies when the key in the "ON" position, either shifting to neutral and/or pressing the brake pedal will kick it back to normal. (Ignition lock cylinder??) I've never been more stumped/frustrated/stressed by a vehicle.

All fuses are good. Battery is tested and good. My dad has a 96 maxima and have switched any fuse or possible cause of the problem you can think of and even the battery itself and still haven't found the problem. Car runs great once running, so can't be the alternator, right?

I would greatly appreciate any help from you guys. I hate bumming rides to work every day. I hate not having a car. I can not emphasize how much I do not want to bring the car to a shop. They'll most likely start fixing sh*t that isn't wrong in the first place, and I don't have a grand for parts that don't need to be fixed. None of my gear head friends have seen anything like this, including one that is ASE certified.

So SEARCHING through the forum for the past month, cuz you guys have this awesome 15 post rule, the car still has the issue.
I really appreciate this site, I love forums, and I know this can be fixed. I am just desperate for some help. I'm this close to pushing it off a cliff.

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

This sounds exactly like an issue I had. Mine would work sometimes. But mostly not at all. My issue was my positive cable on my battery. There was very little corrosion on it. I didn't think anything of it because I've seen some terminals that have been corroded to hell and still work lol. Anyways, I cleaned the **** out of my terminal and sprayed corrosion protectant on it and its been fine ever since. Hope this helps.

You can trace it using a multimeter too. That's what I did. I put it on the post 12.3v. Then on the connector - 9.6v. Lol that's how I determined my issue.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Check all connections at the battery, including the smaller wires. Take the connections completely apart, clean and reassemble. Use a volt meter to check voltage with the car running and off. Use the body or engine as your ground ref.

PasswordIsTaco

Thanks for the replies. I forgot to mention I did try cleaning the terminals. They are squeaky clean so I thought for sure that couldnt be it. I don't own a voltmeter or multimeter, or know how to use it at all for that matter. Where is the cheapest place to buy or rent one? And what do you mean by "all connections at the battery"? I thought there was just the + and - connections...

Sorry if I appear dumb. I'm much more mechanically inclined than electrically.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

There are other wires that are connected to the positive battery cable at the terminal. They come apart from the actual battery wire. Take that apart and clean up the connections.
You can buy a volt meter for 10 bucks at radio shack.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Check the connections on the bottom of the fuse block next to the battery. You will have to unscrew it from the fender to do this. Of course, disconnect the battery before doing this.

PasswordIsTaco

I have checked those spots, although not very thoroughly. I will check again after work. Does anyone think it has to do with the ignition lock cylinder? The majority of my problems come exactly when I turn from "acc" to "on" or vice versa..

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The ignition switch seems not too likely, but it may be sparking as the contacts change as you turn the key. Inside the ignition switch, the contacts just press together and slide on each other as you turn the key. Maybe there isn't enough pressure to keep the contacts in touch with each other?

Without trying another switch, I don't know how you would trouble shoot this theory.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Aftermarket ignition switch? Try OEM.

PasswordIsTaco

Ignition switch is OEM

DBear

Did you find the ground underneath the battery tray?

And look up inside the housing for the battery cables at the connectors. I had one (different car) that I cleaned, but kept cutting out. I finally figured out that the corrosion had worked its way up inside the cable housing.

PasswordIsTaco

I think this was the problem. Took it apart yesterday and was corroded to hell. Tried to replace the red piece with the copper connection in it, but it's a specialty part that no one stocks. Took it all apart and cleaned it all with a wire brush. Car acts normal now, except of course I now have a CEL lol.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Glad that worked out for you. I believe this is the cause of most of the hard starts people experience. Everybody points to the transmission connection to the block, I call BS on that. I had longer cranks as the car aged, when the last battery finally died I noticed the corrosion on those connections. Since they were cleaned up, my longer then usual cranks are gone.

PasswordIsTaco

Yeah I forgot to mention. The only abnormal thing was it has a slightly harder start than usual. I'm probably going to clean everything again when I check my CEL code