4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

i can only assume i should find this deeply troubling?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 4, 2013 | 01:50 PM
  #1  
j-dawg's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 469
i can only assume i should find this deeply troubling?

on my sister's 96

i've been telling her to get rid of this car for ages...was doing the brake pads when i noticed that the ball joint does not appear to be connected to the tie rod. see image:

Name:  6ryT4hg.jpg
Views: 13
Size:  644.8 KB

is this normal? she's been driving the car occasionally and i moved it around on the driveway, so i assume that the joint must have popped open while i was lifting the car. i should note that the axle was replaced a few thousand miles ago (and somehow is already completely rusty???) so the car has been lifted and lowered recently.
Old Jul 4, 2013 | 01:53 PM
  #2  
j-dawg's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 469
wait, that ain't no steering bit. is that a sway bar endlink or something? do i have to freak out? the steering ball joint is rusty, but functional.
Old Jul 4, 2013 | 02:18 PM
  #3  
asand1's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,942
From: Reedsport, OR
Where i live i would call that severe rust and would consider scrapping the car. In new york it might be considered mint, idk.
Old Jul 4, 2013 | 02:23 PM
  #4  
James92SE's Avatar
2 VE's are better than one!
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 7,362
From: Dallas
That's just the sway bar end-link. Not to downplay it, but it's not a grave cause for concern like the actual ball joint would be. That could certainly cause some body roll/control issues under heavy/high speed cornering conditions though. I wouldn't want to be in a high speed emergency swerving situation with the end-link unattached. You do want to fix it sooner rather than later obviously.

And holy rust Batman! Where do you live?
Old Jul 4, 2013 | 02:59 PM
  #5  
j-dawg's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 469
Originally Posted by James92SE
That could certainly cause some body roll/control issues under heavy/high speed cornering conditions though. I wouldn't want to be in a high speed emergency swerving situation with the end-link unattached. You do want to fix it sooner rather than later obviously.

And holy rust Batman! Where do you live?
the struts are totally shot...the sway bar seems like a sort of deck-chairs-on-the-titanic repair

the car is in chicago, where every maxima seems to be made entirely of rust. it's really frustrating how it refuses to give up. i want it to break down catastrophically so she gets rid of it. timing chain failure, cracked oil pan, anything. i always knew it was a POS but after working down there today it seems downright unsafe to me.
Old Jul 4, 2013 | 03:42 PM
  #6  
Trini Boom's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,395
From: Brooklyn, NY
Maintenance here is lacking for sure. Although it is very rusty, that sway bar end link did not just pop out on its own. That's been there soo long that even the rubber boot that is usually around it is completely disintegrated without a trace. Replace them and she should be good to go.
Old Jul 4, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #7  
DennisMik's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,644
From: Plano, TX
Sway bar link kits are not that expensive, $11 at autozone. Replace both sides.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...26775_10302_0_

The sway bar links will wear out on every car, just like the struts do. This is normal maintenance on an old car.

Since this is a snow belt car, check the front cross member that the radiator sits on. If it is rusting out, that is your catastrophic repair that you are so desperately hoping for. This is something like a $1500 repair that needs to be taken care of before the thing gives way completely as the engine is supported by this cross member.
Old Jul 4, 2013 | 03:54 PM
  #8  
max ride 41's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,789
From: in my max, pa. :p
moog on the end links, advanced has them
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 02:54 PM
  #9  
99maxwell's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 262
Originally Posted by DennisMik
Sway bar link kits are not that expensive, $11 at autozone. Replace both sides.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...26775_10302_0_

The sway bar links will wear out on every car, just like the struts do. This is normal maintenance on an old car.

Since this is a snow belt car, check the front cross member that the radiator sits on. If it is rusting out, that is your catastrophic repair that you are so desperately hoping for. This is something like a $1500 repair that needs to be taken care of before the thing gives way completely as the engine is supported by this cross member.
1500? I literally just got my car back from a body shop for the rad support on Wednesday and they only charged me $465

however, different places different prices. that could be your saving grace for your sister to get rid of it, because I know where I live it would have gotten a rejected inspection sticker. My rad support was so bad nobody around me would pass it for inspection.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #10  
deathwobble's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 160
From: slc ut
Originally Posted by j-dawg
on my sister's 96

i've been telling her to get rid of this car for ages...was doing the brake pads when i noticed that the ball joint does not appear to be connected to the tie rod. see image:



is this normal? she's been driving the car occasionally and i moved it around on the driveway, so i assume that the joint must have popped open while i was lifting the car. i should note that the axle was replaced a few thousand miles ago (and somehow is already completely rusty???) so the car has been lifted and lowered recently.
is she going to die driving it with a broken sway bar link? No. And from reading the condition of the car I doubt it will make a noticeable difference in how the car drives if you replace it. How ever in my state that would fail safety inspection and it is a broken part that should be fixed
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 06:31 PM
  #11  
ShocknAwe's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,285
From: Atlanta, Ga
you dont know what an endlink is and you say a 4th gen needs to die? leave
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 08:06 PM
  #12  
Nealoc187's Avatar
SLOW
iTrader: (23)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,617
From: West burbs, Chicago
easy fix, but it might be like putting lipstick on a pig. is the rest of the car completely trashed (suspension, brakes, aesthetics)?

i too have noticed that basically every 4th gen in chicago is rusting away to nothing. meanwhile mine aren't. it's strange.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 08:10 PM
  #13  
Leo_Koneval's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,803
From: Everett, Washington
I have a bottle of rust converter sitting in my trunk if you need some, LOL. But I don't think my one bottle is going to be enough to change all that rustiness into a beautiful black paint-able surfaced after a 24 hour curing time.

But I was surprised how cheap it was, I bought some for the minor rust spots on my car and so far so good. Just got to put in a bit of elbow work and scrub off the loose surface rust.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 08:44 PM
  #14  
tosheto's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,509
From: on a tree
That is a lot of rust. Throw the Moog end links and call it good... at least until something else falls off the car.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 10:17 PM
  #15  
ShocknAwe's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,285
From: Atlanta, Ga
I dont give a damn where you live, surface rust is fine. You let an end link separate? give up and go home
Old Jul 6, 2013 | 11:08 AM
  #16  
asand1's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,942
From: Reedsport, OR
Originally Posted by j-dawg
the struts are totally shot...the sway bar seems like a sort of deck-chairs-on-the-titanic repair

the car is in chicago, where every maxima seems to be made entirely of rust. it's really frustrating how it refuses to give up. i want it to break down catastrophically so she gets rid of it. timing chain failure, cracked oil pan, anything. i always knew it was a POS but after working down there today it seems downright unsafe to me.
A 17 year old car in the rust belt refuses to give up and you call it a POS? Is every car that has used up its' first set of brake pads a POS also, or do you maintain it and keep driving? You're not the first guy on here to have a separated end link and you won't be the last.
Old Jul 6, 2013 | 12:26 PM
  #17  
j-dawg's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 469
Originally Posted by DennisMik
Sway bar link kits are not that expensive, $11 at autozone. Replace both sides....
Since this is a snow belt car, check the front cross member that the radiator sits on. If it is rusting out, that is your catastrophic repair that you are so desperately hoping for. This is something like a $1500 repair that needs to be taken care of before the thing gives way completely as the engine is supported by this cross member.
for $11 i might just do that, seems simple enough.

the rad support has some rust creeping in around the edges, but it's not rotted through, and i can hit it with some POR-15..might be worth doing. i also read something here about grinding out the rusty parts and welding in a 1/8" plate, which seems like a pretty easy fix if it's rusted on just the bottom.

Originally Posted by Nealoc187
easy fix, but it might be like putting lipstick on a pig. is the rest of the car completely trashed (suspension, brakes, aesthetics)?

i too have noticed that basically every 4th gen in chicago is rusting away to nothing. meanwhile mine aren't. it's strange.
totally trashed....it wasn't in great shape when she bought it, but i gave it some work and it's been good to use for about 35k miles. for a total investment of ~2200, that ain't bad. these cars are really good cars - they rattle and squeak like a cage full of steel mice, but they really just keep pounding the pavement until the owner decides it's time to let go.

chicago is really bad to cars and i don't think it was until the early 00s that most carmakers solved their rust susceptibility problems - galvanized steel, good basecoats, etc. makes a big difference. you don't see too many cars past that era rusting, except proteges and windstars.

Originally Posted by asand1
A 17 year old car in the rust belt refuses to give up and you call it a POS? Is every car that has used up its' first set of brake pads a POS also, or do you maintain it and keep driving? You're not the first guy on here to have a separated end link and you won't be the last.
no man, like i said, these maximae are really good cars.

and i mean that, too. since i bought my volvo, every little noise and warning lamp makes my wallet quake with fear. nothing expensive has failed yet, but the list of possibilities is huge: rear main seal, $800 (with labor); throttle module, $500; air conditioning, $1000+ (with labor); turbo oil lines, $900 (with labor); turbo, $500; the list goes on. i only owned my 97 for two years or so, but i don't think i ever spent more than $60 on a part, and there was nothing i felt like i needed a shop to do.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
wyobbagy
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
28
Jan 3, 2023 12:03 PM
captchaos
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
17
Mar 15, 2016 12:18 PM
bryants95max
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
10
Oct 2, 2015 12:52 PM
markevans999
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
7
Sep 10, 2015 04:29 PM
16_SR
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
4
Sep 9, 2015 07:14 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:32 PM.