Hello ladies and gentlemen. I would like to introduce myself to the Org. I am a Nissan technician with a specialty in electronics, driveability, and HVAC. I joined this forum due to my pending purchase of a 95 Maxima 5 speed. I will make myself available to the Org to answer any technical questions relating to my area of expertise, or to hard to solve problems of any sort. Do not expect me to recommend rims or something of that nature, there are 3000+ pages of forum history for that. However, I am very willing to help a fellow Nissan enthusiast that is willing to help themselves with a difficult problem. Please have any related codes, tests you have performed, and any related information before contacting me.

 

Welcome to the .org!
I saw your other opening post in the other thread related to a HVAC problem, and you are definitely a most welcome and valuable addition to the community.

 

I got one for you. I replaced my tailights and bulbs. The #5 fuse is blown and keeps blowing. My license plate light, corners, clearance and brake lights only come on all at the same time when I am pressing on my brakes.

 

I forgot to disconnect my negative cable on my battery and was popping the inner right side tail lightbulb in and out of place because is was the only bulb not lit up when I had my daytime lights on (light switch turned once) and after that none of the light worked including the front clearance and corners. Should I just replace the wires that connect to that light bulb on the iner right side?

 

That's an easy one. You've probably got an 1156 in where you need an 1157. The 1156 is shorting out the two circuits. Check the bulbs, make sure you have the correct one and also make sure the sockets are clean.

 

Welcome

 

Welcome to the ORG.

I will be adding freon to my 98 SE in a few weeks and might need your assistance.

 

3000 + pages cover a lot more than just wheels. Believe me.

 

OK, I'll be the first to ask. The AC on my 96 blows sort of cool, but I think it should be colder. It's been that way for some time, so I don't think there's a leak in the system. Are the auto store recharge kits a worthwhile option?

 

...So what kind of wheels would you recommend?

 

Is this some sort of sticky now?

 

Outside of the Ghustle thread I this statement hard to believe

Oh chyea... Welcome.

 

Welcome fellow CARdiologist...

 

Welcome to the Org! It'll be great having a Nissan Tech around.


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

 

welcome home sir!

 

Welcome to the org and you will definitely be a good source of questioning from many long time members.

 

Im sure plenty of people have luck with generic recharge kits. I dont personally believe they do the best job. Even with the mediocre gauge provided, it is almost impossible to determine proper charge weight. Over/under charge will effect performance and without a scale you are just guessing. If you are determined to do it yourself, you need a way to evacuate the contents of the system (I am an EPA card holder so I will recommend evacuation via pump to a designated waste container. Other options exist for evacuation that you will have to figure out on your own should this not be an option), a vacuum pump with gauge, a manifold gauge set, and a scale that reads tenths of an ounce. Hook up manifold gauge and read pressures at max AC conditions with the windows down. Looking for 180-230 on high side and 25-35 on low side (steady needles, no fluctuation. If so, expansion valve/compressor should be considered). Evacuate, place under 15"Hg of vacuum for 30 min, add 1-2oz of OEM spec PAG oil, place cylinder (or generic refrigerant can) on scale and charge to proper weight. Attachment to low side port will allow you to start the engine and use compressor to SLOWLY draw any remaining charge into the system should charge stall below weight.

Now, you should perform manual diagnosis prior to any attempted repair. Ambient temp/vent outlet temp charts are provided in the FSM. A generic rule of thumb is that the vent discharge should be 25-30 degrees F lower than ambient, dependent on humidity. Measure vent temp at center vents under max AC conditions. If temp does not reach 25-30 degree drop, move to underhood diag.

Underhood diag. Locate all major components, you dont need tools here. Discharge line from compressor should be so hot it burns, don't touch longer than 0.5 seconds. If you can touch condensor, it should be pretty hot, and even temp. Infrared thermometer is a bonus but not required. High side line should be hot but tolerable to touch for brief period of time, it should not be tepid or lukewarm. At expansion valve, temp should be warm close to high side line but cold against bulkhead. Suction line exiting bulkhead should be cold, almost frostbite cold, but should not ice over. Line should remain cool back to compressor but not necessarily COLD. Cooling fans should be active and move SIGNIFICANT amount of air, can also be confirmed by difference in outlet temp when stationary vs at speeds over 40mph.

Failure of any of these points to pass feel test (especially cold spots on high side line/uneven condensor temps) indicate a mechanical failure within the system at that point. Slight over/undercharge will be undetectable via feel test. If it passes feel test move to charge procedure.

 

Any input would be appreciated!

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-aaa-fail.html

 

Thanks Nismo. You've pretty confirmed what others have said, only in a lot more detail. If my wife starts to complain about the AC, I'll probably take it in somewhere. Until then, that dog can keep on sleeping...

 

rock on mang.



welcome to the community.


If you get bored come check out the bs threads in the basement, its where all the maladjusted people who happen to own this particular car hang out...