As the title says, I snapped a lug nut while it is still attached to the stud on the rear wheel. The lug nut is one of those locking types and the damn thing sheared right off. Any one have an idea how to get it out?? There is not enough of it left for me to get the special socket onto it. Heres some pics

Here is what is left of the Lug Nut.



And here is the remainder inside the wheel see the shiny silver...yeah, thats what is left. It's about 1/8 - 1/4 inch thick plus the tapered end that goes into the hole...not enough left to get a small socket onto.



EDIT: Did some Googling while at work and it looks like I'll be going to the tire shop to see what they can do unless someone has a better idea.

 

Your best route is to get a new stud and lug, theyre dirt cheap. Had a similar situation when i got my new wheels; the idiots at the tire shop crossthreaded one of my lugs on with an impact gun which resulted in a ruined lug and stud.

Just take a rubber mallet (or a piece of wood and a normal sledge) and bang the stud out, one maybe two hits will get it out. Use pb to loosen it. Put the new stud in and use an open lug to pull it through noce and tight. Should take 10 mins tops.

And w/e you do DO NOT MISS!! Or youll be back here with a broken rotor lol.

 

You will need a new stud and lug, but getting that one out will be fun. You will need to drill out the stud before whacking it through the old nut. Start a small pilot hole by using a punch to center the bit and a small drill bit. After the pilot hole, use a bit one fraction of an inch smaller than the stud. You want to drill the threads off of the stud so the nut comes off. Hammer it through the hole in the rotor, remove the other nuts and rim. Then reinstall a new stud and nut.

 

Never saw that happen before. That's going to be a real PITA to get out. I think your only option might be to drill the stud until the remaining part of the lug nut falls off. It looks like a fairly flat surface to center punch, then drill. You want a bit size the same or ever so slightly larger then the stud. Once you pass through the lug, it should fall off. Take the other 4 nuts off so you can pull on the wheel a little as you get into it.

 

Good grief Ryan, what kind of a black cloud are you under?

Like the others have said, you're going to have to drill the stud out and replace it. On something the size of the wheel studs, I would do three drill sizes - a small pilot hole no bigger than 1/8, an intermediate size no bigger than 1/4 and then the final size.

 

I have an almost complete set of 5.5 gen factory lugs sitting around. Think I'm missing 2 or 3 of them due to broken studs. I'll double check when I get home if your interested. Firm price of $0 +shipping. Let me know.

 

HAHA! I wish I knew! I was trying to pull the wheel off because the brake pads on that side are only making contact with the bottom half of the rotor. So I was trying to see what was going on. I tried to be very careful because the special socket I have is not the most rugged and I didn't want to snap that as I have before. Well, now I wish the socket snapped Oh well, I went to tire warehouse today and they said $35 to fix it. I'll just have them do it since most of my tools are packed away right now...plus I don't need any more headaches Gotta replace some brake lines soon too. Ahhh, the joys of a 16 year old car in Maine.

Thanks for the offer. I actually saved all my stock lug nuts when I put the security ones on for just this type of incident.

 

$35 sounds like a good deal.

On your brakes, I would check the pins that the caliper slides on. They may have lost the lubrication and are binding.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...equestid=98700

If you need the rubber boots:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=74428_0_0_

 

good man, if i ever snap mine i know who im hitting up!!!

 

I'm pretty sure the slides and boots are about a year old...doesn't mean they aren't crap though. Those were my suspicions going in. Hoping I can just lube them up and be good. They can't have been like that for long cause I dont feel a ridge there.

 

I didn't snap my lug nut but I did torque off two wheel studs from the exact same situation. After market wheels were over torqued down with an impact gun from the tire shop and cross threaded the nuts. It was kinda a pain to put the new ones back in with just hand tools in my parking lot.

Torque specs on lugs should be about 90 pounds right?

 

This is why i always use neversieze on my studs.

 

90 foot pounds is a little high. The spec is 72 to 87 foot pounds. 80 is about the middle.

 

If you own a Jetta as a second car, .DO.NOT USE a 3/4 drive breaker bar to put the studs in the holes. Way too much torque. :-)

 

Got it done at the tire shop today...$24.

Good idea in the anti seize...I'll be using that when I take these off to check my brakes.

 

I've seen quite a few issues with the spline drive lug nuts. My buddy had to torch his off. He's nuts but didn't hurt the wheel too bad. Another had to use extractors on all 20. After seeing that, paying $24 isn't bad at all. LOL.

 

Extract all 20 you say Needless to say, I am not looking forward to taking the other 15 off!!

 

Maybe soaking them with PB Blaster for a day might help.

 

I thought of this for the remaining ones but wasn't sure if the PB would even be able to get to the threads. Definitely worth a try the next time the wheels need to come off.

 

3/4 drive breaker bar gets them off faster than 1/2 drive ratchet. My car came with aftermarket rims that you cannot put the factory tire iron or 4 way wrench into. Someone got happy with the air gun and 3/8 drive won't touch those nuts

 

I don't know what brand they were but the special spline drive thin wall socket broke. I've always used regular 19 or 21 mm lugs and never had an issue. I also use a torque wrench and anti seize religiously.