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Rear brake won't release

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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:12 PM
  #1  
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Rear brake won't release

It seems driving this car comes with problems. That's evident. Today I drove to my local convenient store to just grab a drink and the car seemed to be running rough. I thought it was the gas maybe, or throttle cable was loose. But as I stopped in the parking lot I saw smoke come to the front of the car. I got out and the rear driver side brake was smoking. I brought it home and ran it past my dad, age has knowledge, he thinks it's the caliper and so do I. But I wanted to jump on here and ask if anyone has had this issue and what they did to fix it. Should I just replace the caliper or try some brake cleaner first and then see what happens?

Thanks in advance.
Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by WendysMaxima
It seems driving this car comes with problems. That's evident. Today I drove to my local convenient store to just grab a drink and the car seemed to be running rough. I thought it was the gas maybe, or throttle cable was loose. But as I stopped in the parking lot I saw smoke come to the front of the car. I got out and the rear driver side brake was smoking. I brought it home and ran it past my dad, age has knowledge, he thinks it's the caliper and so do I. But I wanted to jump on here and ask if anyone has had this issue and what they did to fix it. Should I just replace the caliper or try some brake cleaner first and then see what happens?

Thanks in advance.
These years are known for rear caliper issues. I bought a 95 and had to replace both calipers on the rear because they were stuck.
Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:17 PM
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So you think it's that too then? Welp. Sounds like I'm taking a trip to Autozone.
Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:35 PM
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Yup, the caliper piston is seized. Just returned another one of mine that was only a year old. If you get one from a store, ask them to check and make sure the piston turns back in before you get home and get everything apart only to find that your "new" one is junk too. Remember, the rear caliper pistons need to be turned in order for them to go in...you do not just push them in like the fronts.
Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:38 PM
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1) Make sure it's not just the guide pins before you replace the caliper.
2) Make sure you lube the guide pins when/if you replace the caliper.
Old Aug 27, 2013 | 05:51 PM
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I had the same problem with my rear passenger side caliper. Replaced it along with rubber parts, like mentioned above make sure you grease the guide pins.
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 12:47 PM
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Which replacement rear calipers did you go with? Cuz the OEM ones are no longer available new, and the remans are $500 without the $80 core charge/side. Don't wanna go el-cheapo; just a reasonably priced quality replacement part.

TIA!
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Which replacement rear calipers did you go with? Cuz the OEM ones are no longer available new, and the remans are $500 without the $80 core charge/side. Don't wanna go el-cheapo; just a reasonably priced quality replacement part.

TIA!
Where the he11 are you getting your parts from? Advance has em for >$100.
Thats where I got mine...it's trial and error though getting a remanned one that is not crap...but they have lifetime warranty and they are easy enough to change.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...&storeId=10151
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 03:37 PM
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Advanced Lifetime warranty only applies once. Once you change it out, that warranty is now done with.

If you want real life time warranty, go with AutoZone. I think my rear caliper with Life Time Warranty was about 55, after core.
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 05:42 PM
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i also got mine for about 60 bucks at AutoZone lifetime replacement.
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 2brosgixxer
Where the he11 are you getting your parts from? Advance has em for >$100.
Thats where I got mine...it's trial and error though getting a remanned one that is not crap...but they have lifetime warranty and they are easy enough to change.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...&storeId=10151
That price was quoted to me from the stealership. Call me a sucker, but I typically prefer OEM parts, except in parts where I really don't think it makes a difference. Calipers are pretty important to me, but not when it's overpriced by $300+.

Thanks for the heads up re: the Autozone lifetime warranty. Sounds like a good way to go.
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
That price was quoted to me from the stealership. Call me a sucker, but I typically prefer OEM parts, except in parts where I really don't think it makes a difference. Calipers are pretty important to me, but not when it's overpriced by $300+.

Thanks for the heads up re: the Autozone lifetime warranty. Sounds like a good way to go.

no problem. AutoZone calipers are decent. And if they seize, which they eventually will. you can get them swapped out for free, no questions asked.
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Max139617
And if they seize, which they eventually will.
LOL. Is that the best one with that good a warranty?
Old Oct 22, 2013 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
LOL. Is that the best one with that good a warranty?
Well I dont really think there is a "best" when it comes to calipers. They will eventually seize whether you buy a re-manned or new oem. It's just a matter of time.

But, when they do go out, it's nice to just be able to pop it out and take it back and have it replaced as many times as you need for free. The re-manned AZ calipers have been on my car for about 1.5 years, still going strong.
Old Oct 22, 2013 | 10:21 AM
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Good point. Thanks!
Old Oct 22, 2013 | 11:52 AM
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Hey all, I actually figured it out awhile ago, it wasn't calipers or anything of the sort. The E-brake cable was just stuck. WD-40 and a few hammer taps, good to go.
Old Oct 22, 2013 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Max139617
Advanced Lifetime warranty only applies once. Once you change it out, that warranty is now done with.

If you want real life time warranty, go with AutoZone. I think my rear caliper with Life Time Warranty was about 55, after core.

Interesting, guess it's good to know the Manager at Advance cause I have swapped mine out 3 times due to it being junk
Old Oct 22, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jholley
Don't just lubricate it once and it expect it to never happen again. Flood both rear cables every other day for a week. The most common cause of them freezing or rusting is not using them. When I replaced both rear cables I now always use them for parking. If you have AT then pull the cable after shifting into neutral then with your foot off the brake pedal shift into park. Your parking cables will not only benefit but the parking pawl will last longer.
Good stuff!
Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:40 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jholley
Don't just lubricate it once and it expect it to never happen again. Flood both rear cables every other day for a week. The most common cause of them freezing or rusting is not using them. When I replaced both rear cables I now always use them for parking. If you have AT then pull the cable after shifting into neutral then with your foot off the brake pedal shift into park. Your parking cables will not only benefit but the parking pawl will last longer.
I actually don't use the E-brake anymore, not unless I feel it's needed. I have a 5mt, so I just put it in gear.
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