S1cTech

I screwed the piston all the way back in and put the brand new pads on, greesed and everything is great, stops well. No noise. Ebrake works fine except... My ebrake handle still goes up a lot, If not more now?

Also. I do have it on full adjustment maxed out under the handle...FYI

Is there an adjustment on the caliper perhaps? Fluid is not overflowing when I pushed them back in either, they stop and all seems good. The only thing I can think of is either the caliper is frozen in that area(they are only like 4 years old. I bought them brand new in 2009 so I doubt this)

Also the ebrake cable was completely replaced in 2009 as well because it got all sized up and brackets are fine(reason why I replaced both rear calipers because I thought those were frozen when it was actually a frozen ebrake cable)

Has this happened to anyone? I really want my ebrake to go up a few clicks like it does per FSM and night and be super tight for heavy hills. I have to crank it basically near top until boot pops out and thats not good for big hills. I need more slack back I guess lol. Oh and Rotors are fine, they have plenty of thickness.

Strange this happened...

S1cTech

So no one has any clue huh? Damn

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

can the hook on the caliper be brought forward a bit?

S1cTech

I was wondering that myself. If there is an adjustment on the caliper.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

There is no adjustment anywhere but at the handle.

oldtech

When you screwed the piston back in, did you noticed it was slotted. There should also be a dimple like pin on the inner pad. That pin should align into one of the four slots. I would check that first. Also make sure that the e-brake cable clips are in place. After, reassembling, pump brake pedal while pulling up on the e-brake handle a few times, it should stiffen up.

S1cTech

The pads only had one nub on them but it doesn't even look like the dimples on the piston even touch it, but yeah there were 4 dimples on the cailper per normal and I should check that. Wow. I thought that the piston turns as it presses out so how would that work for the pad? lol. That nub is for the ebrake huh?

and yah the cables are in place. Like I said, I replaced the whole ebrake cable several years ago. I always made sure no one jacked the car on them lol

S1cTech

hmm. The pad doesn't really go outside the notch. It just is right next to it. Unless Duralast did it wrong?

2brosgixxer

For what it's worth, I don't remember seeing any "nubs" on my pads when I did mine.

EDIT: I wasn't paying much attention when I did mine thought...in looking at some google images, it does look like a small nub is present.

bobflood

Rear pads have to have nubs to engage with the slots on the caliper piston. Otherwise, piston won't extend out as pads wear. Front pads do not have nubs as front pistons don't turn in and out.