scanned for codes p0325
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scanned for codes p0325
1997 Nissan Max SE, service engine light on, scanned for codes p0325 and speed sensor came up, car runs fine slight hestitation sometimes. Should these sensors be replaced ? Also, what is the best way to service transmission, drop the pan, replace trans gasket, fill with fluid or do a flush with pan in place. I was told that the trans filter on unit cannot be changed is this true? This is an automatic trans by the way.
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 253
From: south east conn.
when my knock sensor crapped out i noticed nothing other than a little less low rpm power...and a little better gas milage when changed. never any hesitation!
and for the transmission....how many miles??? and how was the maintainance regimens on it in the past?? if you got alot of miles on it and the atf hasnt been changed, some say your better off not touching it....but if the at has been treated good over its life than just drain and fill it..a couple times over a period of time if you want to get most of the old fluid out...ive never(knock on wood) had a speed sensor code but id have to say with the 2 codes u have it would be most likelly the speed sensor causing your hesitation...but im sure, other more eperienced people will chime in on that! good luck!
and for the transmission....how many miles??? and how was the maintainance regimens on it in the past?? if you got alot of miles on it and the atf hasnt been changed, some say your better off not touching it....but if the at has been treated good over its life than just drain and fill it..a couple times over a period of time if you want to get most of the old fluid out...ive never(knock on wood) had a speed sensor code but id have to say with the 2 codes u have it would be most likelly the speed sensor causing your hesitation...but im sure, other more eperienced people will chime in on that! good luck!
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15
From: Beaverton, Oregon
P0325 and VSS (P0500)
For P0325 look over this forum's resources and you will find "ton" of stuff dealing with it, including very detailed "How To's" on replacing it. Let it go until you get the other remedied and it may disappear;this code on its own will not set the MIL light (CEL).
Most will tell you immediately to replace the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) if you have P0500. In most cases it's not necessary. The VSS is a very simple magnetic induction signal generator which generates an AC signal (sine wave-positive and negative hence two wires leading from it) which goes to the back of the speedometer. Get yourself a simple multi-meter and learn how to use it---quite simple really. You'll never use many of the functions ordinarily anyway so don't worry about how confusing it looks. Harbor Frt. Tools will give you a free one with their 'freebie' coupon if you buy anything else, and it works fine.
Pull your VSS which you can access from above using, what I prefer, a 1/4" drive ratchet with 6-8" or so extension with a 10MM socket on it. with the extension, your hand will be above the sensor giving you room to swing the wrench. If the mounting area on top of the tranny case is dirty, wire brush the dirt out of the way so it doesn't fall into the tranny once you pull the sensor out. You'll need to rotate, torque sideways somewhat, and tug on the sensor to pull it out. It has an O-ring on it and fits quite tight in the tranny case. When you go to replace it, pull your tranny dipstick and wipe a little oil from it and onto the o-ring before replaceing the sensor to help from nicking the o-ring. FSM says to jack the car up and come at it from underneath, but there ain't no hair there so it's not like using 'feel' when makin love in the dark. You can do it easily though by feel and using a 10MM box wrench(or open end)---I like a ratcheting box myself, but I go from the top as I said, it's easy.
Once you got it out, "zero" your ohm meter (multi-meter on lowest Resistance scale, say 200 ohms) by putting the two probes togethor in your hand and keeping them still and let the reading go to minimum, probably something like .2, .3, or .4 ohms. The older analog meters had a "zeroing" **** on them so you could center the needle on zero-no worries though. Whatever you end up with for your zero function, subtract that amount from whatever reading you get when checking resistance figures, and that will give you your 'true' resistance figure. You may use this function a lot, depending upon how deep you want to get into diagnosing problems yourself. Nothing complicated about it at all---very simple once you understand the concepts and if you're going to work on your own ride, you need to know. You can check out the VSS circuit from the sensor to the back of speedo with this function for shorts/opens, conductivity basically as well as from speed down to the ECU connector.
With the VSS out, put the two leads on the two prongs of the sensor (in any order) after removing the subharness (12"-15" harness attached to sensor and next connector) and have someone help by holding the sensor and spinning the gear with their fingers rapidly. The meter should be set on the lowest "AC Voltage" scale, like 250 or so with the HFT 'Special'. It should easily show at least .5 volts, and if you run the edge of your hand down the drive gear really spinning it, you can get 1.5 to probably 2 volts. This should demonstrate that the VSS is fine and you don't need to spend the $20-$25 needlessley.
I'm working on getting rid of the same two codes and have gone quite a bit further than this. Your speedo and/or tach may be the issue but start with the simpler first. I pulled my cluster and re-soldered some connections per a much earlier post on the subject, so 'search 'speedometer' if you want to learn more. I'm putting mine back together tomorrow (Fri) and will smoke test. Mine is an '96 SE W/auto (Fed) @ 155K-runs great but only ASCD not working. If you have ?'s, you can PM me. Thanks, and good success.
Most will tell you immediately to replace the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) if you have P0500. In most cases it's not necessary. The VSS is a very simple magnetic induction signal generator which generates an AC signal (sine wave-positive and negative hence two wires leading from it) which goes to the back of the speedometer. Get yourself a simple multi-meter and learn how to use it---quite simple really. You'll never use many of the functions ordinarily anyway so don't worry about how confusing it looks. Harbor Frt. Tools will give you a free one with their 'freebie' coupon if you buy anything else, and it works fine.
Pull your VSS which you can access from above using, what I prefer, a 1/4" drive ratchet with 6-8" or so extension with a 10MM socket on it. with the extension, your hand will be above the sensor giving you room to swing the wrench. If the mounting area on top of the tranny case is dirty, wire brush the dirt out of the way so it doesn't fall into the tranny once you pull the sensor out. You'll need to rotate, torque sideways somewhat, and tug on the sensor to pull it out. It has an O-ring on it and fits quite tight in the tranny case. When you go to replace it, pull your tranny dipstick and wipe a little oil from it and onto the o-ring before replaceing the sensor to help from nicking the o-ring. FSM says to jack the car up and come at it from underneath, but there ain't no hair there so it's not like using 'feel' when makin love in the dark. You can do it easily though by feel and using a 10MM box wrench(or open end)---I like a ratcheting box myself, but I go from the top as I said, it's easy.
Once you got it out, "zero" your ohm meter (multi-meter on lowest Resistance scale, say 200 ohms) by putting the two probes togethor in your hand and keeping them still and let the reading go to minimum, probably something like .2, .3, or .4 ohms. The older analog meters had a "zeroing" **** on them so you could center the needle on zero-no worries though. Whatever you end up with for your zero function, subtract that amount from whatever reading you get when checking resistance figures, and that will give you your 'true' resistance figure. You may use this function a lot, depending upon how deep you want to get into diagnosing problems yourself. Nothing complicated about it at all---very simple once you understand the concepts and if you're going to work on your own ride, you need to know. You can check out the VSS circuit from the sensor to the back of speedo with this function for shorts/opens, conductivity basically as well as from speed down to the ECU connector.
With the VSS out, put the two leads on the two prongs of the sensor (in any order) after removing the subharness (12"-15" harness attached to sensor and next connector) and have someone help by holding the sensor and spinning the gear with their fingers rapidly. The meter should be set on the lowest "AC Voltage" scale, like 250 or so with the HFT 'Special'. It should easily show at least .5 volts, and if you run the edge of your hand down the drive gear really spinning it, you can get 1.5 to probably 2 volts. This should demonstrate that the VSS is fine and you don't need to spend the $20-$25 needlessley.
I'm working on getting rid of the same two codes and have gone quite a bit further than this. Your speedo and/or tach may be the issue but start with the simpler first. I pulled my cluster and re-soldered some connections per a much earlier post on the subject, so 'search 'speedometer' if you want to learn more. I'm putting mine back together tomorrow (Fri) and will smoke test. Mine is an '96 SE W/auto (Fed) @ 155K-runs great but only ASCD not working. If you have ?'s, you can PM me. Thanks, and good success.
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Kyle Lee Cleveland
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Sep 28, 2015 09:01 PM