I have the rusted front radiator support/ center member problem, and was thinking of using steel rod with threaded ends to support the center member via the 3/4 inch holes (see red arrow in picture) that span the front of the car. It appears that these are positioned directly beneath the cross member and I would jack up the engine and put the steel rod to support some of the engine weight. has anyone tried this? Any other thoughts or comments? Its a 1995 with 200k+ miles , engine runs smooth, a lot of the body panels are rusting. Im not looking to spend 1k to fix this..

 

Here is the finished product. The center member is back to where it should be...

 

You should be able to get this fixed proper for like ~600 or so .

 

Got mine done Oem with paint for about 600.
I've seen patchwork done before, but not this.

 

Looks ghetto. It also looks like the bar is bending/flexing. It may only be a temporary fix.

 

You'd be better off taking pieces of flat stock and welding it to the bottom and sides of the lower rad support essentially boxing it in.

 

its only about $185 for all the OEM parts that you need to repair the support the correct way. The actual support is $160 and you have a few bolts and bushings to go with it... I did mine a few years ago and its not that big of deal... to repair it the correct way.

 

Im going to move up to 1 and 1/8 inch rod that is threaded down to 3/4 inch on both ends to fit into the openings the holes on the radiator support. This should eliminate the deflection...

 

The middle is rusted out and you're putting tension on it in a not so good way. Spend a few hours to fix it yourself. It's simple but tedious and time consuming.
https://www.google.com/#q=site:maxim...rt+replacement

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ment-pics.html

If you decide to do this, buy a oem piece of metal because the online/ebay replacements seem to be too thin and fall apart.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nt-photos.html

 

The brackets that the op had the rod through are shipping tie downs. They are not a structural item. I wouldn't be surprised to see them bend inwards as the bar sags.

 

They won't bend inwards.. Here is the result moving up to the beefier 1 and 1/8 inch rod.. Again I want to mention that this car is rusting real badly all over the outside body due to 20 years of upper Midwest salt filled winters, making the car not worth the money or time to fix with OEM parts. Nothing that prevents the car from being driven safely except for this center member for now. This is just a bandaid to get another year or two before I have to let her go, hate to see that happen but its inevitable for late model Nissans in the cold weather climates.. Damn Japanese cars weren't built for that, hope they changed to better rust proofing for my 2004 maxima

 

I want one lol PM me details on where to get the supplies.

 

I hear you on the rust. I don't have much left for rocker panels. But side skirts can hide that. Looks like it will work. It can't really hurt. Mine is starting to get bad, I was thinking of a way I could get a piece of tube steel inside, and then run longer bolts through to the tube steel. The load is more distributed. If it lasts me three years, that's long enough. I saw more salt on the roads this last winter than the last three combined.

 

Sorry OP, I have to say what I'm thinking..
I honestly am starting to get scared of things like this when people cheap out on major parts to get by by trying new things and probably creating a danger for themselves or others on the road if the trial turns into error.
If you want the car to last a few years, get the eBay cheap crap that only lasts two years..
At least that won't have the potential to fall off your car and hurt someone...and please don't act like you think it's fine because I'm sure you are an innovator in this and possibly for good reason. /rant

 

Not that expensive if u find the right body guy got mine done for 450..with oem part

 

err...ummm...good luck with this.

not the best idea but its your car.