I searched many post regarding this CEL and used the Haynes book to trouble shoot this code and have not found the problem. I decided to post my own thread rather than revive old threads regarding this code.

So far i removed the evap canister purge valve mounted on the charcoal canister with 2 10mm bolts behind the rear wheel and tested it. The valve plunger was clean and moved up and down freely even with 12v applied and then removed the stem moves up and down... The only thing I noticed is that it does not fully seat, I see 3 little metal tabs on the bottom of the valve by the plugger that do not let the valve fully seat. I tried breaking them off with a small screw driver but these look to be part of the valve. Can anyone contest this?

I checked the solenoid valve by the charcoal canister, with 12v it clicks I can then blow air through the 2 black ports, with no 12v i can not blow air through the ports so i assume the solenoid is good. All hose look good back there as well as the canister.

The black canister with Hat ( as some describe it ) on the manifold by the Evap canister volume control valve with three ports, i removed that and found no debris in it.. I tried my best to put 11 psi to see if it holds as the Haynes manuel says.. this test was inconclusive I also didn't feel it loose air as I pressurized it through the ports as the Haynes says. So i don't think its bad but don't know for sure.

The evap solenoid with 3 ports near the map boro solenoid, i removed and tested. It tested fine with 12v and according to the Haynes manuel. With that being said I don't know what else to check and I don't want to start replacing parts that check out good. Anyone have any other ideas on what to check? All rubber hoses pinch easily like the manuel says are not cracked.

Any input would help. Thanks in advance.

 

Man, you put a lot of effort into that. Good luck with the fix although let me know if you want the one off my '99 SE had low miles, super clean. If all else fails and you need a nice oem part.

 

yea man.. don't like to spend money needlessly on replacing good parts.
I read through a lot of threads of people replacing parts that didn't clear the code. So Im trying to find the exact problem.

 

 

anyone?

 

Permanently delete that code from the ECU, and forget about the EVAP system completely. It does nothing good for ya.

Emissions are no problem either.

Or go get a whole EVAP canister assembly from junkyard, disconnect battery, install, be done.

Usually, troubleshooting these things gets you nowhere. Usually, its the actual canister that goes bad.

 

I don't know if deleting that would cause an emissions problem in NJ.. I heard these new emissions computers know what the car supposed to have by VIN # and can fail emissions if it doesn't detect what supposes to be there. Don't know how true that is.

Which canister are you speaking of that goes bad?

 

^ I'm not sure about Jersey but we had an old Camry in the family with 300k on it that had a bad charcoal canister, never fixed and never had emissions problems for many years.

Oh and I'm talking about the charcoal canister, that usually goes bad. So replacing the whole thing is usually the best fix.

 

I hear ya.. yea no way to test that canister I don't think.. I mean besides visual inspection. If the code comes back I'll just replace that charcoal canister.

 

Fixed the problem, turned out to be a hair line crack on a small vac hose on the evap solenoid near the map solenoid in the engine bay. I replaced that hose with a 3 dollar Vac hose from Autozone, reset the light and hasn't come back on over 200 miles. Im glad I didn't replace a good canister… Giving myself the

 

Good News! I'm glad to hear the problem has been solved. That is one of the reasons I like to replace all of the small engine compartment vacuum hoses as part of a mid-life refresh. It keeps the gremlins away.

 

Yes sir, definitely a good idea.