JLA117

1302 checking it manually and 1105 checking with obd 2 at autozone. Then I took car to aamco to fix the problem and they first had to do a free inspection for one hour. Yes, they inspected my car. I need one motor mount, oil leak, tranny leak, ect... They showed me. But they needed to do further inspection on that map baro switch solenoid valve. So it's 95$ for that service. The other aamco did similar thing to me for the knock sensor and Maf which I already did myself. I am a diy depending on how complex it is but I can't seem to find out what's up with this stupid *** code. They told me all hoses and stuff were connected properly. I don't wanna shell out money unless it's hopeless. I did test the that switch like a video on YouTube did with the voltage device and then to check the absolute pressure sensor. Now the ap sensor I didn't test it with that vacuum pump thing he used on the car because I don't have one but I did my own test by disconnecting it, diagnose the check engine light manually and turned car on. New code did come on and car died when I shifted to reverse. So that sensor seems to be ok and working. Anyone know how to do this stupid code? My car idles rough now because of it. My car idled like a new car until that freaking code came on.

theWalkinator

If you checked the hoses and sensor and nothing is wrong with them, then the solenoid is bad or got clogged so if you don't have vacuum pump to test it, I suggest you take it out and clean it, there 2 (or 4) metal clips holding on the one end, you can use a flat head screw driver to pry the clips up and then you can open the solenoid, be careful, there is a small piston, a spring and a O-ring inside so don't let it shoot out, give it a good spray with carb cleaner, use you mouth to blow it from the side that has on the side that has one hose to see if there is any blockage. Put everything back, make sure you bend metal clips back to hold the cover down good, re-install it, clear the code and see if it works after cleaning. I did this with my EGR solenoid which is identical to MAP/BRAO solenoid.

JLA117

Which part of it is the solenoid? It like has a hose connector at the bottom, the switch in the middle and two hose connectors on top and its held by a 10 mm bolt. Thanks

theWalkinator

Something like this:

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The actual solenoid is the big part in the center. Because all the solenoid valve is doing is switching air passages, you don't have to use a vacuum pump to test it, you can blow through it.

See the bottom of page 326 in the EC section of the FSM, link below.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1998/EC.pdf

There are 3 of the same exact solenoid valve right near each other. They are used for different things, but the solenoid valve is the same. You could swap swap them if you felt like it.

JLA117

I did exactly as you said. The one where two hoses connect, the top connector part has less air coming out of it than the bottom hose connector when I blow air inside. I even put the throttle body cleaner and still less air comes out. That one looks like it connects to intake.