Motor finally blew at 397k miles
Did the water pump ever leak during it's 397k life? If not what antifreeze did you use for coolant mixing? Nissan Green, Toyota red, or a cheap brand with extra additives that can possibly corrode the rings?
Water pump leaking is a common issue with these A32s becoming high mileaged. Some members got corroded pump fins due to mixing with tap water. I'm at 162k on my 98 using nothing but Nissan Green mixed with distilled water and the pump hasn't leaked yet.
Water pump leaking is a common issue with these A32s becoming high mileaged. Some members got corroded pump fins due to mixing with tap water. I'm at 162k on my 98 using nothing but Nissan Green mixed with distilled water and the pump hasn't leaked yet.
Those are some really good questions from JHolley. Also as a follow up to my other question, and I guess I should have asked before,
did you change your timing chain tensioners at all? And if so, when? 200K miles, 150K miles?
did you change your timing chain tensioners at all? And if so, when? 200K miles, 150K miles?
Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 167
From: Virginia
Did the water pump ever leak during it's 397k life? If not what antifreeze did you use for coolant mixing? Nissan Green, Toyota red, or a cheap brand with extra additives that can possibly corrode the rings?
Water pump leaking is a common issue with these A32s becoming high mileaged. Some members got corroded pump fins due to mixing with tap water. I'm at 162k on my 98 using nothing but Nissan Green mixed with distilled water and the pump hasn't leaked yet.
Water pump leaking is a common issue with these A32s becoming high mileaged. Some members got corroded pump fins due to mixing with tap water. I'm at 162k on my 98 using nothing but Nissan Green mixed with distilled water and the pump hasn't leaked yet.
Did the water pump ever leak during it's 397k life? If not what antifreeze did you use for coolant mixing? Nissan Green, Toyota red, or a cheap brand with extra additives that can possibly corrode the rings?
Water pump leaking is a common issue with these A32s becoming high mileaged. Some members got corroded pump fins due to mixing with tap water. I'm at 162k on my 98 using nothing but Nissan Green mixed with distilled water and the pump hasn't leaked yet.
Water pump leaking is a common issue with these A32s becoming high mileaged. Some members got corroded pump fins due to mixing with tap water. I'm at 162k on my 98 using nothing but Nissan Green mixed with distilled water and the pump hasn't leaked yet.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
No, I never changed the guides because I knew it would cost a lot so I rather had let this engine blow and put something else in the car for the amount I would spend on trying to maintain this one. EGR was acting a fool too along with some sensors.
I ran this car back and for the LI 4 times in 2014 loaded down with my kids and tools to work on my mom's house up there. This car was a highway trooper and still ran good up to the point when the chain started failing. I could have changed those tensioners but as much as I've maintained this car, I hate working in tight spaces and the engine bay is full of them. I hate it.
Last edited by deezo; Feb 7, 2015 at 05:58 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
Im trying to give some advice....your trying to argue with me and have smart remarks....I've actually built 3.5 and been inside to see the quality of the parts and it doesn't compare to other nissan motors VG, KA, vq30. 3.5 is by far one of the worse motors I've seen by Nissan and if you've been inside of many different nisaan motors you wouldn't of made any of those comments. Your obviously a fan boy of the 3.5 so give your .02 and I'll give mine which would be from actual experience. And you ask if I know the purpose of those parts man please.....
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,871
From: IT DOESN'T MATTER WHO CARES!!
well, to be fair here all 3.0's have the timing chain issue, ( at least in my experience ) at a certain mileage due to plastic guides. my max has had a "rattle" since i bought her almost 10 years ago with 129,000 on her and now at 266,000 it rattles especially louder in the colder, but also warmer weather. after she warms up she usually quiets down and runs right.
Wow 400k miles on the original water pump and tensionsers that's a fantastic testament to the VQ30s durability.
Of course hearing about those family road trips and such, it's sad to see her go. A moment of silence please.
Of course hearing about those family road trips and such, it's sad to see her go. A moment of silence please.
Last edited by dwapenyi; Feb 7, 2015 at 10:27 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
weird thing is, i have a 266,000 mile vq30 and i almost bought a 02 vq35 that had 160,000 and man if that motor didn't smoke and knock like crazy. mine leaks oil and the tensioners are f'ed up, but even at that once she warms up she quiets down. the 02 never became quiet and continued spewing smoke the more i drove it. i'll stick with my 95, thanks
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 224
From: Toronto, Ontario
no oil burning with my 3.5, though I have some timing chain rattling....
As for VQ30's having timing chain issues, I don't see it as common as VQ35's
I'd probably just drop another VQ30, possibly DE-K for a peace of mind with installation and reliability since you've made it that far & probably have good knowledge of it
but if you really want that power, the VQ35 is sure smooth as hell & a beast
As for VQ30's having timing chain issues, I don't see it as common as VQ35's
I'd probably just drop another VQ30, possibly DE-K for a peace of mind with installation and reliability since you've made it that far & probably have good knowledge of it
but if you really want that power, the VQ35 is sure smooth as hell & a beast
wAt?This. To all of those post.
1st. The excessive oil consumption has been tracked back down to the Cats and precats breaking up and being sucked back into the combustion chamber and damaging the rings. A compression check and leak down test will determine if you have a ring problem.
2nd. Most of the 370s issues are being caused by improper break in. But the same cheap cat issue that has plagued nissans since the 5th gen persists. There are plenty of VQ35 on this site that do not burn excessive oil. I know quite a few Z/G owners, no oil consumption issues.
3rd. You do realize how many VQ35 are on the road right now right? ALL OF THEM burning oil? Not one slipped through the oil burning net? Because i dunno i seem to have a VQ35 that doesn't burn oil, i know at least 10 people with non oil burning 3.5s....This is the same argument people say about mitsu 4g63 and crank walk, 2% of all motors are effected but people blow it WAY out of proportion.
Now unless you meant all engines period burn a little bit of oil because thats just normal operation then i retract my statement, 1/2qt with in oil change intervals is acceptable and perfectly normal in any car.
No.
I have one in my 4th gen and it is a little more complicated then the simple 1st gen VQ35. He would have to work out how he is going to get his cams to work, its much different from the original 3.5 swap, and the throttle body in itself is a nightmare of customization.
The reason i said 1st gen VQ35 is because, his car is a daily driver. He can get a more reliable motor with less miles for not a lot more money and keep everything he is used too.
Its not much harder but that TB issue can drive you up the wall, in a 4th gen its all about the TB. 5.5 gen is essentially plug and play. 4th gen is a little differnt and to top it off the Pathfinder TB will not fit on the newer motor, you have to use a converted TB and here are where the problem starts it rotates in the wrong direction for the TPS sensor. so you have to make it rotate the other direction, then there are piece you have to cut off the TB to even allow it to rotate in the other direction. The getting the TPS sensor to stay in place.....
Its not much harder but that TB issue can drive you up the wall, in a 4th gen its all about the TB. 5.5 gen is essentially plug and play. 4th gen is a little differnt and to top it off the Pathfinder TB will not fit on the newer motor, you have to use a converted TB and here are where the problem starts it rotates in the wrong direction for the TPS sensor. so you have to make it rotate the other direction, then there are piece you have to cut off the TB to even allow it to rotate in the other direction. The getting the TPS sensor to stay in place.....
I extended my harness even when i had the path tb, less headaches lol
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
I'm just going to drop another 3.0 into the Max. It's just my DD and I really don't need to try to make this faster than God. I have the G8 for the beast mode mods when I get ready to do some. I'm going to have the shop I used to rebuild my transmission since I was happy with their work and I won't make a mess out of my property in the process. Thanks for all of the responses folks.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 65
From: La Cañada Flintridge, CA
These Maximas are the best. I've got an '00, purchased new and at 345k miles. Finally need to get a catalytic converter, not bad since it's lasted this long. The cost is shocking though! Any suggestions? It looks like I need the front and mid section catalytic converters.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
These Maximas are the best. I've got an '00, purchased new and at 345k miles. Finally need to get a catalytic converter, not bad since it's lasted this long. The cost is shocking though! Any suggestions? It looks like I need the front and mid section catalytic converters.
These Maximas are the best. I've got an '00, purchased new and at 345k miles. Finally need to get a catalytic converter, not bad since it's lasted this long. The cost is shocking though! Any suggestions? It looks like I need the front and mid section catalytic converters.
lol ive seen a couple do that.
I just tell people to look on ebay a resonated test pipe is only $30 and wont tear up your muffler with shards of left over cat coming through. Although i bought a "resonated test pipe" off ebay once and it turned out to just be a normal test pipe with like an egg thing on it....
I just tell people to look on ebay a resonated test pipe is only $30 and wont tear up your muffler with shards of left over cat coming through. Although i bought a "resonated test pipe" off ebay once and it turned out to just be a normal test pipe with like an egg thing on it....
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
UPDATE:
Took my car to an engine shop here in the Raleigh area and they found me a JD VQ30DE with only 15k miles on it. I got tired of looking at junk yards and thinking, "They want me to pay 1200 for that piece of crap?" and this would be an engine with over 100k miles on it.
I'm not feeling a car payment right now so I'd rather just put the Max back on the road with a low mileage engine. The body is in damn good shape and I have a new suspension with a good amount of aftermarket parts so it makes sense for me to keep the car on the road.
Took my car to an engine shop here in the Raleigh area and they found me a JD VQ30DE with only 15k miles on it. I got tired of looking at junk yards and thinking, "They want me to pay 1200 for that piece of crap?" and this would be an engine with over 100k miles on it.
I'm not feeling a car payment right now so I'd rather just put the Max back on the road with a low mileage engine. The body is in damn good shape and I have a new suspension with a good amount of aftermarket parts so it makes sense for me to keep the car on the road.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
I found a VQ30 in a wrecked Maxima with ~73,000 miles in a junk yard for $350. The yard charged $150 to pull the engine and load it into the back of my pickup. So for $500 I drove away with a good engine. I paid another $1,500 for a shop to install the engine and replace items like main seals and clutch.
In my case bad injectors were moved from the old engine to the replacement. So the replacement engine inherited cooked/clogged cats and leaking injectors that caused some sever flooding problems. It took a lot of time and I wasted a lot of money trying to find the problem.
Since you are going to the trouble and expense of replacing the engine, and you plan to use your existing injectors, I would get the injectors serviced because we are seeing a number of injector o-ring and pintle cap failures due to our Maxima's age.
If you are using the injectors and rails from the replacement engine, I would also consider getting the injectors serviced because you don't know how long the injectors have been sitting in the dry.
In my case bad injectors were moved from the old engine to the replacement. So the replacement engine inherited cooked/clogged cats and leaking injectors that caused some sever flooding problems. It took a lot of time and I wasted a lot of money trying to find the problem.
Since you are going to the trouble and expense of replacing the engine, and you plan to use your existing injectors, I would get the injectors serviced because we are seeing a number of injector o-ring and pintle cap failures due to our Maxima's age.
If you are using the injectors and rails from the replacement engine, I would also consider getting the injectors serviced because you don't know how long the injectors have been sitting in the dry.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
With all due respect, I have an engine with 15k coming from Japan. Why would I need your VQ with 135k on it? I would have thought about it if you had posted this a couple months ago though.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
I found a VQ30 in a wrecked Maxima with ~73,000 miles in a junk yard for $350. The yard charged $150 to pull the engine and load it into the back of my pickup. So for $500 I drove away with a good engine. I paid another $1,500 for a shop to install the engine and replace items like main seals and clutch.
In my case bad injectors were moved from the old engine to the replacement. So the replacement engine inherited cooked/clogged cats and leaking injectors that caused some sever flooding problems. It took a lot of time and I wasted a lot of money trying to find the problem.
Since you are going to the trouble and expense of replacing the engine, and you plan to use your existing injectors, I would get the injectors serviced because we are seeing a number of injector o-ring and pintle cap failures due to our Maxima's age.
If you are using the injectors and rails from the replacement engine, I would also consider getting the injectors serviced because you don't know how long the injectors have been sitting in the dry.
In my case bad injectors were moved from the old engine to the replacement. So the replacement engine inherited cooked/clogged cats and leaking injectors that caused some sever flooding problems. It took a lot of time and I wasted a lot of money trying to find the problem.
Since you are going to the trouble and expense of replacing the engine, and you plan to use your existing injectors, I would get the injectors serviced because we are seeing a number of injector o-ring and pintle cap failures due to our Maxima's age.
If you are using the injectors and rails from the replacement engine, I would also consider getting the injectors serviced because you don't know how long the injectors have been sitting in the dry.
right now i need a suspension, motor, cat, and several little things fixed on maxy and don't know where to start. i just got her inspected last month so i'm fixing 1 little thing at a time. truth be told, i'd rather get another low mileage 4th gen and start fresh than fix this one. so much time and $$$$ spent on this frickin car, drives me nuts thinking about it. 
Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,543
even though u got 265k miles max ride, u got a clean car! thats a tough one to move on to, sooo choose wisely..just let the car run till wheels fall off. besides theres people who spend $35k on new cars, and its a car.. Yours may cost $2k-5k to maintain it, but thats just part of what you call maintaining the ride..
Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,543
it would be silly for u to get rid of it, considering its condition it is in. sure it has problems but that can be fixed. #1 thing that matters is that it runs, when you get a chance to fix the problems, then thats a good thing.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
I can't even lie though, this 4th gen is the best car I've ever owned and I can't even say I would be able to find another car that can be equal to it in terms of reliablity. I just can't part with this one. I think I'll feel the same way about the G8 if I end up keeping it for 15 years like I did with the Max. I love the Max and still like driving it. I'm probably going to get new wheels for it since it won't like I'm wasting money with the new engine being installed. I'll get another 15 years or more out of this one.
you're doing the right thing.. 17 plus years with my max throwing in a newly built 3.5 and hopefully it will run another 17 haha 
I agree. I still have a ton of aftermarket parts on this car (H&R springs, Tokico struts, Budget Y, 2.5 B pipe, etc.) and the body is in great shape. No need to junk this car at all plus I don't want anymore car payments for a while. I'd rather save my money to get a nice 2 seater down the road since my kids are almost out of school. Hell, my son graduates next year and my daughter still have about 5 years to go. Something badass will be out by then and I'll have the money to go for it. Maybe I'll by a motorhome and run that around the country. I have plans!
I can't even lie though, this 4th gen is the best car I've ever owned and I can't even say I would be able to find another car that can be equal to it in terms of reliablity. I just can't part with this one. I think I'll feel the same way about the G8 if I end up keeping it for 15 years like I did with the Max. I love the Max and still like driving it. I'm probably going to get new wheels for it since it won't like I'm wasting money with the new engine being installed. I'll get another 15 years or more out of this one.
I can't even lie though, this 4th gen is the best car I've ever owned and I can't even say I would be able to find another car that can be equal to it in terms of reliablity. I just can't part with this one. I think I'll feel the same way about the G8 if I end up keeping it for 15 years like I did with the Max. I love the Max and still like driving it. I'm probably going to get new wheels for it since it won't like I'm wasting money with the new engine being installed. I'll get another 15 years or more out of this one.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,285
From: FV, NC
Just got the car back with a 13,000 mile engine installed. It's clean as a whistle inside too. Once I get 3k on this oil, I'm switching over to the new Pennzoil Platinum. Mobil 1 did a good job but I think the Pennzoil is better since it stopped my lifter tap on my G8.
Anyway, I put a lot of new parts on this car while the engine was out so this car will be good for another 15 to 20 years. I will post a vid of the idle. It's smooth as hell.
Anyway, I put a lot of new parts on this car while the engine was out so this car will be good for another 15 to 20 years. I will post a vid of the idle. It's smooth as hell.
Last edited by deezo; May 9, 2015 at 08:37 PM.
Just got the car back with a 13,000 mile engine installed. It's clean as a whistle inside too. Once I get 3k on this oil, I'm switching over to the new Pennzoil Platinum. Mobil 1 did a good job but I think the Pennzoil is better since it stopped my lift tap on my G8.
Anyway, I put a lot of new parts on this car while the engine was out so this car will be good for another 15 to 20 years. I will post a vid of the idle. It's smooth as hell.
Anyway, I put a lot of new parts on this car while the engine was out so this car will be good for another 15 to 20 years. I will post a vid of the idle. It's smooth as hell.