I discovered a torn boot on my passenger side outer joint yesterday.

 

Has the axle started clicking yet? If not, you could just seal it up and fill it with grease. Depending on how soon after the initial break you had found the tear, you could be buying a couple of months to even years more axle life before failure.

Also, that Pennzoil Synchromesh doesn't seem to specify whether its GL-4 or not.

 

No clicking yet, I caught it early. I do plan on just replacing the boot. The axle is less than 2 years old.

Gl4 only applies to gear oil and is a spec regarding yellow metal compatibility. As this is not really gear oil, it does not apply. PSM is however yellow metal safe.

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I did that 2 month ago, replaced drive side CV boot, the boot kit I got from Advance Auto comes with a snap ring and a pack of grease, to separate CV joint requires some convincing, I just hold the shaft down with me left hand, and slammed the joint with a 3 pound hammer, give it few good slams and you should be able to knock it out, cleaned the old grease in the bowl, I used a can of brake cleaner, put everything back, works fine, I do have to remove the shaft from the transmission though.

 

Always another option ...

 

I saw some split boot that glues together, but not this bolt-on type, where can you get it?

 

I learn something new every day..

 

That split boot is junk.
Replacing the boot is relatively easy. Pulling the axle will make things much easier and you will not lose all your trans fluid.

 

Split boots are junk. They will leak in pretty short order.

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I have had both axles out before, this is not my first rodeo. I know for a fact I will lose most of my fluid. I beleive automatics won't lose much fluid though.

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Can't you just drain your fluid into a clean container, do your fix, strain your fluid and refill your trans?

There might be a bit of volume lost but I can't imagine it'd be much.

 

I will if I have too, I even have an extra quart of SM.

 

I re-used fairly new ATF after cleaning it with a paint strainer a few years ago and its still pink. The AT has been shifting fine. Happened after modifying the VB, inserting new shift soleniods, and replacing 10 quarts of ATF. I bent the AT pan by carelessy over torquing a few of the 21 bolts. After installing a new pan I added that cleanly strained ATF. DIdn't want to spend a bundle on Amsoil synthetic ATF again.

 

^^^ I know a number of local shops that'll offer to retain your recovered fluid (based on the recency of it's change out of course), including my local Ford dealership, and encourage it's reuse.

As long as you're not introducing grit or other contaminants, I honestly think you're good to go.

 

This is my fear. luckily my car is pretty clean underneath, I would just have to clean out my drain pan.

 

Get some old socks to use as a filter. The oil will probably go very slowly through it, but you could be doing your axle job while the fluid is slowly straining through.

 

Do be sure to update this if you can get the joint off as shown in the video.

I have a Raxle here that needs a outer boot.

 

Will do. I'm going to try this just to prove a point and hopefully share another shortcut like the KS install.

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When I did mine, I pulled axle out, no ATF came out, not even a single drop.

 

Manual tranny is different from automatic. You can lose a lot of gear oil when popping out the axle.

 

+1

I'm trying to remember the amount. I definitely had to top it off again with the extra quart that I purchased to keep on hand for emergency repairs.

 

I placed my order for this expecting junk.


And got this


Was surprised and very happy to see an Empi boot, they don't get much better than that.

I pulled the joint out of the hub and attempted to remove the joint in-car, but I just could not get a good enough swing. After draining the MTF into a clean pan I pulled the shaft and replaced the boot.

The old boot has a small puncture wound that I think is from my strut work awhile back.

New boot installed.

 

Nice

 

 

There is no need to remove the brake caliper, caliper mounting bracket and rotor in order to remove the axle.

 

I didn't want to scar up the powder coating, and these brakes are bigger than stock, leaving less room.

 

This is how I torqued the axle nut with my 150 ft/lb torque wrench.

 

I have a 150 ft-lb torque wrench also but haven't had any luck finding an appropriate torque multiplier bar anywhere/online. Any recommendations? Also, could I just torque the nut to 150 ft-lb with my wrench, then add 1/4-1/2 turn or so with a breaker bar/pipe to get to near the 174 ft-lb minimum?

 

So the method shown in the vid worked just fine?

 

Thank you for posting the information. I think it will help members save some $$$.

 

Did any grease get on your rotor? I noticed you have no shield. I am also thinking about doing that brake upgrade.

 

If you're referring to the first post and Deming the joint in car, no I could not get a good enough swing with the hammer.

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No, joint is located far enough back from the wheel and rotor that it could not get them greasy.

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