Salvage Title for my Maxima GXE 1998
#1
Salvage Title for my Maxima GXE 1998
We had recently a car accident and were not at fault. The insurance company declared our Maxima 1998 for total loss, so it will get a salvage title.
The car has only 97.000 miles on it and is in good condition.
There are cosmetic issues on the back of the vehicle caused by collision.
I would like to know you guys opinion.
Would you agree to the offer from insurance (Total Loss and Salvage Title)
or disagree to being able to have a clean title for the Maxima 1998?
Thanks
The car has only 97.000 miles on it and is in good condition.
There are cosmetic issues on the back of the vehicle caused by collision.
I would like to know you guys opinion.
Would you agree to the offer from insurance (Total Loss and Salvage Title)
or disagree to being able to have a clean title for the Maxima 1998?
Thanks
#2
I would tell them I want a check for damages and that they are not going to mess with my title. I don't understand the whole salvage title thing if you already have a clear title in your name.
True Story -
My son's 95 Maxima was rear-ended by a texting Escalade driver. If I recall correctly Progressive was the other party's insurance company.
To give an idea I had purchased the car 18 months earlier for $1,500. The insurance company estimated the damages at $2800 thus a total loss. Total loss value, according to the insurance company was $2,900. I told them I wanted to keep the car.
The insurance company adjuster said I had a buy-back option of $300 that I could take as a discount off the $2,900 total loss amount. So the insurance company issued me a check for $2,600. I took the check and drove off in the car happy.
Since the title was already in my name there was no salvage title reassignment needed. I kept the title and the car. No carfax blemish was issued either.
Since I really didn't want to fix the car, I sold the car to a guy who said his brother-in-law owned a body shop for $700. They could fix the car and drive it or resell it -- I didn't care. Though the guy is still driving around the wrecked car roughly 3 years later.
True Story -
My son's 95 Maxima was rear-ended by a texting Escalade driver. If I recall correctly Progressive was the other party's insurance company.
To give an idea I had purchased the car 18 months earlier for $1,500. The insurance company estimated the damages at $2800 thus a total loss. Total loss value, according to the insurance company was $2,900. I told them I wanted to keep the car.
The insurance company adjuster said I had a buy-back option of $300 that I could take as a discount off the $2,900 total loss amount. So the insurance company issued me a check for $2,600. I took the check and drove off in the car happy.
Since the title was already in my name there was no salvage title reassignment needed. I kept the title and the car. No carfax blemish was issued either.
Since I really didn't want to fix the car, I sold the car to a guy who said his brother-in-law owned a body shop for $700. They could fix the car and drive it or resell it -- I didn't care. Though the guy is still driving around the wrecked car roughly 3 years later.
#3
This is our story.
After the accident we got the repair estimate from DYNAMIC Collision Center in amount of $3873.45. We sent it to insurance company. They wanted to inspect the vehicle. The inspector was here on 3/5/15 and told us that is is going to be a "Total Loss" because it is an old car.
We got on 3/6/15 the paperwork to re-title the vehicle as follow:
"If you retain the vehicle the net settlement is as follows:"
Actual Cash Value = $4,072.00
Salvage Value = $367.00
ACV Less Salvage = $3,705.00
Taxes = $296.40
License/Transfer = $20.00
Net Total = $4,021.40
Links below are pictures from damages.
http://postimg.org/image/z3scl3bxp/
http://postimg.org/image/rv27a18kf/
http://postimg.org/image/63kkvmlvr/
After the accident we got the repair estimate from DYNAMIC Collision Center in amount of $3873.45. We sent it to insurance company. They wanted to inspect the vehicle. The inspector was here on 3/5/15 and told us that is is going to be a "Total Loss" because it is an old car.
We got on 3/6/15 the paperwork to re-title the vehicle as follow:
"If you retain the vehicle the net settlement is as follows:"
Actual Cash Value = $4,072.00
Salvage Value = $367.00
ACV Less Salvage = $3,705.00
Taxes = $296.40
License/Transfer = $20.00
Net Total = $4,021.40
Links below are pictures from damages.
http://postimg.org/image/z3scl3bxp/
http://postimg.org/image/rv27a18kf/
http://postimg.org/image/63kkvmlvr/
#4
That doesn't look like $3900 worth of damage. Anyway, the whole salvage title thing is state specific. Here in CA, it would be labeled as salvaged title, no question about it, no negotiating it, period. Anyway, their offer is pretty solid. Maybe negotiate a bit higher since you have the really low mileage thing going for you.
CS_AR,
Your state must be different, because as stated above, you would have been issued a new salvaged title if you lived in CA.
CS_AR,
Your state must be different, because as stated above, you would have been issued a new salvaged title if you lived in CA.
#6
Plus, if you keep the vehicle, the State of California will make you take it to state approved facility to make sure it's safe the for road. They check EVERYTHING. A freakin' small crack in a lense? Replace it they say. I went through this with my gf's 89 Ford Probe when it was in a minor 10 mile accident and it was considered totaled and then titled as salvaged. I wound up having to replace a tailight because of a minor hairline crack in it, replace the rear drums and pads, and a few other tidbits. Total pain in the ***.
#7
I would tell them I want a check for damages and that they are not going to mess with my title. I don't understand the whole salvage title thing if you already have a clear title in your name.
#8
What happens is the insurance company decides that the cost of repairs is excessive (generally 2/3rds market value) or exceeds the value of the car. The car is then declared as a total loss. At this point, the insurance company decides what the fair market value of the car is after having an adjuster briefly look at the cars condition - if they are trying to lowball you, then you can fight them here on the number; in extreme cases you end up having to get a certified 3rd party take an estimate which will end up costing you money.
Once the market value is established and agreed upon, the insurance company will take your plates and title and pay you - the car is now the property of the insurance company, and will be sold to a junkyard by them. However, if you decide that you want the car still for whatever reason, you have the option to buy the car back from the insurance company for whatever the scrap value is, which can change based on the damage but is generally about ~300$ for our cars. At this point the car becomes yours again, and you receive what is known as a salvage title. You still keep the market value cash regardless what you do, but if you want the car still, that 300$ is deducted from the payout.
If you have any aftermarket parts, feel like you can pull lots of good parts off to sell, or feel like you can repair the car fully - then buy the car back. If the car is a complete sht heap, then dont bother. Keep in mind a good engine can go for about $400, so if you can pull that youre already ahead of the game as far as money goes.
Keep in mind (at least in NY and im assuming commiefornia as well) that you CANNOT drive a car with a salvage title alone. To be able to drive the car again, you must have all the damaged parts replaced with receipts listing the VIN from the donor car to prove no stolen parts were used to repair the car. Once the car is repaired, it must be inspected by state DMV officials, where they determine everything is repaired, NOTHING on the car is stolen, and that it is road worthy. If the car passes this inspection, the salvage title is then turned into what is known as a "Rebuilt salavage title", and you then continue to register/inspect the car as you would any new/preowned car. The rebuilt title is exactly the same as a clean title, except for the fact that any future potential buyer will see that the car was totalled at some point (because thats the only way rebuilt titles are generated to begin with) and the resale value will be severely lowered. Overall, going for a rebuilt title is a good plan if you can do the repairs yourself with proper documentation and parts and plan to keep the car for yourself. However if you plan to resell the car, be aware that a rebuilt title is basically the biggest red flag there is when buying a car, thus selling it for a respectable price will be impossible.
Again - the process i just listed is how they do things in NY. My 99' was totalled about a month ago in a front end accident. I got 3000$ from the insurance claim and paid 300$ to rebuy the car, leaving me with 2700$ and my car with tons of parts i wanted. Still have not decided whether to part it out or fix it since im not sure if the DMV inspectors will tolerate my warpspeed Y pipe and 2 deleted precats and i dont want to buy an OEM y pipe just to pass an inspection.
Hope this helps, sorry to hear you have to deal with this headache as well.
Edit: hate to add to this attrocious wall of text - but that damage doesnt look ANYWHERE near 3 grand+. If youre set on keeping a clean title id suggest getting another estimate from another shop. However the money offered by your insurance company is pretty good, so it might not be worth the time/effort.
Last edited by Slamrod; 03-08-2015 at 08:11 PM.
#9
#10
Yep - It looks like CA is one of the states with a more rigorous consumer protection process.
Here's a link to the different state dmv laws.
http://www.dmv.org/salvaged-vehicles.php
Here's a link to the different state dmv laws.
http://www.dmv.org/salvaged-vehicles.php
Last edited by CS_AR; 03-08-2015 at 09:06 PM.
#12
We had recently a car accident and were not at fault. The insurance company declared our Maxima 1998 for total loss, so it will get a salvage title.
The car has only 97.000 miles on it and is in good condition.
There are cosmetic issues on the back of the vehicle caused by collision.
I would like to know you guys opinion.
Would you agree to the offer from insurance (Total Loss and Salvage Title)
or disagree to being able to have a clean title for the Maxima 1998?
Thanks
The car has only 97.000 miles on it and is in good condition.
There are cosmetic issues on the back of the vehicle caused by collision.
I would like to know you guys opinion.
Would you agree to the offer from insurance (Total Loss and Salvage Title)
or disagree to being able to have a clean title for the Maxima 1998?
Thanks
On the other hand, the car is 17 years old. Yes, it looks great. Your main concern, I assume, is that you hope to sell it for a decent price sometime in the future. The salvage title won't help. But the fact is your car is 17 years old. For comparison, this guy picked up a perfectly clean I30 for $5K.
https://maxima.org/forums/members-ri...ft-planet.html
Given that the I30 is a fully loaded Maxima GLE, your GXE (the cloth seats and no Bose give it away), I would try to think of that $4000 payoff as if you've just sold it....for 80% of what that immaculate I30 went for. Then salvage the title, repair it, and drive it till the wheels fall off. Hand it down to family members with the full knowledge that you're not giving them a potential train wreck or Katrina flood recovery if you really want something new.
#13
This is my concern
I don't want to spend tons of money to just get the CA inspection for a salvage titled car that is running good and is in good condition. But you know the law and how strict they are.
That's why I want to get a check for damages and not to go through the salvage thing.
There should be a solution to negotiate with insurance.
What would you gays say to insurance to get a check instead of salvaged title?
Plus, if you keep the vehicle, the State of California will make you take it to state approved facility to make sure it's safe the for road. They check EVERYTHING. A freakin' small crack in a lense? Replace it they say. I went through this with my gf's 89 Ford Probe when it was in a minor 10 mile accident and it was considered totaled and then titled as salvaged. I wound up having to replace a tailight because of a minor hairline crack in it, replace the rear drums and pads, and a few other tidbits. Total pain in the ***.
That's why I want to get a check for damages and not to go through the salvage thing.
There should be a solution to negotiate with insurance.
What would you gays say to insurance to get a check instead of salvaged title?
#14
This is my concern
I don't want to spend tons of money to just get the CA inspection for a salvage titled car that is running good and is in good condition. But you know the law and how strict they are.
That's why I want to get a check for damages and not to go through the salvage thing.
There should be a solution to negotiate with insurance.
What would you gays say to insurance to get a check instead of salvaged title?
I don't want to spend tons of money to just get the CA inspection for a salvage titled car that is running good and is in good condition. But you know the law and how strict they are.
That's why I want to get a check for damages and not to go through the salvage thing.
There should be a solution to negotiate with insurance.
What would you gays say to insurance to get a check instead of salvaged title?
You cant just get a check for a totalled car and pretend it never happened. As much as you want this, its not going to become reality. If your car is totaled, then it gets a salvage title, period. This is law because otherwise people would be selling cars that are not road worthy due to an accident to gullible who dont know better, and people would be getting killed as the car fell apart out from under them.
Take the total loss payout and buy another car. Or take the payout and fix your car completely. These are your only options unless you prefer walking.
#15
you may have warmer dryer salt free weather, but you can have the friggin inspection ritual you guys have to go through. on the other hand, i'm gonna get a cali spec cat converter cause its made with better metal on the inside cause of your strict emission laws. o, and take the cash and go buy another max, you guys probably have a secret stash of them over there.
#16
you may have warmer dryer salt free weather, but you can have the friggin inspection ritual you guys have to go through. on the other hand, i'm gonna get a cali spec cat converter cause its made with better metal on the inside cause of your strict emission laws. o, and take the cash and go buy another max, you guys probably have a secret stash of them over there.
OP,
You know the history of your car. It has low mileage. I get it. If you plan to keep it for a long time and drive it into the ground, you're gonna have to let the whole salvaged title not bother you. It won't matter 5 or 10 years from now when the car is tired and ready for the boneyard. Get a new bumper cover, a new tailight, bang some metal to make things fit the best you can, and let the rest of the damage go.
Or just take all the money and let the car go. But then you never really know what you're getting next. You could wind up with another nice car (you could actually upgrade to a 5th gen with 4k), or you could wind up buying someone else's headache.
I don't think you're getting what I'm saying. You can't get the check, keep your car, and not have a salvaged title. As stated, you're gonna have to fight it by asking for a second or third opinion and hope the estimate comes in waaaay lower.
Last edited by The Wizard; 03-09-2015 at 03:10 AM.
#17
Are you the do it yourself type?
If yes, then I would -
1) Find a shop that likes to work for ca$h to do the body work at a lower cost than the insurance estimate. When you approach a body shop for an estimate, tell them this is a cash deal. We might have a member in your area who can recommend such a shop.
2) Get a bumper and tail light (the parts) from a salvage yard.
3) Get the car fixed at the shop in #1 and keep driving it until the wheels fall off or it gets hit again.
4) If your state has "Salvage Title" laws then I wouldn't worry about it. There must be many cars in the same situation that are still on the road.
I actually did that on the 95 Maxima with similar damage as your car damage before it was hit again for the total loss situation.
If yes, then I would -
1) Find a shop that likes to work for ca$h to do the body work at a lower cost than the insurance estimate. When you approach a body shop for an estimate, tell them this is a cash deal. We might have a member in your area who can recommend such a shop.
2) Get a bumper and tail light (the parts) from a salvage yard.
3) Get the car fixed at the shop in #1 and keep driving it until the wheels fall off or it gets hit again.
4) If your state has "Salvage Title" laws then I wouldn't worry about it. There must be many cars in the same situation that are still on the road.
I actually did that on the 95 Maxima with similar damage as your car damage before it was hit again for the total loss situation.
Last edited by CS_AR; 03-09-2015 at 05:31 AM.
#20
once again, i know warmer weather states can tape their bumper on, ( like florida ) and drive around w/o worry of inspection and i still don't understand it. they're not worried about some pos with bad brakes, tires, etc. slamming into another car and killing a family? seems a bit lenient/stupid to me.
#21
are u freaking kidding me? call that 3,900$ worth of damage? this is why good cars go to waste by insurance, but dude I would keep the car if u know it well, fix it up and drive like it never happened because if u decide to take the money and get rid of it, buy another used car you may end up in more headaches because you don't know the problems it may have, costing u more...
the only damage i see is the bumper/taillight, and your lucky the quarter panel barely got touched! but that small crease can be popped out while replacing the bumper. if the quarter panel was damaged badly..then yes your talking serious damages, but seriously a bumper and taillight damage? your kidding me right?
Or u can sell the car, test your luck and buy a good mileage 4th gen clean.. pay off the car, keep the rest of the cash for mods to make it look badass?? I don't kno but thats options you choose!
Personally if it were me, Since the car gave me good respect and no problems why get rid of it?? its clean, drives well, get the insurance money, FIX it and act like it never happened and don't worry about the "Salvage title" its only a problem if your going to sell the car... I drive the car until the wheels fall off..im never selling it. it makes 0% why people get rid of a good car, either get another used car or a new car and lose more money..new car = instantly lose $5k the 2nd mile you reach on the odometer. use the mind!
the only damage i see is the bumper/taillight, and your lucky the quarter panel barely got touched! but that small crease can be popped out while replacing the bumper. if the quarter panel was damaged badly..then yes your talking serious damages, but seriously a bumper and taillight damage? your kidding me right?
Or u can sell the car, test your luck and buy a good mileage 4th gen clean.. pay off the car, keep the rest of the cash for mods to make it look badass?? I don't kno but thats options you choose!
Personally if it were me, Since the car gave me good respect and no problems why get rid of it?? its clean, drives well, get the insurance money, FIX it and act like it never happened and don't worry about the "Salvage title" its only a problem if your going to sell the car... I drive the car until the wheels fall off..im never selling it. it makes 0% why people get rid of a good car, either get another used car or a new car and lose more money..new car = instantly lose $5k the 2nd mile you reach on the odometer. use the mind!
Last edited by JoshG; 03-09-2015 at 09:06 AM.
#22
I took some pictures from the inside of trunk and frame. See below.
http://postimg.org/image/vu1267snd/
http://postimg.org/image/4gqd1b8fh/
http://postimg.org/image/vu1267snd/
http://postimg.org/image/4gqd1b8fh/
#23
So it buckled a little. If you can live with the damages and a salvaged title Maxima, take the $$. I've already spelled out your options and some of the guys just echoed what I already said.
#24
i wouldn't worry about the inside, that looks like nothing to be honest... the quarter panel bent a little, thats okay that can be fixed.
with the miles, and how clean it is... take the money and fix it.
again salvage means nothing to the owner, only to the person buying.. its just a title.
with the miles, and how clean it is... take the money and fix it.
again salvage means nothing to the owner, only to the person buying.. its just a title.
#25
salvage means nothing to the owner, only to the person buying.. its just a title.
When the inspection is so crazy, and what when I end up to spend a lot of money for repairs to be able to use the car again although everything is running and in good condition.
#26
Ask if you can have the vehicle inspected prior to you making up your mind and striking a deal with the insurance company. Then you'll know what you're in for or not in for. If this isn't possible, you're gonna have to flip a coin and decide, or play the safe route and just let the car go and take the 4k.
#28
#29
I had Farmers insurance in California and was t- boned in my '84 vw rabbit. Axle was bent, tire was pushed into the shock, and whole quarter panel was crumpled. Car was definitely totaled, but I was given a check and kept my title. This was in 2006 or so.
Because it was a diesel and got 48mpg, I replaced the rear beam and kept driving it.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
Because it was a diesel and got 48mpg, I replaced the rear beam and kept driving it.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
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