Hey what's up members...I'm going to change my pulley and I wanted to know what is the beat and easiest way to remove that bolt for the crank pulley... Thanks for all the info given!

 

What I do is put a breaker bar on the bolt and then put the handle of the breaker bar on my hydraulic jack towards the front of the car. Then bump the starter for a quick second to turn it and it will come loose. Tightening it back down is the trickiest part at least for me. I use a chain wrench around the pulley with an old belt to protect the pulley to hold it in place while tightening.

 

If you have a powerful Impact setup, you most likely can gun it right off.

Last time I checked, ebay had the Dorman for less than $50 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Harmonic-Balancer-Dorman-594-188-/221363037388?hash=item338a43e4cc&vxp=mtr
While you have it off, don't forget to replace the front crank seal, and both belts as well!

Harbor Freight sells a Harmonic Balancer (pulley) remover for like $14 or so, if it gives you grief.

Good luck!

 

Unless you do a lot of work on cars, others as well as your own, and use it all the time, don't buy a puller. Rent one from your local auto parts store. You put down a deposit that is the price of the tool and when/if you return it, you get it all back. Rental ends up being ZERO.

 

+1 for this method. Breaker bar on the nut resting on the concrete, bump the starter very quickly and it will break loose for you.

 

Before I ask my question, remember if you don't choose to use the engine starter method, it shouldn't be assumed that everyone knows that there needs to be a wedge (a big screwdriver should work) in the flywheel teeth so the entire engine won't turn counterclockwise, which is a very bad thing. Be very careful not to try wedging the teeth of the timing ring, which is closer to the front as you look into the little access door.

My question has to do with just how tight that bolt is. I have tried both an impact wrench and a big honkin' breaker bar and it just doesn't want to come loose. I've tried bathing it in PB Blaster to no avail.

Also just to confirm that the bolt needs to be turned counterclockwise (normal "lefty loosey") to come off. That would seem to follow given the recommended engine starter method. It is also the direction shown in the factory shop manual.

In my case I would need to do some major back-tracking to use the starter bump method since I have a lot of other systems taken apart for different tasks. This should be easier than this!

 

Here's how I did it:



video: http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=dtqbm&s=8

Resting the bar directly on concrete didn't work for me, so I gave it some space to gather a bit of momentum. Someone here recommended this method. After removing the bolt, the pulley slides out easily.


Caution: Pull the fuel pump fuse and burn through the fuel in the line. You don't want your engine to start while doing this.

 

+1 - I've had to use the starter method on every Nissan Infiniti product that I own. Allowing the breaker bar to get up a little momentum is the trick.

 

Do you do anything to make sure the car doesn't start?

 

pull the sensors. Crank/cam..it won't fire.
And the threads are normal..left loose.

 

yes