Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Apologies guys but I'm frustrated and near wits end with this beautiful friggin car and I'd rather hear from you guys than to continue to mindlessly page through the FSM cuz at this point in my investigation if I have to so much as smell the pages of my Factory Service Manual for one more minute I fear I'll vomit.

Can you guys provide me with some info as to the locations of the engine and/or body grounds that, if corroded or otherwise compromised, would result in a "labored start" symptom?

I think I've been through every other G*d Damn system and either refurbished or replaced every G*d Damn part that might be the culprit except for this.

Your assistance and insight are greatly appreciated.

BTW ... this is the vehicle I'm almost ready to send to the crusher:

JoshG

damn what is the problem? I heard you have been having problems with it and cannot solve the problem, how many miles does it have now? yours Is in showroom condition and the red maxima is also rare... So that itself is very hard to get rid of..

PH98I30

When I had hard starting problems, it was dirty crank position sensors. I cleaned them with MAF cleaner and the hard starting disappeared.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Yeah ... since the injector failure and fix things have seemed to just cascade.

I want to ... and I will ... figure it all out, but it IS kinda defeating sometimes.

Fu**ing Jap cars!

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Cam and crank sensors (both) are brand new as is the alternator and coolant temp sensor.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

What engine mods? Possible vacuum issue? Fuel pump/filter? Check the wiring for the crank/cam sensors? Battery voltage? Any codes? 99s are notorious for coil/coil harness problems, possibly that? Cleaned TB/iacv? Longshot, but maybe the butterfly valves are buggered (if you still have them)?

Just spitballing here. I cant really help as far as grounds go because the previous owner put in a grounding kit, so theres grounds everywhere.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

None.

This my next step in investigating. I did replace a number of vac hoses/lines that, in my opinion don't really seem to to fit/connect as tightly as they should.

brand new fuel filter ... no indication that a fuel pump might be needed.

Done ... all looks very nice.

Battery voltage is (+/-) 12.80.

None.

I've no indication that this is the issue. Coil pack resistance tested fully withing acceptable ranges.

Yes.

Are you meaning the TB valve?

I AM the original owner ...

PH98I30

That's a beautiful car..... don't give in yet. You've really taken care of it.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The ground connection that is the most critical to the starting is the battery cable. It provides the 2 primary, main grounds.

The 1st one is the chassis ground. Follow the negative battery cable down from the battery and below the battery tray is a bracket on the cable that is bolted to the chassis. Since the chassis is painted, the actual ground contact is the threads of the bolt as it is screwed in the bolt hole. Clean the threads on the bolt and clean the threads in the nut that is in the chassis. If you want, remove the paint from the chassis that is under the bracket.

The 2nd is the end of the negative battery cable where it attaches to the engine. If your car is like my 97, the battery cable attached to a flimsy metal bracket that in turn attached to the engine block. There was nothing else on that bracket. I removed the bracket and attached the cable directly to the engine. Of course you want everything clean when you re-attach.

Another possible problem is the starter itself. It is a gear reduction type starter and uses a planetary gear set to accomplish the reduction. As the starter gets more use, the lubrication in the planetary gear set dries up and the gears bind, slowing the starter. You might call it labored starting or you might say it sounds like the battery is not fully charged.

You can open up the starter and lube the gear set, I use wheel bearing grease. But if the wear gets to be too much, lubing won't bring it back all the way.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Here's the locations for the GND wiring kits that Active Tuning makes



I made my own low gauge GND wires and mounted them in those locations. My NEG wire was originally connected to a bracket on the AT. I removed that rusty bracket and bolted my hand made NEG wire drirectly to the AT. For quick starting I added a 2AWG wire from the NEG wire on the AT directly to one of the starter mounting bolts.

EDIT: I also added a GND wire from the chassis near the coolant reservoir directly onto the alternator casing.

JoshG

but thing is when you find the problem, you wont be having problems for a looong time, since you replaced so much stuff. atleast look at it that way.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

is there a thread that details the problems you're having? sounds like you've been dealing with this for a while. what exact issues are you experiencing?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

I have apparently found the source of my starting issue ... the starter.

Who'da ever thought?

Lesson learned:

Trust your own instincts regardless of what the clowns and/or the testing equipment at the parts store tell you.

Prior to my initial whine-fest above I was convinced it was my starter. I removed it and took it in for testing ... it apparently and erroneously tested as good. That news sent me to the far corner of the garage for a good cry.

Did some more electrical testing this morning and re-confirmed that it really couldn't be anything else ... voltage voltage everywhere.

Said "F" it, went and bought a new one and voila.

Morpheus2010

iTrader: (2)

I have to say it, that car is beautiful!!! Damn now i actually want a 99 Sel when mine craps out finally. I keep looking at all the new cars and they don't really impress me apart from the audi A7 and tesla model S.
if you EVER thing about letting it go or sending it to the crusher please post it on the org first so someone can take care of that beauty, It looks brand new!! I got lucky with my 98 I was about to give up on it till I found an honest mechanic, yes I know its almost an oxymoron nowadays, But he only works on JDM cars, he pretty much saved my car from the junkyard, couldn't tell you the last time i saw a check engine light or had a breakdown.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

florida owned cars/ southeastern owned cars i spent a fortune on doing rust repair. damn salt don't you dare ever send that crismon red maxima to the crusher, eva!!!!

JoshG

wow the whole time it was the starter, how much did that end up costing you? guess who ever tested your starter gave false readings?

but whatever reason, dont you ever send that car to the crusher... that car is in rare condition. especially the Red, most red cars paint fade and just peel cause of the owner, but you...took very well care of that paint.

but even if the engine crap out, or something major were to happen... Don't get rid of it.. I say in my opinion, its well worth keeping that car and its condition, it looks way better than brand new cars today! so keep that car repaired and maintain that beauty!

If the body is in good condition, the paint is good, the interior good, under hood needs work.. Its well worth keeping and saves you money anyways!

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Glad to see you got that beautiful crimson blaze fixed.

If there's anything I've learned from these forums, when replacing the starter, ALT, coils, or thermostat, stick with OEM or a very good quality aftermarket piece, like NAPA. So many hit and miss stories here

ChemDog

iTrader: (1)

Was watching this thread and hoping the problem would be solved so the car wouldnt be sent to get crushed