Justin95SE

iTrader: (1)

wow that was not too hard at all. bolted on perfectly, love the new sound and feels like it pulls harder!!! Thanks Loren for the deal.

sil SE

iTrader: (21)

you did it yourself- any difficulties? did you use ramps ?

Justin95SE

iTrader: (1)

took lots of pictures, like to post a how 2 later. no difficulties at all, sprayed wd 40 on all bolts and let set for about an hour, used a breaker bar and no problems. putting on was 2x as easy as getting off. we used ramps and we had to go get a 10" extension wobbler, couldnt have done the job without that.

sil SE

iTrader: (21)

yeah id like to see a how to with your pics man, itll save a lotta money if i did it myself.
did you use sealant on the gaskets? i def. gotta see how you lined up the flanges while holding up the pipe and all those little details

95emeraldgxe

Justin95SE

iTrader: (1)

but really could have done it with 2, no sealant used, doh shoulda thought of that. the stillen was really easy because it mounted up by one bolt and then you could put the rest of it on, i think i might not have the greatest seals because there is some hissing but that seems to come out them muffler and nowhere else. thats what loren who i bought it from said it would sound like.

nigelcmf

I highly reccomend using some form of sealant. The highest temp one I have been able to find is only 650 F sealant. It's better than nothing and I've seen the muffler shops use it.

As far as fitting goes a Y pipe in general is pretty easy. I've said it before and I'll say it again.

Removal
1. Use WD40 - let it sit for a while
2. get extensions of different lengths and universal joint if you have one.
3. use impact sockets (I found this one out the hard way)
4. recommend monkey wrench for front O2 sensor
5. Tape up sensors when you take them out.
6. Spray more WD40 onto the nut threads (helps when putting them back on)

Fitting
1. slide cat flange on first
2. push up on the Y pipe to engage front flange and put one nut on to hold it up.
3. Wobble the mid section to get it onto the manifold studs
4. put the other nuts on (loosely)
5. Tighten each section progressively (don't tighten one nut all the way down) you may have the pipe slightly out of position and if you tighten down the pipe will remain in the wrong position and either rub on something or blow on one of the flanges.

45 minute job if you're slow and careful.

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

Loctite "blue" thread locker on all threads before reassembly might be a good idea, too.

(It's medium strength & will allow for later removal, if need be).

kvzeyde

I have never had trouble with exhaust system nuts and bolts coming loose--just the opposite. They tend to freeze up and be difficult to remove. I use anti-seize compound when I install exhaust systems.

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

I was going to mention that as well - you can actually use both at the same time. . . good idea.

nigelcmf

You don't need loctite threadlock. I forgot to mention, you can use anti seize on the O2 sensors. Don't really need anything on the flange nuts.

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

I admit it's a belt & suspenders approach, but to each his own. . .

nigelcmf

OK, but that's the way muffler shops do it ... just ask!

sil SE

iTrader: (21)

so overall who says its better to put it on yourself? who says take it to a shop? how much do they charge average-
i got ramps is that good enough?

guitaraus

Honestly dude...what was the point of that post?