97_GXE

Couldn't seem to find one. But my valve cover looks like oil is being pushed out all along the front. Anyone with any experience on this one? The gasket itself looks to sell for $54 so seems like a somewhat intense piece of work. Does it involve draining oil and removing spark plugs?

komik

You can get a valve cover gasket set on RockAuto for less than $54. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/n...r+gasket,10710

It is not necessary to drain the oil or remove the spark plugs. The spark plug tubes go through the valve covers. Each one has an o-ring seal that should be included with the gasket set. The front valve cover is pretty straightforward. The rear will require you to disconnect the EGR tube, throttle cables, etc. from the upper intake manifold and remove it.

This thread has some pics and recommends the use of an offset wrench on the EGR nuts: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...pair-info.html

CS_AR

The Fel Pro gaskets VS50494R in the link komik provided are the ones I use.

bvb_09

maxima297

I just did mine last week, following the instructions of Boredmdr on youtube. Make sure you've got some hi temp rtv. I would suggest labeling baggies of the bolts for which item they go to because sometimes it gets confusing where they all go. Also, take pictures of everything so that you know what goes where (this is especially important with the hoses and sensors). I also recommend replacing the egr gasket that goes to the manifold. Get some new fuel and vacuum hoses just in case, as well as plenty of clamps (a cheap "just in case" thing to have around). Do not over torque the valve cover bolts (I snapped one by not paying attention). I would replace the spark plugs, clean the iacv and throttle body while it's all apart. Wouldn't hurt to wipe down the inside of the valve covers either if they're dirty. If your gasket set doesn't come with the tube seals, I'd recommend getting those as well so you don't have to go back in there to replace them if you ever have an oil leak in the spark plug tubes.

Took me less than 4 hours to take apart and reassemble everything, and it was my first time removing the uim.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

This is the guide I used when I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 97. Lots of good pictures.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html

97_GXE

Thanks for the links. Idk though, I got an estimate from my mechanic for $250 yesterday. Of course both front and rear are seeping out. The rear is the worst. But even then I'm still short and have a long drive coming up.

I would tackle it myself but I just did the tranny flush and fill couple weeks ago. Kinda rather just have it done elsewhere. If I had a garage and could take my time doing it I would...but this parking lot stuff I feel like I have to get it done all in a day.

But the kit from advance auto is the full felpro set for front and rear and I can get it at a discount for less than $50. Kinda debating if I wanna spend all Sunday doing it lol.

CS_AR

This weekend I started another VC project to have the parts ready for the under UIM refresh. For this job, I will replace the left bank (front) gasket first. Then do the UIM and right bank gasket last.

I like to soak the covers in carb cleaner until I can remove all of the carbon deposits. Then follow up with a wash in some VM & P Naptha. I don't know if I have the time to polish these covers like the ones on Max III. I will take some steel wool and buff them to remove any oxidization.

theWalkinator

Front is easy, back is a PITA, mainly because you need to remove the 2 bolts in the back of upper intake manifold, there is no space there and you cannot see so you have to use your hand and feel. Also you need to remove the 2 bolts for EGR tube, and there is a 6" small coolant hose there too you need to remove. But it is doable with enough patience, just remember to change the metal intake gasket as well, and get a foot long coolant hose to replace the original 6" one, much easier to get back in. You might also want to use this opportunity to clean your EGR tube but at least you should replace the upper EGR tube gasket.

ugufru

This is a worthwhile DIY project, especially if you want some experience with intake disassembly. It will give you a lot of confidence regarding where everything is (for future reference) and also offers great access for cleaning up most of the engine and engine components. And with the valve covers completely off, you can really clean/polish them up. Don't forget to take a steel brush to your intake manifold! When you get it all put back together you won't believe how much newer it will all look, and all that smoke/smell/grime will be a thing of the past.

When you replace your gaskets, use thin rubber bands (along with a few spots of RTV) to hold it in place while positioning the covers. If you don't they are likely to slip out of place and kink when you tighten them down. Cut the rubber bands and pull them out before tightening, once the gasket is seated.

Also DON'T OVERTORQUE THE VALVE COVER BOLTS! It will be tempting to keep tightening them, but if you do you WILL strip the aluminum bolt holes. With RTV and a new gasket it doesn't need that much torque to prevent leaking. In fact, you don't even need all the bolts -- but the seal MUST BE GOOD. If you end up stripping the bolt holes, a EZ LOK repair kit will make them better than new (NAPA sells them).

Also a good time to replace hoses and clamps if yours are original. -pc

shilov

I have recently installed Fel Pro gaskets. They've designed their washers so you just tighten the bolts until you hit the washers. No need for the a torque wrench.

97_GXE

Following up to this thread: I ended up driving over 6,000 miles in the last couple months with my leaky valve cover gaskets. Of course, it didn't get better but I've kept oil handy as it's certainly going thru about a quart of oil now every 2,000 or so miles. Not good.

I'm just at odds as to whether to fix it myself or pay the $350-400 to fix it. This is crazy how much it is. I've already got 2 estimates for about the same. But the issue is my lower back has been giving me problems, as it has been for years. To where it's hard to get out of bed some days. So I can't really see myself standing over the car for 4-8 hours to get this done.

In addition, it's gotten cold and there isn't enough light out this time of year to do any work. I'm just all ****ed up in a dilemma. Only way I can fix it myself is to drive another 750 miles to Florida and work on it in my parents garage over Christmas. But even that I don't really wanna do because of my back.

But for the most part this is my most expensive emergency repair since motor mounts 2-3 years ago. I don't mind paying for it, but I'm feeling pressed and stressed for money and the bills keep coming in and I keep spending money on stupid **** and I have to go out of town next week and trying to keep enough money coming in.

I'm not spending any more money until I get this fix. I would love to do it myself, as all my work is perfect but I like to do straightforward tasks like swapping interior parts, coolant/transmission flushes, removing starters and radiators and such. When it starts looking too intricate, it can take me longer than I really want to spend on it.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Only you can decide. Based on the fact that it's too cold to work outside this time of year where you live, and your bad back, it sounds like paying to have it done may be the answer. Or, just keeping adding oil like you have been and fix it yourself come spring or summer. With any luck, your back will be better too by then.

The job is quit easy. Since it's your first time, it will take 4 to 6 hours I imagine.

97_GXE

I wish I could holdout on it, but the front VC is leaking oil down into my alternator and caking it up a little. Plus I think it's causing my car to run a bit over-temp. I was trying to see if they could replace the rear and then I replace the front later. But u know mechanics like to do the whole thing esp. Warranty purposes

The rear must have been leaking for a long time. Couple months ago I went and sprayed gunk engine degreaser to clean off the control arms and in the engine. Now it's right back on there.

What I will do, is once I get it fixed I have 2 bottles of engine degreaser and shine and just am going to get all the crude that's been left behind that's burning.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

The front valve cover is really easy! Maybe tackle that one now and do the rear in the spring/summer.

M in KC

^ What he sez. The front is a cake walk compared to the back. The back isn't that much more difficult you just have to remove more parts and pieces to access it. Remember it's just nuts and bolts. If you do end up doing both covers or even if you hire it out change the little "U" shaped coolant hose one the UIM when you have everything apart. No sense going back in for a coolant leak down the road. In the end it's still your call. Hope your back feels better for you soon.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

+1 to doing at least the front. You pop it right off theres nothing to it. Just make sure you get the mating surfaces nice and shiny clean - a brass or nylon brush would probably be best but i just used a rag with some degreaser on it and alot of elbow grease. Careful not to get any degreaser in your engine though. Also remember the corners on the passenger side need a dab of grey rtv (i suppose any color would work honestly) or they will seep oil since the gasket sits on a steep "slope" on those corners.

Really easy job, you will feel good about yourself having done it. However i feel you on having back problems and it being dumb cold out so understandable if you dont wanna deal with it. Youre looking at maybe two hours at most for the front and thats being liberal as possible.

97_GXE

The rear one can't wait much longer. That's the one really giving out. I had mentitled that to the mechs, but they were pressed on doing both at the same time...saying because if they fixed just the rear, the pressure could further push past the front? I try to not go back and forth too much and just let them say whatever. But I am quite convinced I know more about my car just from having worked/lived/slept on it enough, than them with their ASE certifications.

Honestly though, I'm probably gonna have no choice but to face the music and do it myself in my parents garage. $350 (another shop my barber recommended me to quoted $427) is just too much to spend this time of year, especially on a car with 316,000 miles. I work in a highly unpredictable job where i can make a lot, but then all of a sudden no money coming in for a week or 2. Hell, if it were up to me I'd drive uber or lyft. But your car can't be older than 10 years old with them. Sucks. Especially since I regularally do 1,000 mile trips.

Even if I come up with $350 to fix it, I'd have other bills coming in right behind it. I'm just tired of being in a financial jam and if I don't fix it myself, that'll just mess me up again.

If I get enough work between now and next Wednesday I'll pay them to fix it. But if not I'm just gonna have to do a long drive before it gets fixed.