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As some may know I was hesitant to do this, but I don't have $350-$400 to pay someone to do it...so I'd rather a couple days of discomfort versus a couple weeks/months of discomfort trying to rebound from the cost.
Anyhow, couple things that are befuddling me in this process: my plenum is fully loosened up now, but not fully removable. Should I have removed Fully unscrewed the spark boot connectors from between the intake manifold? I disconnected the connectors out and it looks like it should be able to slide thru those. But it's not coming out. Or is it just another hose, possibly the EGR?
Also I bought the EGR gasket, but I've not gotten to it yet. Videos I've seen looks like it should be "blocked" with gunk. But what I'm noticing from one of the lines is a charcoal like pellets coming out. Is that supposed to be there or do I empty them out?
When I did my 97 a few years ago, there were 2 things that hung me up. One was the support bracket towards the passenger side and the other was a small coolant hose on the driver's side.
I don't know what you mean by "spark boot connectors". I removed the ignition coils and there was no problem as a result.
Ok, I got it today. The EGR was toward the firewall. Cleaned it up. I actually lifted the plenum up sideways and flipped it to get to the small coolant hose. I see how mechanics handle engines, sometimes you just have to be a bit rough hazard.
I did left the manifold up between the boot connectors and pulled those out before I letter the valve cover.
So far thats about as far as I got. I messed up by applying RTV to the inside of the groove where the gasket goes, didn't know know that was not supposed to be there. I have to clean it all up.
I only applied rtv in the corners where the gasket not only turns but also goes downward. Haven't had any issues since, and it's been almost 3 months.
Did you change the spark plug seals while you were in there, or no?
Yeah I have a clip remover for car interiors that I used to pry the spark plug seals out with. I'm befuddled because looks like after 327,000 miles this rear valve cover has never been changed. The OEM tube seals are a little different.
I'm wondering if RTV is really necessary. Bought the valve cover and gasket inside tonight and spent like an hour cleaning off the "super tacky gasket sealant" I mistakenly applied in the groove where the gasket goes. But even if applied just to the outside, Just seems like RTV would prevent the cover from being closed all the way?
A small amount of RTV in the corners as shown in the FSM is all it takes to keep the VC gaskets from leaking over the long haul. We've seen cases where someone doesn't apply the RTV, then leaks start from the lower corner area.
As you can see the spark plug tubes have a tapered end at the top. Regardless of how the new seal may look compared to the old seal, there is a taper on the inner diameter area of the seal that should mate up against the taper on the tube. It's getting the tapered surface areas to mate up that is the most important thing to remember about the tube seals.
Its is possible the valve covers haven't been changed.
Hey, I need some help. I can't get my valve cover to go all the way down with the new gasket on there. Bu I notice on the front one that i haven't done yet, there's some gap between where the bolt goes. But it looks like on mine there's too much of a gap. Bolted them down in sequence which helped a little but it's still not touching?
Can't put my hands on the picture I want but the VC should not touch the head. There will be a gap and you can see the gasket from outside like you have in your picture. That's how mine looks.
Can't put my hands on the picture I want but the VC should not touch the head. There will be a gap and you can see the gasket from outside like you have in your picture. That's how mine looks.
Ok Thankyou...just seemed like it lined up with the old one. But I cleaned all the super tack sealant and bought a thing of aural permatex Rtv silicon. Hoping it works..The gasket is on good enough to where I was able to lift the valve cover off with the gasket still stuck to the head. Now for this hose, $18 at the dealer thinking of ordering since my ghetto rigg attempt at Ace didn't work out cause the hose didn't fit the ends
But they're talking about no getting the hose in until Tuesday. Ugh, I'm just glad my roommate is out of town or I'd be out of a car for a week...
That's exactly how mine looks, 97. As long as all the bolts are torqued down to spec, you're good to go. Same with the UIM gasket. As far as that PCV hose, I just used regular vacuum hose and I haven't had any trouble with it yet.
That's exactly how mine looks, 97. As long as all the bolts are torqued down to spec, you're good to go. Same with the UIM gasket. As far as that PCV hose, I just used regular vacuum hose and I haven't had any trouble with it yet.
Great. Too bad it started raining again so now day 4 I can't finish.
I just ordered the dealer hose piece, but now I think I might go to LKQ and find a junkyard piece. Assuming it doesn't crack upon removal. Just something else stupid to waste money on. Where did you buy your vacuum hose, did you need to clamp it down?
Good news...Went to the salvage yard and even though the selection was crap, found the hose I needed in like new condition off an i30 (those are always better maintained).
Then, I was able to put the entire plenum and accessories back together. So now that the hardest part is done, I just move on to the front VC and radiator fan then I'll be done.
But there's 1 thing: the EGR gasket I bought didn't match up. After going back a few steps to try and Rtv it on, it just didn't make sense. I don't recall a gasket actually being there either. Also...there's only 1 bolt back there on that said...same as when removed.
Is my engine destroyed if there's no gasket and only 1 bolt there? Also...what exactly passes thru there, oil or air?
Good news...Went to the salvage yard and even though the selection was crap, found the hose I needed in like new condition off an i30 (those are always better maintained).
Then, I was able to put the entire plenum and accessories back together. So now that the hardest part is done, I just move on to the front VC and radiator fan then I'll be done.
But there's 1 thing: the EGR gasket I bought didn't match up. After going back a few steps to try and Rtv it on, it just didn't make sense. I don't recall a gasket actually being there either. Also...there's only 1 bolt back there on that said...same as when removed.
Is my engine destroyed if there's no gasket and only 1 bolt there? Also...what exactly passes thru there, oil or air?
Sounds like you got the wrong gasket if it doesn't line up. It should line up perfectly. This has happened to me before when ordering this specific gasket from Nissan. Sometimes I get the right one, sometimes I don't.
You need two bolts to secure the EGR properly, and IIRC, they have these weird spacers too.
exhaust gas gets recycled through it for a second attempt to get burned properly for emission purposes.
Sounds like you got the wrong gasket if it doesn't line up. It should line up perfectly. This has happened to me before when ordering this specific gasket from Nissan. Sometimes I get the right one, sometimes I don't.
You need two bolts to secure the EGR properly, and IIRC, they have these weird spacers too.
exhaust gas gets recycled through it for a second attempt to get burned properly for emission purposes.
Ah, maybe the gasket I got were for the lower bolts. I didn't take the time to remove the whole EGR valve, partially because I didn't realize what was happening until I put it back together. I cleaned the ports as best as possible so hopefully it helps.
The two EGR gaskets are different. Sounds like you got the lower but needed the upper. The gasket should match the profile of the upper EGR tube if not, no dice. Happy for you for your progress brother you are almost home!
That is the gasket you need. I made the same mistake as you and brought home the wrong gasket at first. If you're going to the junkyard, you should pocket the 2 bolts and weird spacer things for that part of the egr valve off another maxima.
I got the hose at Napa. I believe it's just a 3/4" vacuum hose. I'm not at work to be able to look up what I bought back in October when I did the job.
For the vacuum hose between the valve covers, I used an ArmorAll brand 15/32" PCV hose I got at Autozone. It's been fine for 2 years now, no clamps used.
Hey everyone...I just want to say THANKYOU THANKYOU EVERYONE for giving me the confidence to do this!!! Took me 5 days, (mainly due to weather, time, and runs for tools) but I completed my front and rear valve cover job yesterday plus a new fan motor and oil change.
I feel bad that I wasted a couple mechanic's time by getting quotes...but I'm actually glad I did it myself versus trust an off brand or "all makes, all models" shop to do it (not that those are bad, but) This was an extremely delicate job and the further I got along, the more I realized I should vet places before assigning someone to such expensive engine projects. My car would have likely been in the shop for more than a day and I'd probably get charged more for hoses and such and been shocked by the final bill.
With the exception of a couple guys I knew who worked out of home...I hate auto repair shops with a passion and would rather do it myself anytime.
Before this, I didn't know how to access my spark plugs. I couldn't find the Pcv valve. And I didn't know an EGR valve existed. Plus I got to inspect my valves and clean behind my throttle body. Also reconditioned each hose with a leather cleaner to prevent dry rot. All my engine hoses were in great shape except that 1 breather hose.
Wish I would have pulled the EGR valve and cleaned it up a bit better but I spent 4 days just on the rear valve cover stuff...and i just didn't wanna get stuck on anything else. Maybe next time I'm in a garage space I'll look it. May even just buy a new one.
I'm just a little iffy about the RTV application. I read Fel-Pro permadry gaskets strongly advise against RTV. I didn't read that until after I already glued the rear gasket. However, I used clear silicone and just a thin strip all the way around on each gasket. It wasn't perfect, but I tried not to get it sloppy. Hoping nothing leaks but so far no more burnt smells.
Congrats on a job well done! A lot of people would have thrown in the towel and braced themselves for a massive bill at a shop. Now you have a better idea of how the innards of your car works, and you may not be so shy to delve in, in the future.
01-12-2017, 09:32 PM
