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Painting My Max: Need Help

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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 12:53 PM
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Painting My Max: Need Help

I hope there is someone here who knows about auto paint/painting?

I am going to do this on my own. Sounds crazy, but, I am going to do it. I am already building a makeshift booth on the side of my house.

I need help on exactly what type of paint and how much to buy. Who should I stay away from, what brands are best, which are crap.

I am painting it white... so the base color will be white, I know this much. I am also painting the Hood black, as well as the gas fill cover.
I am going to put a pearl clear coat over it... something like a green to red, or gold to red....light... not heavy. And want to finish it off with at least 3-5 coats of clear....

I need to know mostly who or what to stay away from. And which products can be trusted.
Old Feb 28, 2017 | 01:57 PM
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You should go to a junk yard, and buy a door or a hood, and practice before the real thing. You may decide that you have bitten off much more than you can chew. Painting is not easy unless you have good equipment and someone to guide you.

But, show us the photos when you are done. Oh, the pearl coat is probably making the job 3-4 time harder. You may want to start with a one color paint first.

What makes you think you can do a good job ? Have you ever watched someone paint ? Maybe you can go to a car repair place and ask if you can shadow someone first. You maye een have to offer them some ca$h for this opportunity. But beware, they will make it easy, but it isn't. Trust me on this one.
Old Feb 28, 2017 | 06:06 PM
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Look into plasti dipping. It's easier to go that route instead of regular painting. The whole thing really got insane. You can give it a glossy coat and make it look factory if you wanted..
Old Feb 28, 2017 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RealityCheck
Look into plasti dipping. It's easier to go that route instead of regular painting. The whole thing really got insane. You can give it a glossy coat and make it look factory if you wanted..
The whole car??
Old Mar 1, 2017 | 04:33 AM
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My opinion on DIY auto painting by those are not paint and body professionals?

... have it painted by someone who is a paint and body professional ...
Old Mar 1, 2017 | 04:53 AM
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Do you own an air compressor of at least 30 gallons, a DA sander, and a paint gun? Those are just the main tools needed. Getting to known how to set and utilize the particular paint gun you purchase also takes time and skill.

If you don't have those tools nor skills then it will cost less to have an autbody shop paint it.

Prepping the car (wax removal, sanding, taping...) also is more time consuming than painting it.

I've fully painted 4 vehicles. The first one, my 1998 maxima, took 10x longer due to the rust and getting the skills to properly set and utilize my new $350 Devilbiss paint gun.

Last edited by jholley; Mar 1, 2017 at 05:20 AM.
Old Mar 1, 2017 | 05:42 AM
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Yeah the whole car. Go on YouTube and look for dipyourcar.
Old Mar 1, 2017 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rit
What makes you think you can do a good job ? Have you ever watched someone paint ? Maybe you can go to a car repair place and ask if you can shadow someone first. You maye een have to offer them some ca$h for this opportunity. But beware, they will make it easy, but it isn't. Trust me on this one.
Duuuude! Cause my dad has an EXcellent set of tools!!

Just kidding.

Guys. I am not a new hand at doing restorations, rebuilding or customizing cars.
True... This is my first Nissan Maxima. And I love it.
Anyone who read my thread linked in my signature will remember that I said I am going to do ALL work on my Max. I have done all the body work myself, interior, engine work, suspension....everything.
I have never painted a car, this is also true.
But I am going to. I plan to do a few practice runs on a tailgate and 2 doors I have in my back yard.
So instead of the nay saying and advice to have a pro do it, let me stop you there. I am going to do it.
If I screw up, I screw up. I will take it off, sand her down....and do it again.
This is why I chose white as my base color.

As for the pearl clear coat? I have done this a few times on bicycles and once on trailer someone made out of an old truck bed.

So the answer is this... there is NOTHING I can't do if I put my mind to it. Nothing at all.
At almost 50 years old, I have lived most of my life like that....

Besides... If I do it and it turns out nice? How many of you might try it yourselves? And then find out it wasn't as hard as you thought???

As for spray guns?? I have an Iwata 9232 (1.8 tip) for the primer and a SATAjet NR-95 for the base and clear...

And tools.... I have a **** ton of tools....a 10 gallon, a 20 gallon and a 25 gallon stand alone compressor. My DeVilbiss 20 gallon can handle 6.1 CFM at 40 PSI by itself.

I still have a bit of body work left to do... and I am still looking into some better heat lamps...which are all too damned pricey...but, once I am done...I will post the pics up.

Last edited by SneakyBastard; Apr 4, 2017 at 11:54 AM.
Old Mar 1, 2017 | 03:06 PM
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^^^

Now that we know Sneaky has the tools and experience I'll add some tips. I've seen noobs create threads thinking they can walk out of an auto store with a can of paint and have their maxima looking brand new the next day.

Use urethane paint for both the base coat and clear coat. One stage urethane will fade away quicker. Acrylic is less durable so will crack easier. SW and PPG both make good quality auto paints. I've had NAPA mix a few cans and both gave a dull finish.

Your HVLP guns have to be well efficient to handle only 6.1 CFM at 40 PSI. My DeVilbiss paint gun needs 14CFM at 40 PSI that my DeVilbiss 60 gallon compressor spits out.
Old Mar 3, 2017 | 05:14 PM
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We have some Maaco locations that actually know how to spray really well. The rest of their work is usually disappointing. Some branches suck at everything so find out if any near you spray well. They usually have very decently priced packages.

Then just prep it to pre-paint perfection. If this is your first, they will do a much better job, even if you practice on smaller items. Spraying a whole car is a different animal than a hood or door. Nothing replaces experience for the best process management. Once the paint(s) is mixed, you have X amount of work time and mistakes get costly.

Just my idea on how I'd get it done without costing too much, and less chance of mistakes. Unless of course, you want to start painting a line of cars over the next few years. Which looks like fun with the restores they do on Overhaulin and the likes!
Old Mar 3, 2017 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by KP11520
We have some Maaco locations that actually know how to spray really well. The rest of their work is usually disappointing. Some branches suck at everything so find out if any near you spray well. They usually have very decently priced packages.

Then just prep it to pre-paint perfection. If this is your first, they will do a much better job, even if you practice on smaller items. Spraying a whole car is a different animal than a hood or door. Nothing replaces experience for the best process management. Once the paint(s) is mixed, you have X amount of work time and mistakes get costly.

Just my idea on how I'd get it done without costing too much, and less chance of mistakes. Unless of course, you want to start painting a line of cars over the next few years. Which looks like fun with the restores they do on Overhaulin and the likes!
The main reason it took so long to paint my 1998 maxima is I was going thru training. Cannot recall how many times I re-sanded those left doors and painting them over and over. Mixing the paint correctly, spraying it before it hardens, compressor setting, HVLP paint gun volume and pressure setting, distance from the vehicle, speed & flow patterns....all takes practice.
Old Mar 3, 2017 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jholley
The main reason it took so long to paint my 1998 maxima is I was going thru training. Cannot recall how many times I re-sanded those left doors and painting them over and over. Mixing the paint correctly, spraying it before it hardens, compressor setting, HVLP paint gun volume and pressure setting, distance from the vehicle, speed & flow patterns....all takes practice.

That is about as real as it gets! And in my experience, words to live by!

Thanks jholley as usual!
Old Mar 10, 2017 | 07:55 PM
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If I were to paint my car here in FL, I would use high heat engine enamel! The metal could get up there to 200 degrees Fahrenheit! I know it sound unbelievable but it could!
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by jholley
^^^

Now that we know Sneaky has the tools and experience I'll add some tips. I've seen noobs create threads thinking they can walk out of an auto store with a can of paint and have their maxima looking brand new the next day.

Use urethane paint for both the base coat and clear coat. One stage urethane will fade away quicker. Acrylic is less durable so will crack easier. SW and PPG both make good quality auto paints. I've had NAPA mix a few cans and both gave a dull finish.

Your HVLP guns have to be well efficient to handle only 6.1 CFM at 40 PSI. My DeVilbiss paint gun needs 14CFM at 40 PSI that my DeVilbiss 60 gallon compressor spits out.
Thank you jHolley. That was what I was looking for. When you say One Stage Urethane fades quicker, but to use urethane... I really only see single stage urethane and "acrylic urethane" when shopping for colors. Meaning when I look for urethane....not that these are the only types I find.
I am planning on using Championship White as the base coat and then a pearled clear coat. Followed by a clean clear coat.
House of Kolor is outrageous in pricing... but I have found other places to sell the same color.
Anyone have any idea of who to stay away from? What brands or companies NOT to trust?
My local automotive paint shop is helpful, but, very pricey and tend to push me towards the top end of everything. So I am leery of their advice.
And for my air, I have 2 compressors linked together and running into one line with an air desiccant drier. Digital pressure gauge at the gun. One devilbiss 22 gallon (20 gallon) and a harbor freight 25 gallon stand up compressor. Both running on separate circuits so I don't blow any breakers...lol

Last edited by SneakyBastard; Apr 4, 2017 at 11:53 AM.
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by KP11520
We have some Maaco locations that actually know how to spray really well. The rest of their work is usually disappointing. Some branches suck at everything so find out if any near you spray well. They usually have very decently priced packages.

Then just prep it to pre-paint perfection. If this is your first, they will do a much better job, even if you practice on smaller items. Spraying a whole car is a different animal than a hood or door. Nothing replaces experience for the best process management. Once the paint(s) is mixed, you have X amount of work time and mistakes get costly.

Just my idea on how I'd get it done without costing too much, and less chance of mistakes. Unless of course, you want to start painting a line of cars over the next few years. Which looks like fun with the restores they do on Overhaulin and the likes!
Originally Posted by jholley
The main reason it took so long to paint my 1998 maxima is I was going thru training. Cannot recall how many times I re-sanded those left doors and painting them over and over. Mixing the paint correctly, spraying it before it hardens, compressor setting, HVLP paint gun volume and pressure setting, distance from the vehicle, speed & flow patterns....all takes practice.
All very valuable pieces of info. I am sure I am bound to make mistakes. It is inevitable. But I am determined. One of the things I need to do just so I can say I did it. But that is why I come here for advice, guys. I have yet to find a spot that has as many knowledgeable people that are actually willing to take the time and help...instead of giving condescending remarks and full blown "I am greater than you!" attitudes.
You all are real, down to earth folks... my kinda peoples!! Lol!
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SneakyBastard
Thank you jHolley. That was what I was looking for. When you say One Stage Urethane fades quicker, but to use urethane... I really only see single stage urethane and "acrylic urethane" when shopping for colors. Meaning when I look for urethane....not that these are the only types I find.
I am planning on using Championship White as the base coat and then a pearled clear coat. Followed by a clean clear coat.
House of Kolor is outrageous in pricing... but I have found other places to sell the same color.
Anyone have any idea of who to stay away from? What brands or companies NOT to trust?
My local automotive paint shop is helpful, but, very pricey and tend to push me towards the top end of everything. So I am leery of their advice.
And for my air, I have 2 compressors linked together and running into one line with an air desiccant drier. Digital pressure gauge at the gun. One devilbiss 22 gallon (20 gallon) and a harbor freight 25 gallon stand up compressor. Both running on separate circuits so I don't blow any breakers...lol
Single stage urethane is the basecoat and clearcoat premixed together. It saves time but with less layers it won't last as long.

The basecoat paint I got at NAPA was maybe sitting for years and partially dried up. SW supplies their paint so purchasing directly from a SW automotive paint store will save you money.
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 05:29 AM
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Ok. Good info on the single stage urethane. I didn't know this.
There is a local color shop here in town called BZ Auto Color. They have a ton of paint in stock and if they don't have it, they can get it.
The reason I was asking about what brands I can trust and which to steer clear of is because I am a cheap bastard.
BZ can get me anything I can imagine, but, just a can of high/low spot finish primer is $29.00 a spray can... 3M masking tape? 1 roll, 5/8" is $7.99. I can get the same roll for $3.99 at Home Depot. So buying 2 or 3 gallons of base and then another 2 or 3 gallons of clear coat from them?? I'd have to sell my car to pay for the paint!
Buying online is the only option realistically. Even then, PPG is fairly reasonable at around $60 a gallon. Can't remember what the price for clear was but it was also reasonable at just a bit more than the base would cost me.
So I was asking so I do not buy some crap paint online and get stuck with it just because I am a cheap bastard! Lol!!

By the way. @RealityCheck...

I did do some googling and youtubing about PlastiDipping the car. I didn't know you could do that! They even make a plasti dip high gloss clear coat AND you can add pearl to it! Interesting idea..... Not so sure I trust myself to do the job properly though. No experience what so ever. Most I have done is dipped my wrenches with black and I bought a can of spray plasti dip translucent smoke to test out on my tail lights.....it was on sale for like $4 so I said what the hell.....it looked like crap though.

Thanks guys....
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 05:55 PM
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You'll only need 2 quarts each of unmixed basecoat and clearcoat paints. These paints need to be mixed 50/50 with thinners so each will total to 1 gallon. One gallon will cover more than enough to paint the A32.

I wouldn't risk purchasing paint on the internet. I like to check what will be covering my entire A32.

Buy 3M painter's tape. It has more adhesive than Duck brand paint tape.

Last edited by jholley; Apr 11, 2017 at 05:57 PM.
Old Apr 20, 2017 | 04:45 PM
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Ok... good to know. That brings the price down considerably. I plan on going to BZ next week and start pricing paint and supplies.
If everything goes to plan, I should start the process by middle May... beginning of June. Still have a huge project underway (Dodge Hemi rebuild), but, hope to have it finished by the end of next week.




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