Feed My Frankenstein
06-01-2017, 02:27 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 28
Feed My Frankenstein
I purchased a '96 Maxima off of my brother a year ago to use as a daily driver. I had a '92 GXE autotragic years ago and a 4th gen, manual SE was my dream car back then. So I jumped at the opportunity to own one of JD Power and MotorTrend's most-awarded cars of the 90s.
It's needed a little TLC although the VQ motor can take a beating, even at 21 years old. The alignment sags slightly to the right (passenger side) and the car has the usual JDM rust spots around the doors and rear wheel areas of the body. The rear shocks were shot and my brother had purchased new replacements during his ownership, but never installed. So those were the first parts I put on the car. It no longer looks like a Lincoln Towncar or Cadillac with blown rear air suspension ghetto cruiser... although it was a lot of fun bouncing around with the worn shocks.
It had usual Nissan parking brake wear where one of the cables must have rusted/locked up and a previous owner disengaged the whole assembly from the rear brakes (I did this on my '92, so I already knew the drill). Maybe not an issue for autotragic as one can put the car in park and lock the axle, but parking on a hill is a bit of a gamble without parking brake. So I re-attached the one side that was working... just to have some brake.
Also replaced the blown stock speakers.
Replaced the MAS last summer because the car was hesitating under WOT.
Replaced the radiator which was cracked when I bought it. When the radiator finally went, the car overheated for a few minutes of driving and scorched the water pump coolant seal which caused leak from the weep hole. So I replaced the pump and seals just to be safe.
I have a pretty nice "other" ride, but this car has become a bit of a project for me because- I think we all can agree- it's a classic and the motors seem to run forever. I drive about 60 miles a day round trip to work and back, so the small investments have been worth it to me since the motor is diehard and will likely outlast the rusting body.
A few questions as I am sure there are common issues with these cars:
Small oil leak coming from the engine where I can't see. Adding a quart of oil every month to keep it topped off. Probably from the timing cover or another seal?
Power steering fluid is leaking a little. I put a few bottles in every year. Is this a common issue with a seal on the steering gear? Or just a sign of a past curb collision with previous owner?
As I mentioned, the alignment naturally pulls the car slightly to the right, even with best, straight alignment performed. I did find that I was able to remove the stabilizer bushing from the bar and control arm- is this the likely culprit? I ordered some replacements to throw in on both sides as I noticed driver's side stabilizer bushing is about done as well.
I don't seem to have ABS on this car. Very dangerous to stop in the rain or snow; probably the worst brakes I have ever had on a car. Period. Is this common?
A relay box- between the driver's side headlight and battery- seems to have caught fire and melted at some point in the past. Any ideas why/what this controls?
It's needed a little TLC although the VQ motor can take a beating, even at 21 years old. The alignment sags slightly to the right (passenger side) and the car has the usual JDM rust spots around the doors and rear wheel areas of the body. The rear shocks were shot and my brother had purchased new replacements during his ownership, but never installed. So those were the first parts I put on the car. It no longer looks like a Lincoln Towncar or Cadillac with blown rear air suspension ghetto cruiser... although it was a lot of fun bouncing around with the worn shocks.
It had usual Nissan parking brake wear where one of the cables must have rusted/locked up and a previous owner disengaged the whole assembly from the rear brakes (I did this on my '92, so I already knew the drill). Maybe not an issue for autotragic as one can put the car in park and lock the axle, but parking on a hill is a bit of a gamble without parking brake. So I re-attached the one side that was working... just to have some brake.
Also replaced the blown stock speakers.
Replaced the MAS last summer because the car was hesitating under WOT.
Replaced the radiator which was cracked when I bought it. When the radiator finally went, the car overheated for a few minutes of driving and scorched the water pump coolant seal which caused leak from the weep hole. So I replaced the pump and seals just to be safe.
I have a pretty nice "other" ride, but this car has become a bit of a project for me because- I think we all can agree- it's a classic and the motors seem to run forever. I drive about 60 miles a day round trip to work and back, so the small investments have been worth it to me since the motor is diehard and will likely outlast the rusting body.
A few questions as I am sure there are common issues with these cars:
Small oil leak coming from the engine where I can't see. Adding a quart of oil every month to keep it topped off. Probably from the timing cover or another seal?
Power steering fluid is leaking a little. I put a few bottles in every year. Is this a common issue with a seal on the steering gear? Or just a sign of a past curb collision with previous owner?
As I mentioned, the alignment naturally pulls the car slightly to the right, even with best, straight alignment performed. I did find that I was able to remove the stabilizer bushing from the bar and control arm- is this the likely culprit? I ordered some replacements to throw in on both sides as I noticed driver's side stabilizer bushing is about done as well.
I don't seem to have ABS on this car. Very dangerous to stop in the rain or snow; probably the worst brakes I have ever had on a car. Period. Is this common?
A relay box- between the driver's side headlight and battery- seems to have caught fire and melted at some point in the past. Any ideas why/what this controls?
Last edited by 4thGenTimeWarp; 06-01-2017 at 02:30 PM.
06-02-2017, 01:08 PM
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 28
I almost forgot: I also immediately replaced the blower motor resistor. Also had to make a custom bracket for the license plate since the mounting points on the body rusted through.
I also immediately reattached the spoiler since the mounting points had rusted through. Used some 3M tape and adhesive bond.
These cars remind me of the Chameleon XLE.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...tuP7BzJCtIt2oQ
I also immediately reattached the spoiler since the mounting points had rusted through. Used some 3M tape and adhesive bond.
These cars remind me of the Chameleon XLE.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...tuP7BzJCtIt2oQ
Last edited by 4thGenTimeWarp; 06-02-2017 at 01:11 PM.
06-08-2017, 10:58 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 28
I will check out what I can of the oil pan. It seems likely as it comes from both sides very low and is not observed higher up on the motor. The biggest problem is the front wheel drive and all of the stuff crammed in the way. Leaks always come from hard-to-get-to spots, usually because nobody was able to get to them to fix them in the first place and they just get worse.
Other items replaced were the knock sensor and EGR solenoid.
Like driving a brand new, old car in a lot of ways. Starter and alternator seem to be OEM. Battery is 9 years old.
Japanese guys at work called my car "Omboro" Maxima, which apparently translates to "old/noisy" in Japanese or something. But that was before I had the exhaust leak welded. They/we are owned by Toyota, so I told them they are just jealous.
Other items replaced were the knock sensor and EGR solenoid.
Like driving a brand new, old car in a lot of ways. Starter and alternator seem to be OEM. Battery is 9 years old.
Japanese guys at work called my car "Omboro" Maxima, which apparently translates to "old/noisy" in Japanese or something. But that was before I had the exhaust leak welded. They/we are owned by Toyota, so I told them they are just jealous.
06-08-2017, 03:00 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 472
The lower oil pan rarely leaks. You cannot see the UOP leak without removing everything. If oil is dripping next to the oil filter and Crank position sensor and a little around the RMS, its probably the upper pan. Its a common problem on these engines after 100K or so. Mine started leaking at 120K.