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97 maxima gle tach gauge gone haywire.

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Old Jul 26, 2017 | 11:07 AM
  #1  
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97 maxima gle tach gauge gone haywire.

can someone tell me about these gauges, do they short out and do this or is the tach just worn out, car has 156,350 miles on it and still runs and drives fantastic.
Old Jul 26, 2017 | 12:57 PM
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You have not told us what your guages are doing, or not doing.

There is no way we can help you unless you tell us.

The forum has an area called Stickies. Also a Search feature. The guages are a knon issue, with known repairs.

Do some research. This has been discussed many times in the past.

You might need to replace a sensor, you might need to solder a printed circuit board on the tach.
Old Jul 26, 2017 | 06:11 PM
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97 maxima gle tach gauge

sorry for not giving enough information for you to analyze my problem,my tach gauge goes all the way over to max and then on it's own it will return back to normal but at times goes to 5,000 rpm at idle and it is just all over the place at most times,today it was back to normal at startup then after driving a few miles it went back to 8,000 rpm and stayed for a few minutes and as usual returned back to normal,when i shut the car off it went back to 8,000 rpm , any ideas ?
Old Jul 26, 2017 | 06:34 PM
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Could be your vss (vehicle speed sensor) or a bad solder joint on the tach.
Old Jul 26, 2017 | 06:53 PM
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ok will check the speed sensor, thank you for your advice.
Old Jul 28, 2017 | 08:35 PM
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This problem sounds familiar it happened to me. I had to replace the plastic circuit board that's mounted on the back of the gauge cluster. Pull out gauge cluster look on the back you will see it.
Old Jul 28, 2017 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vqmaxman
This problem sounds familiar it happened to me. I had to replace the plastic circuit board that's mounted on the back of the gauge cluster. Pull out gauge cluster look on the back you will see it.
The areas which need solder are on either side of the screws which attach the tach to the instrument panel.

The tach and instrument panel vibrates and rattles as the car goes down the road. Eventually metal fatigue breaks the solder joint. I fixed mine by re melting the existing solder until it would flow again. I added some rosin core electrical solder as needed.




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