DizzyEdge

So everytime I start my maxima it's totally different.

Cranks 5 times then starts
Cranks 15 times then stumbley starts
Starts almost instantly
Cranks very slow for, maybe 2 revolutions in 1 second, then fast for 5 revolutions then starts
Starts almost instantly.

Those have been my past 6 starts.

What would be the best way to diagnose this, or easy and cheap things to try blindly, that are unlikely to make things worse.

Particularly the one where it cranked very slow concerns me, last year it did that and then just stopped cranking. As of this morning I decided to hook up a my multimeter to the battery to see the voltage drops. Of course it started faster than it ever has for once. Voltage dropped from 12.3 to 10.9 during that 1 second start, not sure if that's bad or within spec.

Thanks

Zerodrag

iTrader: (1)

When my starter started to spin slower over time i thought it was due to an old battery. When after swapping to a new one, it still had the same issue and after a short time until it stopped cranking eventually on start up. Turned out my starter was going bad gradually (requiring more voltage to spin). Replaced starter and all symptoms disappeared.

This is in regard to slow cranking issue, and not long cranking with no ignition.

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

Clean your from crank sensor (ie. the crankshaft position sensor (REF)). It may have oil and road debris on it affecting the signal each time the flywheel pulley teeth spin over it. Easy to do. Jack car, remove front passenger tire, remove plastic cowling, remove two 10 mm bolts and a wire clip. Remove sensor, clean, reinstall, check starting. Cheapest and easiest thing to do. Good luck.

DizzyEdge

Perfect, I will definitely try this. Any other sensors you can think of that might need a cleaning which specifically affect starting? Once started the engine runs smooth. There is a slight 'miss' during idle, but not enough to move the tach needle at all, I can just slightly feel it.

PH98I30

I had a slight miss like that for 3 months, then finally a coil pack went out. Keep a spare with you.

DizzyEdge

Thanks for reminding me, I'm sure sometime in the past couple of years a coil pack code ended up in the ECU, but it's gone now and I forget which. There's probably one barely in spec. Wonder if it's worth trying to identify.

JvG

You might consider check the fuel pressure.

Especially if re starts after a short period of time without problem. And also if the hard starting occurs after an hour or so, or overnight.

Possible causes of low fuel pressure are the fuel pressure regulator or the injectors cracking at the pintil cap.

CS_AR

Excellent points JVG.. A leaking injector could be behind the miss Dizzy noted below.

DizzyEdge

Curious, if the fuel pressure was an issue would turning the ignition to ON for a few seconds before starting tend result in consistently better starts?

JvG

Because the fuel pump activates to pressurize the system.

This tells me that your fuel pressure is low for some reason.

I think that you might have better results if you turn the key to the on position, then to accessory position more than once.

If you do have better starts this way, a fuel pressure issue is very likely.

Some auto parts stores rent fuel pressure testing equipment.

You might have a bad fuel pressure regulator, but many members have had leaky injectors.

If the injectors leak, the unburned gasoline can roast your cat.

DizzyEdge

Cool, I should clarify that I haven't been turning it to ON for a few seconds before, just curious if that would be a good thing to test. I'll start doing that for a few days and see what happens.

DizzyEdge

Update: The car started every time for over 4 months, although it ranged from the VERY occasional instant start, to random amounts of fast, medium, and slow cranking.
Then a few weeks ago I was doing an oil change and crankshaft pos sensor swap and afterwords, no start, no crank, no click.
Messed around for about 20 mins, the whacked the solenoid with an axe handle and boom, it started.
Replaced the starter last weekend and now it consistently starts almost instantly.

I also replaced the knock sensor (what a pain, only one cut though!) and that code is finally gone for the first time since I've owned the car. I'm guessing Canadian Maximas are configured the same as California, but I'm not 100% sure.